Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

50 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Perth, Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I may have left this on the benchtop too long
  2. I seem to have a little more time on my hands than usual. So many workfronts open at once - although that is the idea to a certain extent - but I thought I would try to get the complete loop in place which means building the viaduct :
  3. Thanks for the info. So that's actually pretty useless against the DCC Concepts 8 point unit that switches the point and does the polarity thing. I thought it was too good to be true and it was !
  4. That is good news. But just in case and out of curiosity anyway can someone provide some quick advice about the Digikeijs DR4018 Does it only switch the point or does it also provide a capability to switch the frog polarity. I couldn't easily tell and I've written to them twice but they've decided not to bother even answering.....
  5. I have a follow-up on this old topic. That engine shed was rebuilt at some point to have stepped end walls rather than a pitched roof (I assume, the end wall was previously pointed and looked like classic GNR). My questions is - what was the roof like in the rebuilt version? I have few photos - just a couple - but what it looks like from the South end is a stepped end wall with some kind of pitched roof behind because you can see the angle edge of it going across the corner of one of the steps on the west side. But in another photo showing the east side of the shed from a little further away it looks like there is a venting gap running the length of the shed ie roof visible from west side is higher than what little can be seen on east side such that the gap between the two would presumably allow for smoke to exit. I'm wondering if there is a short pitched roof on both sides reaching only some way across the span on each side with another higher roof then covering the gap but with some separation so that the length of the shed has a vented facing both east and west along the length of the roof. Hope that makes sense. Alternatively there is an asymmetrical rood with a pitch running from the west side and finishing to the east of the building centre line at a height that is above the short (pitched or otherwise) rood leading up from the east wall. This would provide for the long vent arrangement but only on one side of the building ie facing east. But I can't really imagine they would have built something like that Does anyone have a direct memory of this building?
  6. For the benefit of others - it looks like removing the spray mount glued sheets is relatively easy if the backscene is rubbed over with white spirit; after a few moment of that soaking in the backscene sheet peels off ok
  7. Thanks all DavidCBroad It is a monster but I’ve started so I’ll finish. Or fall trying. That said there is much to do but it is at least progressing again. I try to keep a few work fronts open at once so that there’s always something that can be done. The primary goal at the moment is to get the continuous loop in place and functioning although I’m a way off that at the moment…… The haulage performance on grades probably dates back a long way as an issue. I don’t find it’s a disaster now although diesels are a lot better than steam. The problem area is the end of the straight where there is both gradient and curve. But I take your point about weight – something else to add to the list. In terms of operation I’m hoping that a combination of ECoS and PC software will enable me to run it solo. Essentially it’s a huge figure of eight folded via a gradient. It should be possible to run mainline continuously if desired while separately goofing around in either yard separately. Of course without DCC the whole thing would be impossible Jukebox Noted re lacquer thinners thanks. I will compare with IPA. And who knows graphite might make cleaning unnecessary…. Andy H and Damo There are immense gaps that will never be sealed as such. In essence the area above the track is lined internally with foil type sheets but the areas below baseboard level or away from the layout at all remain entirely unlined. As it’s a tile roof and a windy environment in Perth this still means a) the loft remains ventilated b) a fair amount of crud moves around the loft space. I agree re the saltwater vapor as well but it is what it is in that regard. I thought the lining measures might be enough but they aren’t. Hence the first protection steps are required and I intend to find some lightweight close weave material to use as a cover when not in use. Not ideal probably but the only option
  8. I may go with a slight alternative. Cleaning train 1 to have the IPA and wipers and run on the mainline loops only. Train 2 to be the Dapol in vacuum mode so it’s short and easier to run everywhere. All following an initial clean and polish for all track – both existing and yet to be installed. As for the graphite this can initially be an experiment in one of the yard spaces only. Ongoing cleaning there can be vacuum only and then I can see whether use of graphite coating and nil cleaning thereafter actually works. If it does then clearly expand to everywhere else !
  9. I was more focussed on the Beeching side of it. Click through to the link the bloke involved made. That is more pertinent. Here it is http://www.ukpol.co.uk/andrew-adonis-2019-speech-to-the-ippr-on-reversing-beeching/
  10. OK so I keep up to date with UK news but nowadays I live in Australia so I might be a bit behind the curve here; you might all be aware of this topic already. but I came across this https://amp-theguardian-com.cdn.ampproject.org/c/s/amp.theguardian.com/business/2019/oct/06/without-the-beeching-report-there-might-not-have-been-brexit Wow. I think.
  11. I'm sure this will have been covered in some form or another a few times but I've been doing some research and thought it might be an interesting topic. I have a potentially large layout in a loft space about 600m from the coast. I say potentially because its debatable whether I’ll ever finish it……..but let’s hope for the best…. See here : https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/22986-hatfield-part-the-second/page/2/&tab=comments#comment-3514265 This thing has been on the go for ages with a huge pause caused by employment related issues. And so on getting back into it I find there is oxidation of the NS rail sufficient to stop the thing functioning at all. It’s not like I wasn’t aware of the likelihood of this. I bought a CMX and a Dapol cleaner with the intention of making a cleaning train and that is still the idea except that now I’m at a place where it needs a decent clean before even bothering to try to run anything. I have been investigating options and thinking about the whole strategy because it need a cunning plan. My thoughts follow and I’d be interested to know what you all think about this. Fundamentally there are three goals, preferably to be achieved with minimum effort : Recovering trackwork to runnable status Maintaining existing and further trackwork in a runnable status - cleaning the track Maintaining existing and further trackwork in a runnable status - preventing the track getting dirty The fact that some trackwork is going to be harder to access also needs to be considered. Based upon a lot of googling and some direct experience I have formed the view that : Generally, track cleaning rubbers are deemed to cause scratches on the rail surface that retain dirt. Some of them crumble and leave remnants IPA is great for cleaning but not for removing oxidation 1200 grade removes oxidation well but no doubt see first pt above Mag wheel polish works well having experimented applying with one of those washing up scourers that has a mini nylon “brillo” and a handle that would hold and dispense detergent in normal use. But have to be careful not to apply too much or there is white deposits left over. Provided the polish is used sparingly the scourer is probably better as it is a) a scourer and b) generally flat helping prevent overlap. Using a cloth increases the tendency to spread spare polish on the sides of the rail Dapol generally only deemed good as a vacuum. Mine still in its box CMX considered great. I haven’t ever actually used it so far…… Graphite pencil on cleaned rail top works and supported online by those who have tried it Plan : Recover existing track Obtain DCC concepts fine track cleaning block (probably) and restore existing track through use of this and 1200 grade all used as gently as possible Follow up with polish of rail tops using mag wheel polish Complete by applying graphite to rail tops Maintain the track Build a battery powered cleaning train comprising loco switchable between battery and DCC and otherwise comprising CMX with IPA, Dapol in vacuum mode, possibly another wiper truck and a coach with pick-ups to provide extra power reliability when in DCC mode. Use a RC car LiON battery, 7.2V. Speed test might be an issue Separate track and point control DCC so that points can still be operated and run the train around using battery power if necessary Potentially have a 2nd train with simpler config to run around in sequence And I suppose revert to track cleaning block if there are any persistent issues but if this happens it sort of implies fail Protect the track(/layout) acquire some synthetic close weave fabric to cover layout when not in use keep rolling stock wheels clean using a rolling road of some sort There are many people who say that once the rail top is polished and/or coated with graphite then they have never really needed to clean it again. I think the above measures should be effective but I’m wondering whether the cleaning trains use of CMX will just clean off the graphite leaving that whole step pointless………………
  12. Gradually re-starting progress on the bit-more-off-than-you-can-chew layout
  13. It looks like the killer fail was to not prime the wood before attempting to glue. A nightmare now because you can guarantee that some parts will have stuck fantastically and removing these and any glue remnants will be a nightmare. /sigh
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.