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Nig H

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  • Location
    Bolton
  • Interests
    London Midland Region c.1959, LM coaches, 2mm finescale modelling.

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  1. Hi Klaus, Nice work so far, and nice to see a 2mm scale Midland Compound. You mention 14mm driving wheels but I recommend you use 13mm drivers. With the overscale flange, 14mm won't fit in the rear splashers, and only just in the front splashers, assuming the kit is exactly to scale. I tried some 14mm drivers in my MR class 483 (whichich is about the same size in this repect) and they were just too big, whereas 13mm fitted and looked about right in my opinion. Here's a pic of my 483 for you to judge. Then you can use bigger bogie wheels too. I think 6mm diameter ones would look too small. On my loco the frames are angled in slightly towards the front end from near the front step, a trick I copied from a John Greenwood T9 4-4-0. This allows more sideplay for the bogie. It might be a bit late to do this with your loco though. I look forward to you posting more updates soon. Nigel Hunt
  2. Here are some shots on my LNWR 19" Goods with all the construction work finished. I want to add a bit more weight over the drivers as the loco seems a bit nose heavy. Then it will be ready for painting, crewing and coaling. Nigel Hunt
  3. Hello Simon, It might be best to put the non-flute end of the drill in the axle muff unless you really want to open out the bearing hole in the frame. Nigel Hunt
  4. Hello Adam, Yes that's right. This will provide a single 30:1 ratio with the worm wheel on the driving wheel axle muff. Nigel Hunt
  5. Here are a few more pics of my LNWR 19" Goods. Almost all soldering done now, just a front coupling to do. Then smokebox, chimney and dome to attach. At the moment the running is far from satisfactory so that is the next thing to sort out. Nig H
  6. Probably no use to you but I have produced etched kits for the Princess Royal and Princess Coronation in 2mm finescale. Here are a couple of pics. Nigel Hunt
  7. Hi Mike, For the Jubilee you need 6.5mm bogie wheels, not 6mm. If you got that dimension from instructions for the PECO Jubilee chassis, then I think they must have been written before we had 6.5mm bogie wheels. The Farish instructions give the correct diameter. I don't include Association part numbers with my parts list as they can change now and then and confusion can occur if my list includes superseded numbers. Nigel Hunt
  8. I agree with Simon about using brass tube. It's much easier to solder handrail knobs into holes in brass tube than a solid brass boiler as the latter acts as a big heat-sink. Nig H
  9. Hello John, Yes, from the run Chris Higgs organised. Nigel Hunt
  10. A very small sub-set actually. Nigel Hunt
  11. Here are some pics showing progress with my LNWR 19" Goods, but first a pic of my magnifier/ lamp. Trying to keep the lamp in the desired position proved increasingly difficult and eventually the thread on the screw nearest the magnifier sheared, so I used string(!) to keep it in place. This worked for a while until one of the arms sheared completely as I straightened or bent the two arms during set-up. As I can't work without some help from a magnifier, and haven't been able to for many years, I had to rig something up so the Heath Robinson set up shown is what I now use. It looks rubbish but at least I can see what I am doing. The pics below show the initial stages in fixing the handrail along the ejector pipes. I've had to do this before on several other LNWR locos, but for some reason this time I really struggled to get the shape just right. The third attempt seemed finally to fit correctly round the front of the smokebox and along the sides of the ejector pipes. One of the difficulties is keeping the bent-up wire (10 thou spring steel, annealed) in place at one point while offering it up on the other side of the boiler, but bits of blu-tac helped. This shows the right-hand side with the wire soldered in place. The left side with the wire just about tack soldered near the front of the ejector pipe. The front of the handrail (just about visible) following the circumference of the smokebox. Once the wire had been tacked in place i could squeeze it here and there to improve the fit. Strictly speaking the ejector and handrail should be held in place with a series of knobs along the length of the boiler, but life is too short for me to do that, and on prototype pics those knobs are hardly visible. Nigel Hunt
  12. Hi Simon, looks good so far. May be you know but just in case, its worth opening out the steam pipe holes before you fix the smokebox etc to the footplate as it makes fitting the steam pipe at the correct angle a lot easier. I found I had to file the hole at quite a sharp angle to get the pipe to fit inside the smokebox. Nigel Hunt
  13. Hi John, Have a look at my Princess instructions - basically one length of tube with a short length of the next size up tube at the firebox end so you get the cone shape for the boiler wrapper. You may need to add some shim round the short tube to get the right diameter at the firebox end. Its also worth trying to tapper the short tube towards the smokebox end so that the wrapper is in contact along all of the short tube, not just the front edge. Nigel Hunt
  14. Hi, There is a very useful article on BR van variations in 'Your model Railway' April 1987. It gives the various combinations of sides, doors, ends, corrugations, rainstrips, couplings, brake gear and axleboxes. The chassis to use would be 2-354 or 2-357, as Andy pointed out. The four -shoe Morton fitted (2-254) was the most common chassis with the eight-shoe version used on later lots. Buffers of various ribbed types were fitted to most vans until later lots of D 208. Nigel Hunt
  15. Me. I have a lot of 0.25mm and some other similar thicknesses, free of charge. If you are interested send me a PM specifying what you want. Nigel Hunt
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