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Nig H

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    London Midland Region c.1959, LM coaches, 2mm finescale modelling.

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  1. Hi, Coaches coming along nicely. Are the roofs finished, as I think they need rainstrips adding. Nigel Hunt
  2. If you need more information for your model you could try the South Western Circle, https://www.lswr.org/. They have a number of drawings for bits of M7s. You may have to join to get them, but I'm sure they would be happy to provide information free if asked. I found a series of articles that appeared in Model Railways in the 1970s invaluable for learning scratchbuilding techniques. They were by B Fesank and I think entitled, 'For locomotive building start here'. Much of the narrative was based on the construction of a Midland Railway 1F half cab. I've not seen the Simon Bolton bo
  3. Hi Simon, Nice work on the wagons, and the J94 is coming along nicely. Just a couple of points concerning the chassis. Firstly the front guard irons should hang vertically, not at an angle. Secondly you can paint the whole chassis with the top coat before fitting the brake gear. To solder the brake hangers in place, strip the paint off the 0.3mm rod first. Soldering the top end of the brake hangers to these should not damage much of the paintwork nearby and can be touched up when you paint the brake gear. Nigel Hunt
  4. Here is a pic of the layers I use as described above. Top left is a drawing of a frame spacer for a Fowler tank. To the right is the 'construction' layer with the basic outline of the part. Middle left is the layer with white hatch for no etch. To the right is the red layer with etch from the top only, and the last layer is for blue hatch with etch from underneath only. So the part has outer fold lines on the underside, and inner half etched fold lines on the top only. The part number '5' is on the top only. The small red rectangles are the fills for the attachment tabs.
  5. Me too, I couldn't understand why David used so many layers. As he's a lot cleverer than me I just assumed he knew more about it all than I do. PEC told me to use four layers - the outline shape, white hatch for no etch, red hatch for etch from above and blue hatch for etch from underneath. This all seems very simple to me so that's how I draw my artwork. I use Autocad LT, arrange it all in a final sheet, send it off and get the sheets back from PEC some weeks later. I've used PPD too but found on one occasion the quality of the final product was poor, so I tend to stick with PEC.
  6. Hi John. Everything Nick and Simon have said is good advice and probably the best way to fix the wrappers. I didn't use a torch, but the biggest tip I've got on my Antex 25W iron. I didn't anneal the wrapper as I worry that this makes the metal too soft. For the smokebox wrapper I tinned the tube first. The wrapper should be rolled so it's a tight spring fit round the boiler tube. Once correctly located as per the instructions, I held it in place with wooden clothes pegs of various sizes round the diameter and /or inside the front end of the tube to hold the front edge of the wrapp
  7. Hi Simon, You can test for shorts using a DC controller. Just connect the terminals to the frame and then each spacer in turn with the power set high. The red light on my Gaugemaster goes out if there is a short. Regards, Nigel Hunt
  8. I know what its supposed to be for as its one of my chassis kits. Looking good so far, get in touch if you have any queries. Regards, Nigel Hunt
  9. I usually make the cylinder and slide bar support bracket/ motion bracket as one unit that drops into slots in the frames. These slots act as a jig to hold the cylinders and slide bar support bracket in place while the slide bars are soldered to the slide bar support bracket. It gets a bit fiddly if the crosshead has to be fitted before the two sub units are joined. The unit could be bolted to a spacer between the frames, but I keep it all in place via the soldered joint between the return crank and the driving wheel crank pin. This allows the cylinder unit to be lifted up and out of the frame
  10. Hi, You're right Kevin, it is one of the NGS saloons, just with finescale wheels fitted.
  11. Hello John, Thanks for the explanation - very useful. Nigel Hunt
  12. Hi John, I'd be interested to see how the articulation works for the twin. Any chance of a pic please? Nigel Hunt
  13. Thanks Andy and Jerry, that's answered my question. A lot of interesting stuff on the Falcon website. I wonder if they might do 2mm versions of some of their etches. Nigel Hunt
  14. Hello, Anyone know what this is a model of? Regards, Nigel Hunt
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