pinzaboy

Hi Here's a couple of photos to give an idea

Well I can't vouch for the actual scale precision, but I very successfully used mesh from a frying pan anti spatter guard! I know it sounds an unusual thing but you can get them in the pound shops in the cooking utensil section. They are like a big fly swatter with a handle and the idea is you put the large mesh area over the frying pan when cooking and the mesh catches any spitting fat. I simply cut the mesh from it with a Stanley knife. Then I cut the mesh into strips, then into individual panels. The panels were easy to fit to the plastic posts with super glue. I used brass rods across the top to mimic the barbed wire. Tim

Looks great. I would never have even thought of spacing the sleepers but it makes a huge difference. Do you think I'd hit problems splitting the sleepers up on flexitrack which was formed in,say,a 2nd radius curve? I've always imagined the sleepers helped maintain the curve. Thanks Tim

That is a terrific layout and the viaduct is simply marvellous. Great work. Tim

I had one last week and I duly paid the £2. It arrived today - it was from Dapol advising my collectors club subs were due. It had no stamp or frank machine mark at all

Hi all Thanks so much for all the advice. Really informative. Tim

Thanks Mike Much appreciated Tim

Double sided tape. Never thought of that. Great idea. Cheers!! Tim

Hi I'm going to try and scratchbuild a bus depot and thought I'd use styrene sheet covered in slaters embossed brick sheet. I was wondering which glue would be best to use on this project. I have poly cement and a bottle of limolene (which I have never used). I'm concerned that if I use the wrong glue the plastics may warp over time. Many thanks Tim

I've sometimes seen Tyne Yard referred to as Tyne S.S. Does anyone know what the S.S stands for? Thanks

Wow. That was great. And was that really a buffet I saw in that thumper unit? Never knew that. Thanks very much for posting! Tim

Much appreciated

Thanks for that! Looking forward to an update Tim

Hi I wonder if anyone can advise if the following Tue/Thur RHTT workings are DRS class 20s? 0649 Sheffield to Sheffield 0825 0912 Sheffield to Sheffield 1117 1140 Sheffield to Hull 1434 1444 Hull to York And,do these workings lay over between trips at Sheffield Station? Many thanks in advance. Tim

Cheers Bill I'll take a look

Thanks. And since no one has posted a pic we can take it as a definite no!

Hi Does anyone know if there was ever any class 31s with full yellow end that were painted green all over with the white body stripes painted over? I know there were some green peaks where the bodyside stripe was painted out and wondered if it extended to class 31. Many thanks Tim

Looks great. Well done and the headcodes look fantastic. Tim

I'm very pleased with mine, but there were no discs in the box to complete the model. Is the 40 supplied without discs, or was I just unlucky? Fortunately I have a supply of old Lima discs that did the job! Tim

Hi Guys I have purchased the Green version and here are my thoughts: For: Excellent rendition of the real thing All the small extra parts fit beautifully into the holes with no need to open them out. (Unfortunately, there was one pipe missing from the bag). Lovely smooth runner Problems I have encountered: In DCC causes a short on some Peco insulfrog points When removing the body to fit decoder watch this one - as the body lifts off the part inside which has the small light lense poking through the body broke off. It is a really delicate part and once its broken, so are your lights. It would seem almost impossible to predict this unfortunate damage unless you know in advance how the model is constructed. In fact the whole thing is not helped by some sticky black material which either holds things together or stops light bleed. Or both. Anyhow, no little lights on my Western! The headcodes - enough has been written about them already. But as has been said before, the Heljan Hymek codes fit very nicely and make all the difference to the front end. Hope this is of interest. Despite the problems I have mentioned I love it, and will be getting the blue and maroon versions too! Tim

Hi Here's a photo of D6331 all-valanced-up and ready to go! The valances come in 10 separate pieces (5 each side) and are numbered on the back so that, armed with the instructions, you know which part goes where. They are a simple push-fit between the chassis and the body.The middle piece on each side (Number 3) will not stay in place for love nor money, so I have used a small piece of blu tack to secure them in place. I have not used the headcodes supplied with the model as they don't look quite right to my eyes, so I've fitted my own. No idea what 9F12 is or was but it looks OK to me! Cheers Tim

Hi I've read all the thoughts about the headcode box and the size of the characters. Got the driver to wind them round for a quick freight onto the LM and returned to the ER with a special. Seems OK to me!! Tim

I've got the GFYE and the blue version. Very nice. What amused me was the fact that on the blue version one of the sand pipes was broken off and someone had stuck it back on with a big piece of masking tape!!! Honest!!! Agree with northendboy about being slow but it isn't a problem. Overall I'm delighted. Tim

My prodigy also has the SVDA issue. It will short, show SVDA, and then trains keep running until the base unit is switched off. When you switch it on again, obviously power is restored but no trains actually move until you call them up on the handset and alter the speed control by at least one notch. And I fully agree with Barry Ten, it will not consist whatever you try!! Regards Tim