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Nig H

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Everything posted by Nig H

  1. Hi Simon, The white metal body made a great difference to running and pickup. I opened out the axle holes for Simpson springing a bit more than that recommended (1.7mm vs.1.6mm), so the loco waddles around a bit, though this might be because there is a lot of sideplay on the axles. However, it does run well for a 2mm 0-6-0T. Nigel Hunt
  2. Hi Simon, It's coming on then. I'd fit the middle axle gear next, but temporarily on a length of 1.5mm axle steel. Hold the axle steel in a mini drill and give the gear set a spin to see if it runs smoothly. You can also give the gears a quick flip with your finger to check they run smoothly without binding. You may want to consider running the gears with the minidrill with some Cif smeared over the teeth. This should after a few minutes smooth out any burrs. Afterwards, clean the chassis and gears thoroughly to remove all the Cif. Use a sonic cleaner if you have one. N
  3. I roll smokebox or boiler wrappers between two lengths of tube or rod, the one the wrapper goes round being of smaller diameter than that required for the wrapper. The wrapper needs to be fed between the two lengths of rod or tube, and these turned against each other, thus pulling the wrapper between them in a curve. You need to force the wrapper to follow the relevant tube by dragging everything away from that tube as you turn the tubes. Hard to explain but easy to do once you have a couple of goes. The rolled wrapper can then be eased out to the final diameter. I usually use tube of the appr
  4. It's the one in the paragraph above the list. The reference to Nigel Ashton in the contacts section needs changing to Nigel Hunt, but the emails end up with me. Thanks to Nigel Cliffe for sparing his time to set this up and show me how to transfer the data to him. I hope other members will soon starting listing some products. Please send comments about this facility to me and I'll consider whether any changes might be made. Nigel Hunt
  5. Thanks for your help. I think the plates can be left unsecured but packed out with bits of timber etc to prevent them moving around. Regards, Nigel Hunt
  6. Hello Julia, Thanks. I thought it best to list only a bare minimum of information to make it easier to update and to avoid cluttering up the web page. The additional information you mention should be available from the author. Concerning NinOz's query, access to the information will be freely available to member and non-members, and I don't see why authors should object to sending files to non-members. Regards, Nigel Hunt
  7. Hello, I'm ready to take details of files you are willing to share now. This is something like how it will appear on the Association website except that the five fields listed at the bottom will appear in a table. Members 3D print register Listed below are details of 3D prints that various members have offered to share with other members. If you are interested in something, then contact the member to discuss the item further and arrange for the file to be sent to you. The author of the design should be able to provide all the technical detail you need to kno
  8. Hi, I have been making some Plate wagons (PECO bodies, Association etched chassis) and some loads to put in them. The loads are supposed to be ten metal plates per wagon, represented by 40mm x 12mm 5 thou plastic sheet. I have glued the sheets to four battons, the whole lot to be fixed inside each wagon. I'm wondering how in practice such loads would be secured together in a wagon to prevent the sheets sliding around. I've got some chain but the links (1mm long) look a bit big to me. Anyone any ideas for something realistic looking? Nigel Hunt
  9. Hi, Apologies for not posting an update earlier, but anyway the Association website will soon have a place where 3D print files can be exchanged. The plan is to include author's name, product details and contact details. Once its up and running and a few products have been listed, we'll have a review and decide whether and how to carry on. Nigel Hunt
  10. Hi Kevin, Do you know what the cost of materials is for these wagons? Is it proportional to the number printed off, or is it possible to achieve economies of scale via increase quantities? Nigel Hunt
  11. Hi, It might be better to wait and see what the Committee thinks about this. There might be issues I've not thought about that put a spanner in the works- unlikely but you never know. I'm please with the response so far, thanks. Nigel Hunt
  12. Hi, Product Development Officer here. This seems like a really good idea and I wonder if the Association could facilitate it in some way. I thought that we could create a list of drawings available for sharing, with an item description, the designer name and contact details, cost if any, and any other useful information. The list could be included on the Association website under Products or some other area. I will discuss this on Saturday when we have a Zoom Committee meeting and report back. Does anyone think my proposal is worth looking at, and would anyo
  13. Hi, Coaches coming along nicely. Are the roofs finished, as I think they need rainstrips adding. Nigel Hunt
  14. If you need more information for your model you could try the South Western Circle, https://www.lswr.org/. They have a number of drawings for bits of M7s. You may have to join to get them, but I'm sure they would be happy to provide information free if asked. I found a series of articles that appeared in Model Railways in the 1970s invaluable for learning scratchbuilding techniques. They were by B Fesank and I think entitled, 'For locomotive building start here'. Much of the narrative was based on the construction of a Midland Railway 1F half cab. I've not seen the Simon Bolton bo
  15. Hi Simon, Nice work on the wagons, and the J94 is coming along nicely. Just a couple of points concerning the chassis. Firstly the front guard irons should hang vertically, not at an angle. Secondly you can paint the whole chassis with the top coat before fitting the brake gear. To solder the brake hangers in place, strip the paint off the 0.3mm rod first. Soldering the top end of the brake hangers to these should not damage much of the paintwork nearby and can be touched up when you paint the brake gear. Nigel Hunt
  16. Here is a pic of the layers I use as described above. Top left is a drawing of a frame spacer for a Fowler tank. To the right is the 'construction' layer with the basic outline of the part. Middle left is the layer with white hatch for no etch. To the right is the red layer with etch from the top only, and the last layer is for blue hatch with etch from underneath only. So the part has outer fold lines on the underside, and inner half etched fold lines on the top only. The part number '5' is on the top only. The small red rectangles are the fills for the attachment tabs.
  17. Me too, I couldn't understand why David used so many layers. As he's a lot cleverer than me I just assumed he knew more about it all than I do. PEC told me to use four layers - the outline shape, white hatch for no etch, red hatch for etch from above and blue hatch for etch from underneath. This all seems very simple to me so that's how I draw my artwork. I use Autocad LT, arrange it all in a final sheet, send it off and get the sheets back from PEC some weeks later. I've used PPD too but found on one occasion the quality of the final product was poor, so I tend to stick with PEC.
  18. Hi John. Everything Nick and Simon have said is good advice and probably the best way to fix the wrappers. I didn't use a torch, but the biggest tip I've got on my Antex 25W iron. I didn't anneal the wrapper as I worry that this makes the metal too soft. For the smokebox wrapper I tinned the tube first. The wrapper should be rolled so it's a tight spring fit round the boiler tube. Once correctly located as per the instructions, I held it in place with wooden clothes pegs of various sizes round the diameter and /or inside the front end of the tube to hold the front edge of the wrapp
  19. Hi Simon, You can test for shorts using a DC controller. Just connect the terminals to the frame and then each spacer in turn with the power set high. The red light on my Gaugemaster goes out if there is a short. Regards, Nigel Hunt
  20. I know what its supposed to be for as its one of my chassis kits. Looking good so far, get in touch if you have any queries. Regards, Nigel Hunt
  21. I usually make the cylinder and slide bar support bracket/ motion bracket as one unit that drops into slots in the frames. These slots act as a jig to hold the cylinders and slide bar support bracket in place while the slide bars are soldered to the slide bar support bracket. It gets a bit fiddly if the crosshead has to be fitted before the two sub units are joined. The unit could be bolted to a spacer between the frames, but I keep it all in place via the soldered joint between the return crank and the driving wheel crank pin. This allows the cylinder unit to be lifted up and out of the frame
  22. Hi, You're right Kevin, it is one of the NGS saloons, just with finescale wheels fitted.
  23. Hello John, Thanks for the explanation - very useful. Nigel Hunt
  24. Hi John, I'd be interested to see how the articulation works for the twin. Any chance of a pic please? Nigel Hunt
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