MarcD

I ordered some transfers in October I'm still waiting for them. I have chased them a few times but still nothing. Marc

Fumble fingers

The name for those who are not ofay with the work of Dylan Thomas is the name of the town in his play for voices "Under Milk Wood" and the joke can be found by reading it backwards. The story so far. About 2 years ago I started building a 0-16.5 shunting puzzle layout based on Wharf station at Tywyn on the Talyllyn. I build all the wagons form my own kits. So far so good I hear people say. Base board built, the track went down, wagon turntables printed. All was going well until I turned to locos. This was when things started to unravel very quickly. I bought a peco Talyllyn and a Branch line chassis to go with it. I started to build it against a drawing as well as the instructions only to find that the loco was 16mm longer than it should have been and it had a footplate where there shouldn't have been. At that point the project was put on ice and stacked at the back of the workshop. Scroll forward 18 month and Bachmann announced they are going to produce NG7 quarry locos and they should be available by the end of this summer. So the project is back on.

All they would need to have done is to make provision to move to wheels in to 14mm from 16.5mm. Marc

I have a part built 0-16.5 layout so these are just what the doctor ordered. I would be nice if they could be converted to 0-14 in the longer term. Marc

Most don't have the buffer housings as part of the print this one was picked at random. Marc

First 2mm wagon test print. It's a NBR 3plk what do people think? The other wagon is a 4mm LBSCR 4ton ballast for scale

Everything that is available in 4mm is printed. Some should be ok to reduce in scale but others might end up a bit thin. I have scaled a NBR 3plk centre door. Marc

I will have a go at printing a NBR wagon this evening. You can only try and see what happens.

Yes, tried it with no couplings, 3 link and my own Flippems couplings. The automatic couplings are clear and not binding. The bigger the loco the bigger the problem. And according to the BR track manual and scaling them down the should be 56mm long and Infront of the frog. I get away with it as I have my ballast so high it acts as a check rail.

Yes I did and then I designed some auto couplings to operate with the curve. I'm not going to use them again. They need bigger check rails.

I made a similar change to the points I used on W C Boggs I'm still using dead buffered stock shorter than 15ft6 LOH. The problem isn't the frog or the reverse curve it's the size of the check rails and where they have been positioned with respect to the frog. They should be about 3x longer and be in advance of the frog so they guide the wheels round the curve. Marc

If you want to buy RTR track the streamline point's are ok. If you want to build your own then Greenwood pint kit are not bad. Rule of thumb for 0 gauge standard locos and stock 6ft radius points minimum radius. You can go down to 4ft but you're looking at industrial layout and short 4 wheel stock. Marc

Only advice I would give is don't use peco o gauge set track. They are far to tight for anything other than small dead buffered stock and the check rails are in the wrong place and about a 1/3rd of the length they should be. I used them on my current micro and I'm wishing I hadn't. Marc

Never tried but I can't see why some can't be done in 2mm. Marc