Tricky Dicky
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Posts posted by Tricky Dicky
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Apologies if someone has mentioned this already in the 26 pages of posts but can it be possible to restore the one button press to get you back to the home page.
Richard
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Are we still "decision pending" on this matter as well as the related Computer Control placement, or is it no change?
Richard
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A 40 - 60W soldering station with temperature control should see you right for all you are considering. As someone has already mentioned it is a load of b*****ks that you cannot fine solder with a high power iron as long as you can fit different tips you can solder whatever. On the subject of tips do look at how easy it is to swap tips some can be a right mare after a few heat cycles and oxidation has taken place.
Richard
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Thanks for the response, I am minded to simply check the ampage of the 16V output of the Duette and, assuming it delivers around what the lights require, simply attach the lights direct to the Duette to see what happens. That said, having considered this over the last week or two and because I require other lighting at Crianlarich for the tearoom, signal box and yard lights, the Just Play system is looking like the safest option.
The amperage of the circuit will depend on the current draw of what is wired to the power supply, I.e, a single LED with suitable resistor will draw say 10mA. For any given power supply there is a maximum output, I do not know what that maximum is for your Duette but there should be a plate on it that should give you that information. It is not a good idea to operate your power supply at maximum over a protracted time and it is advisable to leave a little head room. If you can find out what the current draw of your lamps is then if they are wired in parallel all you need to do is add their values up to find out the the total current draw. As examples normal LEDs depending on colour will draw between 10-30mA whilst grain of wheat bulbs I believe draw about 80mA, low current LEDs can be as low as 2mA.
Richard
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I have bought some Salecom T80-T toggle switches fairly common in most model shops.. I do not want to solder wires to each terminal, so can anyone advise what size crimp slide on connector I require? My local railway shop sold me Peco PL31 but these are too tight to slide onto termminal.
Any advice or or a supplier name would be much appreciated.
I cannot understand why you do not want to solder them on, it's going to give you the most secure connection.
Richard
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Not having visited this topic much since my last post I did not realise what a lively debate ensued. In my original post I was careful not to suggest that Automation & Computer Control was put into the DCC section as there is no reason why a DC layout can not be controlled by computer although most equipment and software available is targeted at DCC systems. Also quite a few DC layouts demonstrate automation using readily available kit.
My main aim was to establish a single point where these two related topics could be dealt within a single sub forum and not as now across several sub forums. Also without actually saying it, I was making the same point as Iain that the present computer control forum was not getting much action tucked away as it is in the Special Interests section which you have to actually open to get the full list of sub forums.
Richard
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I have a reel of solder which I cannot remember where I acquired it but it is very badly oxidised and is difficult to solder with mainly I think because the cored flux is insufficient to keep the oxides suspended. I keep meaning to try additional flux to see if it improves soldering but I am still working through another reel first.
Richard
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A capacitor wired in series will not pass current through, it needs to wired across the output of the rectifier.
Richard
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An online calculator that is largely simply dividing two numbers ! .
For many it is not as simple as dividing two numbers it is what numbers to use, whereas those in the know will consult manufacturers data sheets. Beginners would need to know where to first obtain that data let alone make sense of what appears gobblygook even if they could obtain the relevant data. This hobby is a broad church and not everyone wants to become an electronics expert to run a layout and why should they? I do not think it is unreasonable for people to take out a " black box" approach of saying " I have a certain colour LED and a certain power supply, what resistor do I use? After all we all have controllers and most have no idea what is going on in the box but it does not stop us using them or realising certain inputs will result in certain outputs. If online calculators get solutions for people to enjoy their hobby then I wholeheartedly condone their use! Rant over.
My own preference for a recommended calculator is Electronics Assistant available as Windows only FREE download from here;
https://www.electronics2000.co.uk/
The series resistor calculator allows you to get a solution with the minimum information of LED colour and supply voltage to putting whatever data you have to hand. It shows you the formula and what figures it is using and will not only provide the answer but suggest the nearest preferred value. Pressing the help button will educate you about the calculation and what all the abbreviations mean. Yes educating yourself on certain aspects of electronics will be useful to operate a layout but is not essential to enjoy the hobby nor is it everybody's desire.
Richard
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I am with those who want to leave well alone. What I think you might want to consider is to change computer control in special interests to Automation & Computer Control as many questions on both seem to crop up in the DCC sections. It might also be useful to direct questions/discussions on automation and computer control to that relevant sub-forum.
Richard
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I hope this question is in the correct part of the Forum.
I purchased a refurbished pc and screen for use in my railway shed. No manuals were supplied hence asking the question here.
The pc has an HDMI port but there is no HDMI port on the monitor. However there is a port that is described as a "display port" and looks similar to but not quite the same as an HDMI port. An HDMI cable will not fit as the design is slightly different.
I have purchased an "HDMI to Display port" cable but I am apprehensive about connecting everything up with it in case I do damage.
Can any of you IT savy members advise please?
Thanks
Colin
DisplayPort is compatible with HDMI so a lead with the appropriate plugs at either end will be OK. Displayport is far from being just another standard imposed on PC users, it is the ideal way to display on several screens from a single PC.
Richard
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The format of taking a more realistic period to build an entire layout has been tried, as a TV format. I am thinking of the series "The Garden Railway", presented by the very funny and personable Mark Found. This series took each stage of the build, in each episode, using the formula of an enthusiastic near-idiot, with a sceptic spouse, being shown what to do by an expert or two, as their small back garden became a horrible mess, until, butterfly-like, a charming layout emerged and order was restored. In between the concrete pouring and track laying, there would be visits to other garden railways around the country (including of course Bob Syme's fantastic wonderland - shows how long ago this was). It was rivetting and compulsive viewing, even though the gauge, scale and power source he was using, was not one of my choice, largely because it was so entertaining.
But it was only on one of the Sky Discovery channels, although you can still see every episode on YouTube. But it did get some reasonable viewing numbers I believe, for that kind of channel, so one wonders what such a series would obtain on a main channel. But it proved that the right presenter(s) and format, are everything.
The last model railway layout programme aimed more at modellers was Model Town also shown on Discovery Shed channel a few years back it has not been repeated nor has it ever come out on DVD. It showed several techniques from track laying and ballasting to building construction and weathering. If I recall it was built in one of the buildings on the Bluebell line and displayed there for a while. It also had an entertainment aspect to attract the occasional channel hopper with a back story based on a murder, spies and a radio-active tin mine.
Richard
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It shows the dc symbol on the output graphic and it shows as dc on the multimeter and nothing when I try it on AC therefore I am assuming it is DC
Probably an unregulated PSU, you need to add a voltage regulator to the output. It is a simple circuit consisting of an IC and a few capacitors. Google will turn up a few if not PM me with a email address and I will send you a circuit. If using a voltage regulator make sure your PSU can deliver at least a 3V overhead over the desired output to your LEDs.
Richard
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Many thanks indeed Richard.
Two out of four is not good so a new one from Antex themselves, though £12 more than those on Ebay, will be a good investment.
P.S. It seems that you can't trust ebay and the likes for electricals. Counterfeiting would seem to be everywhere.
Wow! That looks serious and dangerous damage. BTW I meant to mention to repair/replace a cable or element you would need access to another soldering iron.
Richard
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Over time cables tend to break internally at the point of maximum flexing usually near the point of entry into the device. As the cable strands begin to fray the cable at that point begins to thin meaning it allows less current through coupled with minor arcing of the frayed ends can cause a local build up of heat, it becomes a self perpetuating process resulting in a broken cable often fixed by cutting away the damaged section and shortening the cable. The cable can fail quite dramatically as once happened on SWAMBOs iron where a short developed and went with a bang.
More worrying is the melting you describe at the plastic collar, if it's the black portion at the end of the element then that is anew one on me. Over the years at work we had hundreds of Antex irons often handled somewhat roughly by their users and never has that occurred. Over the years our technicians repaired/cannibalised many irons but never did that occur, suggests to me you have a suspect iron there. With only 4 parts to the iron and two of them damaged, I suggest it needs mending with a new one.
Richard
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I am sure this question has been asked before but are there any advantages/disadvantages to fitting a point motor directly unto a Peco point without the need for a mounting place? Iknow I will have to cut out a hole out on the baseboard to accommodate it.
Thanks
Milano
If the point motor fails then you probably have to lift the whole point to remove and replace. Attaching the motor separately to the baseboard means easier replacement but working under the baseboard might be an issue if you are getting on.
Richard
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Lenz first mentioned they were developing, or planning to develop the new system in 2008 (10 years ago) and officially announced the LZV 200 in Feb. 2010.
It was due out in 2011, then in 2012 and....etc, etc.
The LH 101 was announced about 2 or 3 years ago IIRC?
The latest info is 4th quarter 2018, but that's been the same old story over the last few years, when rough dates have been given and then nothing appeared.
Lenz are not exactly fast in this regard.
[Note: I see on the A&H web site that the SET 010 and LH 01 handset will also be replaced, along with the discontinued SET 100 and LH 100, by the new SET 101 and LH 101, when they eventually
The trade-in offer is still on the German version of the Lenz web site, but there's no mention of it on certain German retailer web sites, so the trade-in deal might only be available directly with Lenz.
It's always possible that the trade-in offer will become available through official retailers and import agents, once the new product is available and in the shops.
A&H might have some information on this.
The English language version of the Lenz web site, has been unavailable for several months, with a notice saying it's being re-vamped.
The German version has news items added fairly regularly, but the main content hasn't been fully and properly updated for a long time.
Nowadays, the company's main emphasis appears to be on their own range of RTR models and sadly the DCC side of things seems to be taking a back seat.
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I have to agree that Lenz equipment is bombproof. However, though they regularly make announcements of new equipment on the way as pointed out above the wait can be years so much is just vapourware. As far as I can recall other than some new decoders the last addition to their system was an upgraded computer interface and that is some years back.
Richard
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Heat shrink typically shrinks by a factor of 2:1 or 3:1. Find out what the outside diameter of the wire you intend to use and then select suitable heat shrink based on its shrinkage ratio.
Alternatively, if you have the space use solderless LED connectors although they work out more espensive.
https://www.rapidonline.com/truopto-c-911-2-54mm-led-holder-solderless-55-0167
Richard
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The continuity buzzer sounds good, but it doesn't seem to have many ranges.
I find even the cheapest analogue meter superior to the most expensive digital when searching for faults in inaccessible places as you can hear the needle clicking against its stop and see the needle moving where digital numbers are fluctuating so wildly as to be unreadable.
Off Topic but Do be very careful with electrics if you involve a professional electrician from a well established local firm. We ended up with live screws, 240 volt, in the switch in our pre school room after a visit by "Professionals" who somehow managed to connect the metal Patress box to live. See Pics. My Multimeter came from Hardings Cheltenham High Street. It works. As does my analogue one.
Had to do a double take on the photos. David you have three hands!
Richard
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The OP mentions "miniature" toggle switches in his first post and later that some of his switches are permanently ON. This suggests that the switches were under-rated in the first place and not capable of handling the several Amps current involved using solenoid motors. Switches without robust internal contacts and adequate separation gaps will fail exactly like mentioned as contacts get welded together.
Richard
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I find that these two cover all my needs.
The only hard bit is getting into tight corners.
On the other hand, my wrist strength has improved mightily.
Regards
Ian
That takes me back to my school days working with tinplate. Just looking at the photo I can smell the soldering irons heating in little gas stoves and the tang of killed spirits.
Richard
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From what I can see in the user manual each servo output is activated by grounding its input so to activate three servos from one switch all you need to do is connect their inputs to a single SPST switch through to ground. Doing it this way will preserve all the individual programmed movements wheras using a single output will mean all the servos will move the same amount.
Richard
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Just come across these. They are available in 3 & 5 way, are mains rated although no detail on amperage. They are used to make changing zone valves in domestic heating systems plug and play. Those systems usually have a 3A fuse so they should be good enough for that at least. The connectors can be found cheaper on EBay.
Richard
https://www.plumbase.co.uk/5-way-connector-block-rege105-100007735-3530924
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Rapid have them in 3 sizes up to 16 amps, should be enough.
https://www.rapidonline.com/camdenboss-pluggable-terminal-strips-63850
Brian
It was the Rapid ones that I mainly used and found quite robust.
Richard
DCC sub-forum area re-structure
in DCC Discussion Topics (not questions)
Posted
Great to see the new Power & Control sub forum, just need to get Computer Control & Automation in here and it will be perfect.
Richard