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  1. Hey, so i'm trying to repaint my Hornby henry into a more realistic looking model and the tender chassis frame has always had an issue since day 1 that the frame is completely green, my plan is to strip it and respray it black and apply appropriate green and red where i need/want it. so far ive left it submerged in methylated spirit for about half an hour, but there isn't any signs its even started working, like normally half an hour you get some gummyness of the paint or something but there doesn't seem to be any at all, have i made an error in judgement? do i need to put it in white spi
  2. theres deffo a few things i'll be getting from this lot, Police Boxes are top of the list also, really nice to see the analogue controller go back to its routes a little bit, the silver controller just looked wrong after years of the the old wedge black with red knob design, might be looking into them concidering i'm starting to get failures after like 5 minutes use on an electrotren 0-6-0 loco or even a Bachmann thomas loco, doesn't matter who makes it or how modern, i think ive worn the poor dears out being my main controllers for years, last one i got was nearly 10 years ago now, or j
  3. i'll fix the above post at some point, and i will hopefully carry on with this in the near future, but sort of halted production, still working out how to do a couple of bits
  4. oh... well, heres the constructive criticism i can give 1) use either Games Workshop or Revell paints or something like that from a model shop, the cheap supermarket paint really shows 2) use ACTUAL decals, bits of paper just glued to the sides are not decals, its just bits of paper stuck to the side of a model 3) when doing running boards its best to do the flat layer first, get it situated as perfectly as you can, filler it and then put the edging on underneath, it looks as though you've tried to do both at the same time and it actually sort of shows 4) try not to chop up per
  5. Hello there, welcome to my WIP CakeBox Challenge Thread. This Diorama is based around one dockside area seen in the 4th Series episode of Thomas The Tank Engine & Firneds "Special Attraction" later appearing in the Music Video for "Gone Fishing". The plan seems simple enough, even on paper, it's 2 areas of track, 1 higher than the other, at a dockside somewhere on the North Western Railway, Presumed to be Brendam Docks but unsure as of writing, no pointwork needed just some flexi-track cut to size, a couple of set track pieces and 6 Custom Buffer Sets, well it's not so simple as
  6. honestly the Red Maunsell type were pulled by 2-5, 6, 8-10, so if you were told off for that then the kid is clearly too young to have seen the model era, i'll just give a quick run-down so that you can counter some of the kids that think they know it all Thomas, Annie (facing bunker), Clarabel (facing the open track), Sodor Mail Coaches with or without brakevan, and The trucks Percy: A&C as before but with a brakevan added to the end, Sodor Mail Coaches with or without brakevan, and The Trucks James: A&C, Red or Green Maunsells, Trucks Henry: R/G Maunsells, Trucks Gordon: R/G Mauns
  7. Hello, I am currently in the planning stages of making an O-16.5 Talyllyn & Skarloey out of card ( or "Cardboard" if you talk to Cardboad John ( I'm part of the same club as him, if you were at the cotgrave show you'll likely have seen my thomas running about ) ) and i simply do not know where i can find parts like funnels and filler caps etc, all i can find are kits and i don't really want to have a cast metal kit ex-details that then does nothing apart from gather dust. I know what chassis i'm going to use ( a Bachmann Percy chassis is an almost spot on fit to the plans i have ) it's
  8. no, i tired it the way i thought it might work though and its basically as simple as putting it on the DC powersource and it acts just like it would without the chip in apparently. however nothing has been said anywhere about it, not even in the manual.
  9. has anyone tried the DC function it says it has, can't find anything on it anywhere
  10. thr diode (circuit) board is not needed so long as you rewire red and then the corresponding one opposite red first tand then do black afterward so it is wired the exact same way as it looks on the board ... never cross the streams (wires)
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