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    Stone, Staffordshire

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  1. I have a Draper Expert 13500 Twin Combi Filter Respirator which is excellent, even when using pungent, solvent based spray paint indoors. Other makes are available, but I mention the brand and model which I have used so you can search it online and see what we’re on about! Davey
  2. Thanks for the helpful suggestions. Might get some time this coming week to select one of the mentioned methods and give it a shot. Davey
  3. I have just completed two Metcalfe card models and am wondering how best to “plant” them on the baseboard (6mm plywood) so that they appear to be built into rather than onto the ground? What advice could you give me please? Thanks Davey
  4. This support page will tell you all you need to know.
  5. A Digitrax DS64 will switch your Kato points. I am sure there are others, but I have used this one successfully in the past. Davey
  6. That would be some achievement...................... Thanks for pointing the error out, I've corrected the original post. Davey
  7. The pcb arrived eventually and I had a first stab at milling a frame. The result was quite good...any imperfections being a result of my lack of cad ability rather than the mill which appeared to cut the frame exactly as designed and, perhaps more surprisingly given the dainty nature of the MF70, exactly to size. Here is the result. The pcb was cut with a 1mm end mill of Chinese origin at a spindle speed of 8,000 rpm and a feed rate of 100 mm per minute. Davey
  8. Andy Sorry for the delayed expression of my thanks for your detailed reply...been busy! I have been threatening to create a scratch built chassis for a LNWR Special tank for ages now and have been drafting in Autocad for a while. I was going to make my first trial milled frames in 1/16 brass sheet, but have now been encouraged by your post to test the design of frames and spacers in FR4 initially. I ordered some PCB boards this morning so should be ready to go tomorrow or the next day. I have a Proxxon MF70 mill which I have converted to cnc, so I can mi
  9. This is very inspiring....may I ask what spindle speed and feed rate you used to mill the FR4 please? Thanks Davey
  10. I too would recommend Mr Color paints. They do smell a lot, but the coverage and smoothness of finish is exemplary. I use them with a Harder and Steenbeck and Iwata airbrushes without issues. Davey
  11. Moved on to cutting some brackets for the warehouse awning. I’m delighted with these as I know I could not do this with a knife. Others can, but I can’t! All cut with the 3d printer laser module from thick card that I bought in the Range following a “bargain” tip on here. Good way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Davey
  12. With its freshly applied window sills oozing glue and a newly added header strip, the Draxla warehouse is ready for weathering and then mounting at the back of the layout.
  13. And here is the assembled front. The laser was used to cut the windows from thin card and the window “holes” from the thick cardboard box material. I get a consistency that I cannot manage manually. Window sills and a roof next...then some dirt! Davey
  14. The laser would quickly burn the surface of the bed on the 3d printer, so you need something. My immediate solution was to cut some floorboards which I had bought for other reasons for 50p each in Wilko’s Charity bin! A couple of stops on either side to ensure it stays in place (and misses the mass of wires at the back of the Wanhao) and all was well. It does get singed sometimes, but the majority of this damage was done when I first started and was playing around with settings. Here it is on the machine. Here is the latest incarnation of the window, now cut in a fin
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