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Tricky Dicky

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Everything posted by Tricky Dicky

  1. Thanks for the listing Dave, my original program was very similar except I used an 08M and a single servo and included a couple of lines to switch some LEDs to indicate position. Whatever caused the twitch was nothing to do with the servo which is the usual cause. With the servo disconnected and an LED connected to the output to the servo you could see the brief twitch which I believe is down to the program commands rather than the circuit. A number of other PICAXE users reported some twitching and the fact that the Technical guru managed to produce a program without using the specific servo c
  2. I thought Gaugemaster offered a lifetime guarantee, send it back to them. Richard
  3. I would be grateful for more info, in particular your program and how using servos has worked out on the layout. I recently designed and programmed a Picaxe circuit for a fellow modeller using a servo to operate a gate on a private siding. In the end it turned out more cost effective to modify one of their AXE024 modules. The only problem I had was with the programming using their BASIC servo commands. I got the servo moving through the required angle at the correct speed but could not eliminate a single twitch which occurred at the end of each movement. In the end I posted my problem on t
  4. From what I can see each 5cm strip contains the usual 3 SMD LEDs and a single current limiting resistor The strip of LEDs will arrive as one continuous length and you will be able to cut required lengths in multiples of 5cm (5cm of 3 LEDs and one resistor being the minimum length). However long the strips you require will only require a 12v DC supply hooking up to illuminate the LEDs. If the brightness needs toning down then an additional resistance in either of the supply leads will do. The value of the additional resistor is really a matter of trial and error, with LEDs doubling up the resis
  5. Can you link to the specific LEDs you intend to use? Richard
  6. For a simple single bifold door probably the simplest way to drive it is to use a small DC motor with a gearbox driving a threaded bar. A simple nut on the threaded bar fixed so it cannot rotate will move along the bar in either direction depending on direction of rotation. Limit switches at either end can be used to prevent overruns. Servos can be used where small movements are required but a larger movement will need to be amplified through the linkages. Your strobe effect can be achieved using an astable circuit, ones based on 555 timers are plentiful on the Internet, a bit of experimen
  7. Hi Mike Just a request for a bit of clarity about your announcement. I have an iPad2 iOS 9.3.5 and with the imminent demise of 32 bit apps I bought TouchCab, the version that downloaded was 1.8.4 which is both 32 bit and 64 bit compatible. Will the subsequent versions in the pipeline be equally compatible or will they be purely 64 bit versions? If 1.8.4 is the last version to support 32 bit hardware will it still be available from the app store? Currently when I go to my purchased apps TouchCab does not appear in the list. The reason I ask is that my iPad seems to have a few gremlins o
  8. Another alternative is Wago Connectors, they will grip 7/02mm to 4mm2 available in 2,3 & 5 way. Tool less installation and they are one of the few permitted connectors allowed under the wiring regs. to be used in inaccessible places. Many electricians recommend them in place of choc blocks. They can also be easily reused. http://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-3-way-lever-connector-221-series-32a-pack-of-50/2803r Richard
  9. Gamesontrack and it is Danish. GPS is a bit tongue in cheek as it uses ultrasonics for position location. Richard
  10. How clean your wheels and track are is going to affect resistance and therefore voltage. Sorry cannot see how this would work with any repeatability/accuracy. Richard
  11. I think this is the actual data sheet for your make of switch, according to the circuit diagram I am afraid it is not going to do what you want. I was hoping one side of the switch acted as SPST switch the other side simply switched the LED enabling you to provide a seperate supply to the LED with appropriate current limiting resistor. http://www.honyone.com/uploadfile/MR-6.pdf You can still use it as as two linked SPST switches one to switch the track on and the other to switch a remote LED on a mimic panel but the rocker itself will not illuminate. Richard
  12. If it is a mains ON/OFF switch designed to work at 230V you will probably find it is already connected internally, of course this means it will switch at low voltage but the light will not work. Try to post the specifications and it might be possible to sort it out. Richard
  13. The most common method for frog polarity switching on hand operated points is to use wire in tube where a slide switch is mounted on the edge of the baseboard. The wire is connected to the slide switch actuator by drilling a hole through it, the actuator can then be used to move the point whilst the switch connected to frog simultaneously changes the polarity. A simple wire link can be used if the switch can be lined up with the tie bar. Richard
  14. Blown capacitors are the most likely cause of a CDU failure and should be a fairly easy repair to make. If replacing capacitors make sure you exceed the required voltage rating with the replacements, I would go with 35v rated capacitors for a 12v CDU. Electrolytic capacitors are notoriously inaccurate 20% is not unusual. I have only used the probe and stud method for point control and when I see the sparking it always concerns me how people manage with some of the flimsy push switches you see on control panels. It certainly does not surprise me that people have to keep replacing them.
  15. Whilst I have sympathy for those who struggle to solder which is mainly due to poor technique and or lack of understanding, I take issue with those that make it out as a Black Art where you have to sell your soul to the devil or mutter the right incantations whilst soldering. No matter whether you are Brazing, Silver Soldering or Soft soldering we do as modellers the principle is the same, the two metals to be joined need to be brought up to the temperature at the joint at which the solder will melt only then will fusion of solder to metal take place. Focussing on soft soldering, a solderi
  16. When I did it with a PICAXE I used a counter to step through from the start position to the end position, I included a short pause in the loop this had the effect of slowing the motion down. Richard
  17. Hi Spikey Your CDU output is slightly higher than the manufacturers recommendation but less than the 27.7V max. for the relay so there should be no problem there. On the failed indicator modules the state of the coils can be checked by a continuity or better a resistivity test across terminals 1 & 3 and 2 & 3. An open circuit or resistance less than 960R will indicate a fault. As said before if you were using the regulator circuit connected to terminals 4 & 5 then it is not needed if the LEDs are blowing increase the series resistors. Sorry I cannot be any further help at t
  18. When the modules failed did the point motors still operate? Richard
  19. Spikey When you said the modules failed what exactly went wrong did the LEDs burn out or did the relay coils burn out. As Suzie has said the 12v supply to terminals 4&5 is merely to power the LEDs the internal switches of the relay are rated well above what is drawn by the LEDs. If it is the coils that are burning out then according to the circuit your CDU output is too high. According to the relay data sheet the coils can take a maximum of 27.5v and that should be momentary, the module manufacturer recommends 20V max. Richard
  20. I think you you have over thought the situation. It is quite common for unregulated PSUs to present a higher voltage open circuit than their stated nominal voltage but as soon as you present a load that voltage drops down to the stated voltage and as the current draw increases that voltage can drop below the nominal voltage. As Brian above stated the L7812s need an overhead on input of at least 2V, but as soon as your circuit presents a load and the voltage drops towards the nominal voltage you lose that overhead so it does not surprise me they overheat you are trying to make them do something
  21. That should be the case especially if you have a wireless router or modem router. Early modems, and this is going back to dial up days often required a seperate router. I would expect at least one of your leftovers from the various upgrades would be OK and you do not need an Internet connection to simply communicate between devices on what is a LAN. Richard
  22. The standard advice for someone starting out is to go DCC from the outset and with only two locos you can be considered a starter. Converting later on once you have acquired extensive stock can be like climbing a mountain. Other factors to consider is the size of layout/s you anticipate having. Going DCC on a small shunting layout with no more than one loco on track may feel overkill, not that DCC is inappropriate on small layouts. If you suspect your controller is faulty and the cause of your running issues then I think before you spend money repairing your existing controller wether that
  23. Try PICAXE probably even cheaper, http://www.picaxe.com/ Software is free, including several flowchart programs for beginners. No special downloader required just a simple USB lead. Extensive manuals free to download with plenty of examples of both circuits and programs along the lines you require. Also a very helpful forum if you get stuck. PM me if you are interested. I have no connection to the company. Richard
  24. Vr is generally higher than Vf it is Ir that is usually considerably lower than If. Reverse biasing one LED with another with the correct current limiting resistor should pose no problem after all bi-colour 2 pin LEDs are nothing more than two LEDs reverse biased to each other in one case. Richard
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