Jub45565

Hi Stuart, Glad you've enjoyed the topic - there has been a lot of useful information sharing going on! There is a drawing for Ilkley goods shed which 'Sir Douglas' shared here. No problem with N gauge modelling - while there are some things that are scale or gauge specific, there is an awful lot we can learn from each other which is independent of scale!

May we ask from whom, please?

Here are the 4 pages - these don't include the loco castings which he usual has at exhibitions. I don't think I've seen a separate list for those, but he may be able to supply by email. This list, incidentally, I 'm pretty sure Gordon A picked up for me - so he should have known they aren't part of the Nucast Partners ;-) Page 4 includes bank account details, so I can supply these by PM if needed - but I've cropped them out for the public view.

Is the chimney not available from Alan Gibson? These are listed: 4M770 LMS Class 3P 2-6-2T chimney 4M771 LMS Stanier 2-6-2T chimney - large I presume this means 770 is for the Fowler, and 771 is for the reboilered ones? But thought I should check just in case. Glad to hear it isn't far away though. Edited to add: there is also an Ivatt class 2 chimney available from Branchlines, but I think it is slightly thin in comparison? Cheers, Pete

Happy Birthday - however I hope you are heeding the relevant advice (stolen from facebook):

But those ones aren't entitled to...

Hi All, hope everyone is doing ok. The etched version of these vents is now available, via Justin at Rumney Models. http://website.rumneymodels.co.uk/latest-releases Cheers, Pete

Railwells, inc scalefour south west, is cancelled. https://www.scalefour.org/scalefoursouthwest/ Plus a topic on the Scalefour forum.

The last Ivatt 4 with a double chimney was late 57/early 58 (I can't remember which off the top of my head - but it is certainly well after 1953) - source, Irwell Press 'Book of the Ivatt 4s'. Edited to add that I can't find my reference for one that late, but quite a few made it to 1955 & 1956.

Indeed, and (this isn't aimed specifically at you John) - 'paying all the money' is actually pretty cheap if you look at the alternatives - even without including the cost of time to build, or pay someone to build, the parts for a kit, chassis, wheels, motor, gearbox, 3rd party detailing bits, paint, transfers... The problem (for me) is less about absolute cost, and more about whether the any errors which do creep in are correctable. Flattening a dome is achieveable, replacing a chimney is achieveable - if there is a replacement available... One thing Bachmann do a very good representation of is vac ejectors. Far better than those available elsewhere (for these prototypes).

I'd have thought 2 pairs of cassettes would be useful, to allow for one in use and 1 in the process of being swapped in each direction. Whether they would be easy to use depends on the ease of reaching al wall to store them on.

I have to agree with John. The chimney should be taller than the dome, but (as I've said before) I haven't seen a drawing of the Stanier chimney - from prototype photos it looks (to my eyes) like the chimney should be taller than the dome by about the same difference as dome to cab. Possibly a bit more, but nowhere near as it appears to be in this photo of the Bachmann model. Edited to note that I this is comparing with prototypes I'm interested in, of which 58072 isn't one, but even so.

I grew up in Eldwick, which is where my interest in the area stems from. I think I got my railways archives from Ebay, but of the 4 I think it is the 2nd of real interest (No 9 being very early tankers, and 15/16 being different chemicals) but I will check this after the weekend. There is a really interesting photo in one of, I think, Bairstows books with a WD 2-8-0 and about 5 tankers all of different types! But I'm yet to work out what they all are. I haven't put much effort into this yet though, as I am trying to finish off my 1P, and actually find time to get back on with the shed! Does anyone have any spare round tuits?

If Bachmann specifically allowed for it, then their crankpin system, and whole assembly/disassembly process would have to be relatively idiot proof. As it is, there are sources for the appropriate wheel from the aftermarket trade, and those who are that bothered can go out & buy a set to swap across.

Hi Ian, welcome aboard - glad you've enjoyed the thread! There were a couple of different types of ammonia tanker (there were two types of ammonia transported, and each type had a couple of variants through time). The Hornby WD tanker can be used and was seen on this traffic flow, but the more bulbous tank (as shown by Tom in this topic) has also been covered by Dave Franks on his Wharfeside thread, this post covers the build: Tom - did you use a similar method to Dave? Or if not, it would be interesting to hear what bits you used. Dave's topic does have a few more prototype photos, and references to articles in Railway Archive No's 9, 11, 15, 16

Whilst I agree with the sentiment that this is the Judith Edge Kits thread and should be focussed on produce available from them, I personally have found the hijack useful - and wouldn't mind learning more (either here or on a diversionary thread). To date I have used the London Road gravity riveting tool, but have an upgrade on the radar at some point and had the GW version in mind. Therefore learning from other peoples experiences in either which alternatives work better for them, or ways to improve the GW option, are invaluable. This does relate to the tools and methods of making the most of Michael's kits, so isn't completely off topic in my opinion.

Thanks for covering this technique in the detail you are - I have some setts inside my loco shed to sort, which are quite different to any commercially available. For some reason I was shying away from home made options, but you're showing that it is perfectly achieveable (and can always be reapplied for take 2 as necessary!).

Yes, I currently have one of those fitted to my Craftsman kit, and it is a nice casting - but from the views in photos it looks like the Stanier chimney is taller. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be covered in the drawings in the wild swan book, so it is all down to comparing angles and perspectives on photos!

Does anyone know of a source for these chimneys? Alan Gibson Gibson don't appear to, & nor do 247, from what I've seen. Gibson do the Deeley variety.

I know you've been supplied the dimensions Dave, but for what it is worth here are a couple of photos of mine. It rolls quite happily with a straight wheel swap. The brake shoes clip into slots, so I am widening the slots to reseat them - the other option would be to remove part of the brake moulding so they sit flat on the base. The floor clips out of the body too, so easy to add a guard etc. One thing I have noticed is that the choice of number for R6909A looks to be wrong. According to 'The acquired wagons of British Railways, volume 1' by David Larkin M731792 was built unfitted (page 77) and also appears in the list of those vans 'never vacuum piped' on p81. R6909 was also built unfitted, but isnt in the latter list so was presumably fitted in the mid 1950s.

Having gone across to find it, here is the link should anyone else not want to get distracted by the rest of the thread on the way! I like the Cambrian LMS vans, but don't particularly like the solid brake lever bracket. Craig Welsh levers are available from the Scalefour Society (available to non-members at Scalefour North & Scaleforum), but appreciate they do take a fair bit longer than gluing on the supplied part!

Apologies - I've checked what I have and they aren't quite right. I have Ultrascale LNER 3'8" 10 spoke for the Radials, and LNER 5'8" 18 spoke 11" crankpin throw between spokes. The obvious problem isn't so much the spoke count, but that even numbers line up opposite each other so that difference is more immediately obvious. The other option would be a 5'6" Crab wheel as a worn option - but while being 17 spoke and 13" throw has the crankpin in line.

I got some from Ultrascale, I think aimed at a GWR prototype but certainly the right spoke count & crankpin throw. (Timescales of my last order, placed at the end of November, was under 2 months)

I've never had an issue with T-cut, but known to be careful around transfers which don't want removing. Always interested in finding easier or better ways though - is there a specific variant of turtle wax you use? I see there are some labelled as 'restorer' which presumably have the same small abrasive bits to remove transfer which don't want removing - is there a gentler version?

It looks brilliant Tim. Is the base colour original Hornby? Presumably with varnish/klear/T-cut to bring out the sheen? When you say re-wheel this confuses me - is the Hornby driving wheel not a better rendition than others available?