Tricky Dicky
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Posts posted by Tricky Dicky
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Easily found on eBay and elsewhere: search for 'pluggable terminal strip'.
The commercial product has sprung connector pins so the strips plug together securely without needing any screws tightening (or loosening, when you want to dismantle the baseboards again). Depends on how often you plan to be assembling and disassembling the layout, I guess. I suspect the sprung pins and/or the holes they plug in to may go slack after a unknown number of insertions/disconnections anyway. If you're going to be connecting and disconnecting a lot then a connector system designed to stand up to that kind of mechanical use would probably be preferable.
I can vouch for quality pluggable terminal strips. I used them in a context where they were constantly being plugged and unplugged several times a day however, there is a lot of variety and I did find one cheap brand was not as robust. Again a lot will depend on how often you need to separate them. What I would suggest when using them is to fix one to under the board or on a small piece of ply with enough protrusion on the connecting side for the the other half to slide on and engage with the fixed strip I find doing this helps keep them in place rather than having the strip dangle freely.
Richard
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Well they saved the best till last. It was good to see Jenny and her team perform at last and "anyone who can breathe" has got to be the defining comment of the series.
Jenny, I would get yourself a projector and screen put a presentation together and get round a few model rail shows, you should be able to make a bob or two out of it especially if you can get hold of any out takes.
Well done to you and the crew.
Richard
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I have quite enjoyed the series and look forward to the final episode. I have found it entertaining particularly the interaction between participants even some of the p**ts though cringeworthy at times have proved good entertainment. I admit I am not hung up on the semantics of wether it is a model railway or not and accept that the track used was the only reasonable solution considering the constraints involved. I am pretty sure our Victorian predecessors would have jumped at using a similar solution if the engineering was available.
My only gripe if I can call it that is I would have preferred to concentrate on getting to Inverness by whatever means rather than employing pseudo Victorian solutions that did not really demonstrate or even use the engineering principles of the structures they copied. The truss bridge was best left as a box section if it needed making lighter then a bit of judicious use of a hole saw would have achieved better than cutting triangular holes in plywood thus diminishing its natural strength. The viaduct as someone has already said could simply have been made with a few concrete blocks spanned with planks, the plywood solution was never going to demonstrate why the arch was such an appropriate solution as employed in Victorian viaducts. The trestle bridge was the only structure that demonstrated the engineering principles especially when one of the builders applied his whole weight to a section. More of things like the spiral was what was needed, here was a problem and a bunch of people came up with an appropriate solution.
Richard
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If the select has a thermal cutout then it may take a little while to reset. Have you tried it since you had the issue?
Richard
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Unfortunately I seem to have missed that and cannot find any reference to 'BBC Breakfast' on the BBC catch-up TV service.
Watch it on iPlayer it is the last item on the show approx 9:15 - 9:30
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Spoiler alert! Claire Barrett let the cat out of the bag in the Breakfast interview. Charlie Stayt demonstrated that put a train set in front of any bloke and out comes the big kid.
Richard
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Given that it's ancient and mains powered, I hope you're going to make at least a good visual check of the internal wiring before plugging it in. A check by a proper sparky would be better still.
By the time you have paid a "sparky's" hourly rate to test it it you might be better off with a new PSU.
Richard
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Tool station do a Duracell Industrial battery in AA & AAA sizes at a fraction of the cost of standard Duracell batteries sold retail. I have used them now for some time and although I have not really noted their longevity I do feel they are as good as the standard Duracell offering.
Richard
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Sorry for the wait, this is the code I'm using:
servo 0,75
servo 1,75
servo 2,75
servo 3,75
servo 4,75
servo 5,75
servo 6,75
servo 7,75
main:
if pinC.0=0 then servopos 0,75
elseif pinC.0=1 then servopos 0,200
endif
if pinC.1=0 then servopos 1,75
elseif pinC.1=1 then servopos 1,200
endif
if pinC.2=0 then servopos 2,75
elseif pinC.2=1 then servopos 2,200
endif
if pinC.3=0 then servopos 3,75
elseif pinC.3=1 then servopos 3,200
endif
if pinC.4=0 then servopos 4,75
elseif pinC.4=1 then servopos 4,200
endif
if pinC.5=0 then servopos 5,75
elseif pinC.5=1 then servopos 5,200
endif
if pinC.6=0 then servopos 6,75
elseif pinC.6=1 then servopos 6,200
endif
if pinC.7=0 then servopos 7,75
elseif pinC.7=1 then servopos 7,200
endif
goto main
Dave
Thanks for the listing Dave, my original program was very similar except I used an 08M and a single servo and included a couple of lines to switch some LEDs to indicate position. Whatever caused the twitch was nothing to do with the servo which is the usual cause. With the servo disconnected and an LED connected to the output to the servo you could see the brief twitch which I believe is down to the program commands rather than the circuit. A number of other PICAXE users reported some twitching and the fact that the Technical guru managed to produce a program without using the specific servo commands and cure the twitch suggests the problem is in the programming.
Thanks again Richard
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I thought Gaugemaster offered a lifetime guarantee, send it back to them.
Richard
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If you are happier with a basic like programming language, try the picaxe range. http://www.picaxe.com/
I've used these for many years, and find them easy to get on with.
A bit more info about one of my boards http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/105820-servo-controller-board-using-picaxe/
Let me know if you wnt more info
Thanks
Dave
I would be grateful for more info, in particular your program and how using servos has worked out on the layout.
I recently designed and programmed a Picaxe circuit for a fellow modeller using a servo to operate a gate on a private siding. In the end it turned out more cost effective to modify one of their AXE024 modules. The only problem I had was with the programming using their BASIC servo commands. I got the servo moving through the required angle at the correct speed but could not eliminate a single twitch which occurred at the end of each movement. In the end I posted my problem on the Picaxe Forum and one of their technical gurus rewrote the program eliminating the twitch. However, programming not being my forte I understand parts of the rewritten program but not the whole, so I wondered how you got on?
I would be happy to continue this conversation in the other thread if it is of no interest here.
Richard
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From what I can see each 5cm strip contains the usual 3 SMD LEDs and a single current limiting resistor The strip of LEDs will arrive as one continuous length and you will be able to cut required lengths in multiples of 5cm (5cm of 3 LEDs and one resistor being the minimum length). However long the strips you require will only require a 12v DC supply hooking up to illuminate the LEDs. If the brightness needs toning down then an additional resistance in either of the supply leads will do. The value of the additional resistor is really a matter of trial and error, with LEDs doubling up the resistance does not necessarily halve the brightness, so I would start with a low value in the order of a few hundred ohms and increase the resistance until happy. If you are DCC and pulling the supply from the rails then you probably talking of a 16V rail voltage that means it is not safe to hook up your 12v LEDs as they are but a bridge rectifier or 4 Diodes plus some additional resistance which can be easily calculated will be required. I am going to be out to work in the garden but will look in later this evening if you require any further help. Maybe someone else might contribute in the meantime.
Richard
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Can you link to the specific LEDs you intend to use?
Richard
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For a simple single bifold door probably the simplest way to drive it is to use a small DC motor with a gearbox driving a threaded bar. A simple nut on the threaded bar fixed so it cannot rotate will move along the bar in either direction depending on direction of rotation. Limit switches at either end can be used to prevent overruns. Servos can be used where small movements are required but a larger movement will need to be amplified through the linkages.
Your strobe effect can be achieved using an astable circuit, ones based on 555 timers are plentiful on the Internet, a bit of experimentation with a couple of components will get you the strobe effect you want.
Richard
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IT IS HERE!
After a year and a half of work in the background, we have now launched TouchCab V1.8.4 to the App Store!
While it may seem like not a lot has changed, we've been working on things in the background, and are already testing V1.8.5 with Beta Testers, and even later versions privately!
So, what's new in 1.8.4?
- Updated UI to be more inline with the current iOS versions
- Built for iOS 8 and above, on 32 and 64 Bit devices
- Adapts to all iPhone/iPod screen sizes automagically
- ECoS is now discovered AutoMagically
What's Next?
- 1.8.5 is already being tested with additional Language support
- 1.8.6 is being tested internally with some nice new additions
- 1.9.0 is in development with new features planned
- 2.0.0 is, erm, shhh - it's a secret
Hi Mike
Just a request for a bit of clarity about your announcement. I have an iPad2 iOS 9.3.5 and with the imminent demise of 32 bit apps I bought TouchCab, the version that downloaded was 1.8.4 which is both 32 bit and 64 bit compatible. Will the subsequent versions in the pipeline be equally compatible or will they be purely 64 bit versions? If 1.8.4 is the last version to support 32 bit hardware will it still be available from the app store? Currently when I go to my purchased apps TouchCab does not appear in the list.
The reason I ask is that my iPad seems to have a few gremlins occasionally and I feel it would benefit from a factory reset and rather than restore everything from a back up I would like to do a clean reinstall of apps just in case using a backup reintroduces some of the gremlins back.
Richard
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I have a whole lot of wires that need to be connected together and then eventually to a single feed.
I want to wire them really neatly.
Any ideas?
Another alternative is Wago Connectors, they will grip 7/02mm to 4mm2 available in 2,3 & 5 way. Tool less installation and they are one of the few permitted connectors allowed under the wiring regs. to be used in inaccessible places. Many electricians recommend them in place of choc blocks. They can also be easily reused.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-3-way-lever-connector-221-series-32a-pack-of-50/2803r
Richard
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Andy mentioned a 'local' GPS for positioning. It's already here, for sale commercially*. It appears to work but the bloke I know who bought it is no longer a member of our club so I'm not really up to speed on its current standings.
*I think it's Danish, IIRC, or at least Scandinavian or German.
Gamesontrack and it is Danish. GPS is a bit tongue in cheek as it uses ultrasonics for position location.
Richard
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How clean your wheels and track are is going to affect resistance and therefore voltage. Sorry cannot see how this would work with any repeatability/accuracy.
Richard
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I think this is the actual data sheet for your make of switch, according to the circuit diagram I am afraid it is not going to do what you want. I was hoping one side of the switch acted as SPST switch the other side simply switched the LED enabling you to provide a seperate supply to the LED with appropriate current limiting resistor.Ok, from the replies I obviously haven't been very clear in my explaination.
1. WHAT: see attached photo of 12A/125V 10A/250V DPST 4-pin 2 position Green LED light mini rocker switch on/off
2. WHY: "Off-scene" fiddle yard consists of 5 parallel road (3 cassette slots and 2 fixed tracks) sliding sector plate. Alignment by peg through sector plate into baseboard frame. Electrical feed from 12V DC supply to fixed tracks by dropper wire. Electrical feed to cassettes by brass plates on bottom of cassette sitting on sprung brass plate with dropper wire on baseboard. Fiddle yard operated independently of scenic section operation - fiddle yard operator indicates that train is ready and for which line using one of three on/off switches which illuminate the relevant indicator LED on the mimic control panel of the layout operator.
I hope this is a bit clearer.
http://www.honyone.com/uploadfile/MR-6.pdf
You can still use it as as two linked SPST switches one to switch the track on and the other to switch a remote LED on a mimic panel but the rocker itself will not illuminate.
Richard
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Hi all
First of all, electricals are definitely not my forte! I am after a clear, simple indication showing which of my 5 fiddle yard roads are switched on or off to receive power from the controller. Please can someone knowledgeable on electrics supply me with a simple diagram on how to wire up a 4-pin illuminated dpst rocker-switch so that it lights up when switched to the on position and power is being fed to the road it controls. I could work it out by trial and error but expert advice would be much safer I think.
I already have the rocker switches and I wanted to avoid the more complex wiring of a separate switch and LED arrangement which I already have on my mimic control panel.
Many thanks
Brian
If it is a mains ON/OFF switch designed to work at 230V you will probably find it is already connected internally, of course this means it will switch at low voltage but the light will not work.
Try to post the specifications and it might be possible to sort it out.
Richard
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The most common method for frog polarity switching on hand operated points is to use wire in tube where a slide switch is mounted on the edge of the baseboard. The wire is connected to the slide switch actuator by drilling a hole through it, the actuator can then be used to move the point whilst the switch connected to frog simultaneously changes the polarity. A simple wire link can be used if the switch can be lined up with the tie bar.
Richard
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Whilst I have sympathy for those who struggle to solder which is mainly due to poor technique and or lack of understanding, I take issue with those that make it out as a Black Art where you have to sell your soul to the devil or mutter the right incantations whilst soldering.
No matter whether you are Brazing, Silver Soldering or Soft soldering we do as modellers the principle is the same, the two metals to be joined need to be brought up to the temperature at the joint at which the solder will melt only then will fusion of solder to metal take place. Focussing on soft soldering, a soldering iron is just a heat source just like the plumbers torch and like a torch will easily melt solder but unless you get the joint up to solder melting temperature all you are doing is creating blobs of solder on the surface with little or no adhesion.
Cleanliness and keeping the join clean is another important issue. If the metals you are joining look dirty or tarnished then clean the join area a fibre glass pen for light contamination abrasives or files for more severe. Keeping the area clean during soldering is what flux is for. Heat a piece of steel in a flame and round about 250C + you will see colours appearing on the surface ranging from straw to purple in colour and eventually going black as the temperature increases, these are oxides forming and will prevent solder fusing. Most fluxes, Rosin as in multi core solder tend to prevent the oxides from adhering to the metal by suspending them in the flux. Plumbers these days favour self cleaning fluxes as it saves them time cleaning pipes and fittings, many of these contain acids that need to be flushed away so not a good idea to use on electrical work.
As for soldering technique e.g. soldering a through hole component to a PCB. First, make sure your iron tip has a coating of solder, referred to as tinning, if not clean/wipe the tip and run a little solder on till it is a shiny silver colour- do not put a blob on. Second apply the tip to the join and hold, do not move it about trying to paste the solder, count 1-2-3 and add the solder it should flow on contact once sufficient has flowed remove the solder then the iron. Once the solder freezes it can be moved, a good join will not form a blob but should look like a miniature volcano round the wire. It is bad technique to melt a blob of solder on the end of the tip and then transport it to the join and attempt to paste it on. Whilst your melting and moving the iron in position you are burning away the one thing helping you solder namely the flux and pasting with the iron is not helping to heat the join.
As for different wattages of irons, again a lot of misunderstanding exists. When you place an iron on a join heat transfers from the tip into the join, that heat needs to be replaced by the element a higher wattage iron can do that quicker hence why on larger joins where the heat sinking factor is greater a high wattage iron is used whilst on most electronic work heat sinking is less of an issue and so less powerful irons can be used. Johnster has perfectly summed up his success with soldering wires to rails.
Many thanks for the responses, everyone, and especially the 'friendly/supportives'. To keep perspective, a failed attempt at resuscitating a dead chassis that was not let down by the soldering, and 4 connections on a tiny blt, are not world changing events, even in my small world. I have to agree that a better tool has eased the terror of the job; not only is the new iron a 40 watt compared to my old 25 watt one, but it has a finer tip, a point rather than a sort of bevelled cylinder. I think that this has concentrated the heat into a smaller area much more effectively, and resulted in the solder melting and the iron being able to be taken away before conduction has had much chance to do harm to the surrounding track/chassis block/whatever else it is, or my hands start shaking and everything ends up where it shouldn't.
Like 40something, I am a bit more confident about the whole thing now, but would be wary of tacking a brass kit, especially something as complex as a loco. I am on the lookout for auto trailers not covered by the rtr offerings, though, and with a little more practice kit building in brass become an option, and after than I could think about replacement chassis!
Steady on, now, Johnster my boy, walk before you try to run...
Many will say using a high wattage iron in the circumstances above leads to melting sleepers, well the truth is it is the opposite. Because a low wattage iron will struggle to replenish the heat into the tip you end up holding it on longer allowing the heat to spread along the rail eventually it reaches sleeper melting temp. A high wattage iron will deliver the required heat quicker, remember 1-2-3, thus localising the heat and making the whole process quicker. Because you are localising the heat it will then dissipate harmlessly into the cooler metal either side of the join. Another misconception is that high wattage irons are hotter than lower watt types, again a fixed temp 18W iron will achieve the same temp. as a fixed temp. 50W iron. Some variable temp. irons do use varying power input to maintain different temps. but that is the only time heat and wattage are related. Finally, as this has now become an epistle, heat transfer into a joint is determined by the size and profile of the tip, so with a suitably fine tip a high wattage iron can used for small electronic soldering however from the users point of view it is probably more comfortable to manipulate a smaller and therefore less wattage iron in these circumstances.
I apologise if much of the above may sound pedantic, but over my lifetime I have much experience of soldering ranging from brazing with oxy-acetylene to silver soldering precious metals with hall marked solders and in my latter years an awful amount of electronics.
Richard
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I was rather hoping one could just hook up a device via Wi-Fi directly to the DR5000.
I've got several old wireless routers that are left over from upgrades ADSL > ADSL2 > Fibre, I'll have to try one.
Cheers
Keith
That should be the case especially if you have a wireless router or modem router. Early modems, and this is going back to dial up days often required a seperate router. I would expect at least one of your leftovers from the various upgrades would be OK and you do not need an Internet connection to simply communicate between devices on what is a LAN.
Richard
Channel 4 model railway challenge
in DVD/Video/TV
Posted
I can understand they were not allowed to excavate the paths and tracks but surely a bit of packing under the track with gravel or sand would have prevented many of the derailments seen and once finished the residue would have been easily swept away to form part of the path surface. In the first episode it showed track being laid past a pile of gravel, I thought they intended to use it but, no. The track did seem to perform better on paved surfaces with less derailments unless they were edited out?
Richard