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oily

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  1. It may be worth reading articles in the 2mm Magazine on building the M7 and T9 Worseley kits. The M7 ran from 2012 to 2014 and the T9 was I think the following year 2015 Oli
  2. Thanks, Nick, that all helpful. I have copied it out and printed it to show how it can be done. Nothing quite like a good photograph to go with te words. Oli
  3. Have a friend struggling with GWR pony truck. Does anyone have good ideas for building a successful 2 wheeled bogie? I couldn't think of anything helpful as it seems very difficult to keep the wheels insulated with so little 'bulk' to it all. Somebody must have made a successful 2 wheeled truck that works and is strong and looks the part? Oli
  4. Thank you both Nigels. I've downloaded your messages and the contents of URLs and will study and try and absorb as much as possible. Will probably need to get back though as I already feel a bit overwhelmed. Yes, the Coal tank is incredibly impressive, I would love to be able to copy that, but a wish list dream at the moment. although I'm sure it's not that difficult once the first one is set up. Well, I hope so. Oli
  5. I have two scratchbuilt 2mm locomotives. An M7 and a T9 that both run reasonably well and reliably on a very small DC layout. I have spent hours and days reading up on DCC and Stay Alive capacitors, thinking maybe I should upgrade and get modern, but the more I read the more confused I get. SAC I gather might stop the very occasional hesitation? But some say DCC does that also. Or should I go for both? But then my problems get worse as advice gets more confusing as to what capacitors to use, what size they should be, whether one should add diodes and surge protection, to say nothing of which DCC decoder is compatible with them. And that's before you even start on the soldering them together and finding ones small enough as a lot of the advice online refers to 00 gauge. In case it affects the advice I'm given, both locos have coreless motors and years ago I was given a Digitrax DCS51 controller although it looks horribly complicated so I've never tried it. Can anyone just give me a suitable 2mm scale shopping list of what to buy, or indeed whether it's all worth the effort. Thanks Oli
  6. Does anyone know if an etch is available from any source for a 2mm scale GWR 4-4-0 (Bulldog) or an SR 4-6-2 Spam Can (West Country, Battle of Britain, Merchant Navy classes) I've found the Worseley Works BoB chassis etch but nothing else so far. Many thanks Oli
  7. Thanks Nick Works now, I have no idea why I kept getting repeats of previous video. Not like I've had problems with all the earlier ones. Anyway thanks for helping. Oli
  8. When I try and download and save Part 16, I get Part 15. Looking at top line it seems they have the same URL. What am I doing wrong? Please can someone advise. Thanks Oli
  9. Sorry to ask, but I need to clarify in my mind, am I correct, you're saying the balance weights are in identical positions on both sides in relation to the spokes not as I've been doing as mirror images side to side? Brillant set of video tutorials though. You should publish as a DVD when the set is complete. Oliver
  10. Does anyone happen to have a reasonably clear or close up photo of the bolier band tightening screw arrangement on top of a Great Western Belpaire firebox? Or better still a dimensioned drawing. Thanks Oli
  11. Yes I thought of and even tried a rolling road, but although I found it fine for a tank, it was less satisfactory for a tender loco with tender drive. Plus I like to get the bogie and tender wheels thoroughly run in too. And it always looks so much more authentic watching a new creation running up and down some track rather than sitting stationary, albeit with revolving drivers. Oli
  12. Thanks Andy that's looks a possibility. I will invesigate that further. I must confess to feeling extremely old and dated as Ian Morgam and Crosland (sorry don't know his first name) might well have been talking in a foreign language. JMRI, Raspberry-Pi, sensors, GPIO pins. I am totally lost, sorry guys, I've only just managed to fit a DCC decoder with some apprehension. Oli
  13. I used to have my locos and chassis under construction run themselves in on a length of track with a gap in the rail with a diode across the gap. Then a timer would reverse the current and the loco or chassis would run back. And so on all day and all night. Problem is now I have gone DCC the track is AC and the system doesn't work. So my question is, how can I set up a shuttle system with DCC? I have a Digitrax DCS51 controller and an even older ZTC system that was really great but rather bulky and now stored in the loft! Is it even possible without a massive amount of new electronics? Oli
  14. What a joy to read that there are still people who prefer the satisfaction of good old fashioned craftsmanship! I'm with you. I sometimes feel that skilled craftsmen and women are an endangered species. I'll now put on my tin hat and get my head down. Oli
  15. Does anyone know where I can obtain a standard 8mm watchmakers collet (Boley, IME etc) size 55 or 56 or better still both. I have searched eBay including USA without success and done a full internet search and can find nothing for either size. Maybe someone has one they don't use perhaps? Thanks Oliver
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