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Nig H

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Everything posted by Nig H

  1. Hello Richard, Thanks, but I hope my measuring is accurate or the models may not be as close as I think. In some ways 3", or 0.5mm can be a lot to be out by. It can affect the relative proportions of something like a chimney quite a lot depending on the other dimensions so for instance if a Princess Royal chimney is too high or wide by half a mil, its probably quite noticeable. To my eyes, the chimney on 52870 looks OK. maybe I should have gone to Specsavers! Hello Andy, Thanks. Yes' I'll be at the AGM - hotel and train all booked. See you there. It did occur to me that the loco was out of gauge because of the chimney error. Maybe I'll turn the driving wheels down a bit..., nah maybe not. Nig H
  2. I tried measuring both the locos (not easy in my opinion) and compared the results with the prototype dimensions. For the Super D, the height to the top of the chimney from rail level was 26.1mm, the prototype dimension being 13' 1" which is 26.167mm in 2mm scale, so about right. For the cab height, the figures were model c. 25mm, prototype c. 12' 6", or 25mm in 2mm scale, so about right. For 52870, the height to the top of the chimney from rail level was 27.2mm. The chimney I made is 0.5mm too high (I thought I'd get away with it), so the height should be 26.7mm. The prototype figure is 13' 4.5" or 26.75mm in 2mm scale, so the discrepancy is down to my error. The cab height is 25.45mm, and the prototype dimension is 12' 7.5", or 25.25mm in 2mm scale, so quite close. So, I'd say both the models are reasonably accurate and close to prototype dimensions except for the error in the chimney, subject to possible measuring errors. As I mentioned, I didn't find it easy to measure the models. As regards chimney heights, the difference in the models is 1.1mm (27.2mm - 26.1mm). Nig H
  3. I think they were the same height -wise (13' 6"). The very large diameter, high pitched boiler of the Lanky one is deceptive. The Super D is almost dainty by comparison. I haven't got my Model Railways 1973 drawing so I can't easily check the dimensions of 49426 at the moment, although if I assume that the cab remained unchanged height wise as the prototype evolved then drawings of the earlier classes (B, C, etc) in the E. Talbot books seem to agree with the dimensions of the model reasonably closely. Nig H
  4. I have no record of selling you one- have I missed you out? Regards, Nig H
  5. Hello John, Take care of that footplate as its fragile in its current state and easily bent. Its important to have the chassis done so you can check the drivers with the splashers, and then the boiler. You will need to remove some material from the underside of the boiler to clear the driving wheel flanges. I used a slitting disc etc in a mini drill to do this, if I remember rightly. Also, have you checked the cab sides against the curve of the rear footplate? There should be minimal gap if you've got the curve right. And don't forget the 12 ba body securing nuts on the front and rear footplates. All this should be in the instructions, but its worth emphasising. Good luck with the build, Nig H
  6. Here are some pics of 52870, now completed after weathering. I thought it was all going pear shaped near the end as the running was poor, but after connecting the frames of the loco chassis to the tender frames so that I got electrical pickup from the loco to, the loco ran quite nicely. I had to increase the gap between the tender and the loco by about an extra millimetre otherwise it would only go in straight lines. Just remembered - I'd like to acknowledge the help with prototype information Barry Lane has given me. Much appreciated. I couldn't resist this pic - the beauty and the beast! Nig H
  7. Well spotted Chris! In the 2mm world, with my chassis design, you have to insert the chassis at an angle to get the u/j shaft in so the coal hole needs to be extended down to the floor of the cab. I may have been generous with the dimensions at the top of the hole though. All this is very obvious with the short, very open cab. Did the high-sided wagons last until the early 1950's? You'll do an etched chassis too? Nig H
  8. Thanks JF. Overall the build went well especially for the first test etch. A couple of issues to resolve but fingers crossed they will be. Hello David, Thanks, and yes I'll be weathering it to make it look like the photos I've seen in its 1950/51 condition, and hide some of the transfer issues a bit. I'm not sure about producing more etches. Things like instructions are a pain to do. Regards, Nigel
  9. Here are some pics showing the loco nearing completion. There is a bit of tweaking (e.g. the drawbar connection) needed to get it running properly, then the backhead, cab windows, weathering, coaling and the crew to add. The pics are a bit cruel - some of the errors are hardly noticeable to my eyes. Now I need some mineral wagons to go behind the loco. Fifty should do it, but I'll maybe settle for 15 - 20! Nig H
  10. Hi Gary, I tried to describe the method in this post (no. 14). http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95398-rolling-your-own/&do=findComment&comment=1907127 Let me know if you need further details. Nig H
  11. Hi John, Yes, the cruciform style as stocked by the shop. However, these are cast by Sanspareil Castings (or used to be) and its difficult to get them to supply these (and the Black 5 castings) on a regular basis, so the shop may be out of stock. Regards, Nigel
  12. The fittings really do start to bring a model to life John I'd recommend not adding the axlebox/ spring castings until they've been painted, otherwise its difficult to paint the tops. Nig H
  13. Hi John, Some good, neat work there. You've made a good job of the curves at the top of the tender sides as far as I can tell from your pics. Looking forward to seeing you progress this. Which Princess will you be modelling? Nig H
  14. Hello Jon, Thanks for you comments. I've a pic of 52870, and you can see the smokebox handrail is above the centreline of the door. So, turning the door through 180 degrees will not solve the problem unfortunately. Fingers crossed I will be able to unsolder the handrail and nothing else on the door, then re-position it. I've just noticed the door has eight dogs, not the six on my model - bother!! Nig H
  15. Here are some pics with almost all the work using the etched parts done, except for the loco brake gear, and smokebox door hinge. This will be attached after the chassis and wheels are painted. The smokebox front is attached with blu tack at the moment, which is just as well as I need to move the smokebox handrail upwards slightly. The tender axlebox/ spring assemblies turned out OK in the end, although a pain to make, comprising 11 different parts each. I'll paint them then araldite them to the tender frames after the tender has been painted. The handrail knob holes look huge but they are only 0.4mm Nig H I managed to get a pic of the tender axleboxes as attached. I think they're reasonably close to what the real things look like.
  16. Here are a few more pics showing progress to date. The smokebox front has also been assembled so the only thing left to do from the etch is the axlebox/ spring assemblies for the tender, and some lamp irons. Nig H
  17. Hello, I agree with you about looks and cab style. It would be interesting to see some pics of your OO version. Here are some more pics of my 2mm version. Usually I find that errors on the first test etch mean another test etch is needed, but so far the errors I've made have been correctable, and I'm pleasantly surprised by how well most of the bits fit together. I must be getting the hang of this etching lark! The main bits of the etch still to do are the steps and the tender axleboxes. Fingers crossed that bits I've etched for the latter will go together as planned else I'm snookered. According to Barry Lane in his book, 'L & Y Locomotives', two of these locos worked from Pontypool Road GWR shed from early 1918. Presumably a wartime expedient. Nig H
  18. Hello, Ian, I don't know whether they went anywhere near the GWR, I suspect not. Jerry, I too have a soft spot for pre-grouping 0-8-0s, especially Super Ds. Here's another pic showing progress to date. Nothing was secured in place on the loco when this was taken, just resting on the footplate. I'm having problems with my camera so I may not be able to take more pics for a while. Nig H
  19. In this topic I'll describe building a L & Y large boilered 0-8-0 from an etch I recently produced. If you've seen a pic of the prototype you'll understand why I've named this topic 'The beast..' A friend maintains these are really ugly locos and I keep saying to him they aren't. Well, they're not beautiful like a Super D, but they are imposing looking locos. Here's a pic of the test etch. I've a few pics of progress to date which I'll try to post soon. Nig H
  20. Funnily enough, I was looking at one of these at Kearsley station on Thursday. I thought it was a thermostat for adjusting the temperature on the platform above. Thanks for the true explanation Jim. Nig H
  21. Also, most motors need to fit in the coal space between the front and rear bulkheads (and be hidden with a pile of dummy coal). The height of motors is usually too great for the motor to fit under the rear horizontal plate. Nig H
  22. The Farish ones have the worm mounted on the motor shaft so they don't seem too bothered about end thrust issues. I've never had any problems with motors having the worm on the shaft either. Nig H
  23. Hi Jim, Yes, I received 4 last week. I've only tested them to see they work - they all run smoothly as far as I can tell. They look almost identical to the Graham Farish 716s used in the latest locos, just a minor difference in the rear end plastic cover. Nig H
  24. Hi, The manufacturer told me a while back he has stopped production. Nig H
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