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Everything posted by figworthy

  1. An interesting picture in many ways. Not sure exactly what the barges are (I can think of several options), but at least two of them seem to have taken an interesting warp. Adrian
  2. A few bits ordered yesterday morning, and they arrived this morning. Very happy customer. Adrian
  3. We were heading up the River Lee, when word reached us that Hertford Lock was out of use. On getting there we could see why. A boat heading downstream hadn't stopped in time, and had hit the bottom gates with such force that they had turned them inside out (i.e., they were now pointing downstream). that must have been an interesting experience for whoever was on the boat. Adrian
  4. Ah well, if we've moved onto epic canal cruises ... Parents launched their (home fitted out) Norman 23 in 1975, and sold it in 1988. In between times, it did pretty much everything that could be done at that time (a few bits of the BCN and the middle levels were missed). I can't remember which years, but they picked up two Silver Swords along the way. Mention of the Bridgewater brings back the memory (1975) of the swing aqueduct being clipped by a passing ship when we were the "wrong" side of it. At the time, the only alternative route back to Leeds was via the Trent & Mersey and Trent, which we didn't have time for, so it ended up on the back of an artic for a journey from Lymm to Burnley (which meant we missed the ascent of the Wigan flight). Shortage of water brings back memories of the long hot summer of 1976. The summit of the Staffs & Worcs was short of water, and we hit what (according to local legend) was a 45 gallon drum full of concrete, which damaged the stern drive, resulting in another trailer ride (this time all the way), that was on the day the rains came. The drum was supposedly a left over from a scaffolding bridge that was rigged up in the midst of the chemical works at Four Ashes. Going back to the programme in question, I've missed one of the episodes, but like others, I've been a bit disappointed with both the content, and the production quality. I don't remember learning anything that hasn't already been covered in similar programmes. Adrian
  5. T'was a very pleasant evening, and I suspect most there would not have been playing the numbers game on the costs (which I'm pretty sure was less than you'd expect), I certainly wasn't. Adrian
  6. Thanks. Until I get some more crank pin nuts, I'm a bit limited in what I can do. There is currently a delay on those. See : Markits would have been the preferred option, but they don't have the right sized wheels in their range. Once I'm able to make more progress with this, I'll report back. Adrian
  7. That is a different Withington. The one that you are showing here is on the GWR route between Hereford and Worcester. Adrian
  8. I had an invite to a 60th last week. The marque was bigger than the Manor House :-( . Adrian
  9. Many years, I was sailing in the depths of winter. Being a wimp, I was wearing a dry suit. My crew was one of the ladies from the club, who was wearing a wetsuit. I asked her if she would be warm enough, to which she replied that she would be fine as she had her personal layer of blubber. Adrian
  10. The conversation I had with Colin was to place a small order. I did make the point when I placed the order was that it wasn't very urgent (i.e., not to rush down the post office that day). 15 days later it hasn't arrived. I fully understand (and support) the comments about small traders, so this isn't a moan, just a "for info" post. Adrian
  11. The wheels and crankpins / bushes / nuts all came from Gibson's as part of the same order. The pins are counter sunk, and are screwed in from behind, as you describe. Captain Kernow has one that appears on his Callow Lane layout (scroll down the link for a couple of photos) Adrian
  12. Moving a bit from hedges, I regularly cross a private lane, which looks as though it rarely has any form of traffic. Adrian
  13. Short of making some new rods, I'm not sure that I can dispense with the bushes. In this case the crank pins are brass rather than steel, but I take your point. As for a write up, oddly enough I have taken some pictures as I've gone along, largely for my own reference purposes. I'd have to have a look at them and see if they are any good (I seem to have the knack of taking out of focus pictures). Adrian
  14. I had a session at the workbench this morning, and the progress such as it was is as follows. I've removed the motor so I can wind the mechanism over by hand. I didn't measure the internal diameter of the bushes or the diameter of the pins. Whilst the bushes are loose on the pins, the amount of play is not huge, certainly smaller than the diagram posted above by @Miss Prism (which I accept may have been for illustrative purposes). I removed the right hand rod and had a bit of a play with it. I can now spin the rod around the bushes, so they are no longer tight. I also measured the distance between the holes (as suggested by @Portchullin Tatty). I then replaced the rod, and repeated the process on the other side. The right hand rod's mean measurement is 21.96mm, and the left hand rod's is 22.00mm. I forget to measure the distance on the pins. Having got it all reassembled, I started to turn the wheels over by hand, and for most of the time it appeared to be smooth, but I would get the occasional bind, this was with the left hand rod at "quarter to". I then had a minor disaster. I heard a ping, and one of the crank nuts had come off (as did the bush). I managed to find the bush, but not the nut. I've no spares, but I do have some on order. I hadn't loctited the nuts, partly because I was expecting to be taking things apart on a regular basis at the moment, and partly because I'm trying to avoid getting things stuck together. However, it occurs to me, that as I'd tightened the nut, something must have slackened it, which I'm guessing was the bush, in which case, it can't have been rotating on the rod as much as expected. Regarding the straightness of the pins, so far as I can see, they are straight. Thanks again for the suggestions.
  15. I had three shots of Morphine a few years back after I had a bad back spasm, rather inconveniently I was 200 miles from home at the time and I think it was judged as being the only way I could be moved back home. Apart from a bit of nausea at the time (which I was warned about), it was OK. I felt no pain for the next 18 hours (when it started to wear off, things were rather different). I was driven back home whilst still under the influence, and whilst I felt no pain, I could feel every change in speed or direction. Big H might be interested in watching BBC2 at 2000 on Sunday. Adrian
  16. Thanks. Without a close look (which won't happen tonight), I can't say how loose the bushes are on the pins. If nipping the nuts is likely to be a problem, would having them almost nipped up, enough to stop the bushes sliding up and down the pins, solve the problem ? I can see that nipping the nuts would stop (or restrict) the bushes from rotating on the pins, which they'd need to do if they are tight on the rods. Adrian
  17. You're not the first to suggest that, and I'm sure that there is something in that. Adrian
  18. The rods have been opened up with a broach, that might be an issue as it is right at the at the thick end of my second biggest broach, but the biggest is far to big for that job (that's for opening up for wheel bearings). The crankpin bushes do fit into the holes, but they are a snug fit (unlike the bushes on the pins). I went into this build under no illusion that the kit would "fall" together and work straight away, so I was expecting it to be a learning experience. Yes there are. Thanks for the suggestion. As for Missenden, I'd love to be able to go this autumn, but I'm already double booked that weekend. Adrian
  19. Thanks for the tip. In this case there is a noticeable difference in the wheel base between the front and back pair of axles, so I'm pretty sure that I've got the right pair of rods. Lack of progress report, I didn't have time to investigate further today, hopefully over the weekend. Adrian
  20. Thanks for the various replies, they give me something to work with. The wheels are Gibson's (the only ones available in that size), and the quartering jig is the GW models one. Noting the comment about long crank pins, the pins had already been shortened to length. I think before going any further, I'll remove the motor so that I can turn the motion over by hand, that should make it a bit easier to detect the tight spot(s). Adrian
  21. I phoned and left a message yesterday afternoon, I had a call back this morning. Adrian
  22. I'm part way through building a High Level Barclay 0-6-0 (my first attempt at a full loco kit), and I've got to the point of testing out the motion gear. The chassis is rigid, and was built using a Poppy jig, with the motion rods placed on the ends of the dummy axles. The wheels were quartered using a jig. I've got the motor and gearbox installed, and it is driving the rear axle. As the final drive gear was tight on the axle, I haven't added the grub screw yet (but will do on the final assembly). The plan was to run it without rods, then with the rear rods, both sets of rods, and finally with the cylinder rods, moving on a stage when it runs smoothly. With no rods connected, that works fine. I've run it for an hour or so at various speeds and in both directions, and it is nice and smooth. Today I put the rear rods on (making it a 2-4-0) and it isn't good. On every revolution it appears to be binding at one spot (same point in both directions). The bind is sufficient for the final drive gear to slip on the axle. Suggestions are welcomed on where to start looking. Thanks Adrian
  23. And going back to poles This shiny bracket and fittings appeared on my local pole a couple of weeks back. Adrian
  24. Returning to hedges, I spotted this on my morning walk. Not really a hedge, but certainly a boundary. Adrian
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