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Argos

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About Argos

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  • Location
    Leekish
  • Interests
    LNWR in the Buxton area in 7mm
    Callander & Oban in 2mm
    with more than a passing interest in the North Staffordshire, Ontario Northland, the Manchester & Birmingham and just to keep things eclectic the Sligo Leitrim and Northern Counties Railway and the Midland Great Western Railway in Ireland (2mmFS 10.5mm gauge).....

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  1. I've been lurking on this thread since it started, I have been coming to the conclusion over recent months that I need to learn how to design my own etches. There are a couple of things putting me off though. I spend my working life on a computer (albeit driving spreadsheets) and enjoy the "hands on" aspect of the hobby as a welcome relief. I don't want to spend my hobby time back on the computer (the irony that I am doing just that at as I type this is not lost on me. ) I have used CAD packages, I did an AutoCAD course at work over a decade ago now and taught myself Tu
  2. I've just rechecked the reference photos I've used and the loop is adjacent to the brake cylinder. Phew!
  3. Hi Graham, To be honest I'm not entirely certain I've got it correct. I built it based on photos just looking at the position of the loop in relation to the side with the double Vee hangers (one side only). This loop is on the left hand side when looking the that side, however, it would seem that some of the vans have the vac cylinder mounted on the left rather than the right (or the double Vee hanger on the opposite side). I had a couple of goes fitting the push rod as I kept convincing myself it should be the other way round. I am no expert on LNER vans and defini
  4. Hi Graham, We'll have to agree to disagree on that one I'm afraid. These loops are very visible and included on R-T-R moulded chassis and most etched chassis I've come across albeit impressionistic in the main. I've no doubt these are slightly overscale, but to miss them off would leave the wagon underframe looking strangely bare. I'm glad the layout brings back memories of driving through Glen Ogle, the connection with place is one of the great things about modelling an actual location. Thanks Angus
  5. Hi Jim, I've probably described it wrongly. I can't find any clear photos on the web. I've used photos from "The 4mm wagon - Part 2" which has some nice photos of the vans as reference for build. the part I am referring to is the vertical protector on the brake linkage seen extending form the middle of the solebar by the vac cylinder in this drawing. https://railsofsheffield.com/products/23456/parkside-dundas-pc56-oo-gauge-lner-12-wheelbase-fish-van-kit and highlighted on this close up of my model. In all the photos I've
  6. I've not posted in a while, basically because I haven't been doing much modelling through the summer. As the season turns to autumn I've built a couple of van kits, to get my eye in so to speak. By the early 60s most of the photos of freight trains show a high percentage of van traffic. The beauty is in the variety of pre and post nationalisation vans used. The LMS variety are particularly diverse. I've built up two of the association's LMS van kits, one is missing its roof as I was too enthusiastic in thinning the plastic so will have to make a
  7. They're very nice Ian. How did you do the C shaped handrail? Are these etched? I ask as I am currently building some Irish carriages that need a similar shape handrail and have been puzzling about how to get them consistent. Even using a Jig I think I might struggle. Thanks Angus
  8. Thanks Ken, I shall look forward to that build. I'll be sure not blink in case I miss it!
  9. Which kit are you building Ken, there are several out there now? I have one on my to do list but haven't as yet decided which kit (and I've got a long to do list!). Thanks
  10. Hi Geordie Exile, You also need to keep the end of the iron tinned. Sometimes if the temperature is too high you loose the tinning and it will not pick up solder as you have described. The tip will look dull. I also found soldering against wooden surfaces quickly dirtied the tip so now use a mineral fibre soldering board which helps no end. When tinned and working effectively the tip will look shiny. My method (probably a thousand other better ways of doing it!) is to keep a small piece of brass (about the size of a penny) beside the workbench
  11. Hi Neil, Thanks, I'm glad you've got some enjoyment from the thread. I am currently focused on my 2mm scale modelling and this is likely to continue for the next couple of years as I have couple of layouts underway. Following the soaking that the boards got I've now scrapped all of them, even the original Three Shires Head board had to go as this was sagging between the framing leading to derailments. I still have the framework and most of the trackwork was salvageable so would be a quick job to relay. I may just rebuild this section, or might bui
  12. I'm really intrigued to see what this turns into Julia, I think you're keeping us in suspense on purpose!
  13. To be honest Bill, if people are prepared to order the existing etch why go to the bother of updating? Having access to the etches makes more models available to those who are prepared to expend a bit of effort producing something so are a welcome resource. We usually have a backlog of kits and projects so happy to wait for etches to be produced or enough orders to be received to fill an etched sheet to make it economic for the etches to be produced. Whether that's worth your while is a different question. I seem to recall I was interested in some items that
  14. Thanks for the recommendation Jim, To be honest, if I buy from a UK seller (to avoid the one and half month's wait for delivery from China and avoid the risk of VAT and import duty) then I would be paying about £6. The ones on the Amazon link are also available from UK Ebay sellers at less than £9 and have an LED light. Although I have two workbench lights I find myself occasionally using a head torch for additional illumination so the light will come in useful.
  15. Hi Mike, thanks, my original question was around the magnification used as otherwise the debate falls into personal preference. Hi David, like you I've been wearing glasses since I was a kid (I was actually sent to Barnard Castle for my first eye test..........) initially for distance, but as my eyes have got older I need near vision correction. Also like you I do seem to spend a lot of time at my modelling table with my glasses shoved on top of my head as the varifocals focus is too close or too far. I do finish up in slight stoop at the work table though.
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