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Dungrange

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  1. Is this website any help - https://www.speakerimpedance.co.uk/?act=two_parallel&page=calculator Type in the power output of your decoder (into the Amp power). Then enter the ohm rating for the speakers you would like to use in the combination that you'd like to wire them (series or parallel) and it will tell you the total impedance of your speaker combination, which you can check against the decoder manual, and the power rating that the speakers you intend to use should be.
  2. The basics is probably once again down to reading the manual for the decoders that you are playing with - they should be on the manufacturer's website. The old ESU Loksound v3.5 decoders used 100 ohm speakers. The newer V4 and V5 versions, I think, work best with 4 ohm speakers, although if you use 8 ohm speakers they should still operate, but will be quieter. I think the Hornby TTS decoders use 8 ohm speakers, while the newer Zimo decoders use either 4 ohm or 8 ohm speakers, I can't remember which. If you're planning on using more than one speaker, then you'll need to ensure that you get a combination that meets the decoder requirements, which depends on whether you are wiring the speakers in series or in parallel. You'll also need to look at the power output of the decoder that you are playing with and ensure that you have a sufficiently powerful speaker (the Watt rating). Since you're using decoders for 0 gauge, they are likely to have a higher power output (sometimes 3 Watt), so you need to ensure you have speakers that are suitable.
  3. I'd agree that it sounds as though the two switch inputs (terminals 2 and 3) are connected to the wrong stock rails. When switching these over, did you change the connections on all 11 that don't work at the same time, or was the short a consequence of only swapping the connections on one turnout? Would it be worthwhile disconnecting the frog wires on all 11 turnouts that don't work and starting again with these one at a time, checking the polarity is correct on the first one you reconnect before moving on to the next one? Alternatively, is it possible to change the orientation of the motors that don't work to be the same as the one that does? Simply swapping the wires to terminals 2 and 3 should achieve the same thing, but if that doesn't work, then physically changing the orientation of the motor might (although I'm not sure why it should).
  4. I think @rab was just trying to be funny. Your title says 'duel' - which is an arranged combat between two people, whereas you actually meant to type 'dual' - meaning to have two purposes.
  5. Langley produce a 00 pack that contains Hippos, Bears, Seals and Crocodiles - https://www.langleymodels.co.uk/awd1/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=8417&search=Z03 I'm not sure how you tell the difference between and H0 seal and a 00 one. Alternatively, Preiser, produce an H0 seal - https://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/Physiques/Wild-animals/Preiser-29518/gb/modell_49750.html or https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/preiser-pr29518.html
  6. I'm confused as to why swapping the wires to terminals 2 and 3 causes a short. Assuming @Oldddudders and the diagram provided by @Dagworth are correct, my understanding of the Tortoise is simply that there is a switch that connects terminal 4 to either terminal 2 or terminal 3. Thus the frog will be connected to one or other stock rail. Irrespective of whether or not the frog polarity is correct for the direction of the switch blades, it should not cause a short (until a piece of rolling stock runs through the turnout). It's probably a stupid question, but have you definitely inserted isolated rail joiners on both rails at the V, so that the frog is completely isolated and only being powered through the switch on the Tortoise? Are these Electrofrog points being used as supplied by Peco, or have you modified the wiring under the turnout?
  7. I think you should be able to swap some of the functions on your ESU decoders around using Function mapping, so you could reassign the brake function to, for example, F2 if that's what you have on the Zimo decoder. That would of course mean moving another function to F5. Unfortunately, I can't tell you how to do that, although it is explained in the manuals on the ESU website. Basically, there is a series of CVs that define what each function button does, so you'd be swapping the values contained in the relevant CVs. I'm assuming that the coasting could be reduced by changing the deceleration CV (CV4), although presumably the current figure is optimised for the sound file.
  8. I agree that if such information was being provided then I'd see it as a breach of the General Data Protection Regulations (GDPR), but I note that the domain name of the sender isn't an active website, but the domain name is registered to a company (G C V PVT LTD) in Karnataka, India. Presumably it's just a scam designed to try and get you to part with some money to access some dubious data.
  9. No, but I wouldn't expect a deposit to be refunded if it was the customer who cancelled the purchase. Deposits are normally non-refundable. I'd only expect a deposit refund if the decision to cancel the order was taken by the retailer or manufacturer. Of course that's not to say that a retailer or manufacturer won't refund a deposit as a goodwill gesture, but I wouldn't expect it.
  10. Looking at Antics website (https://anticsonline.uk/Category/Peco-Track-O-Gauge_N475), the set track points seem to have a radius of 40". The next step up seems to be a nominal curve radius of 72", which is probably what you should be aiming for, albeit I note that the curved point has an inner radius of 68", so if you can't get to six foot radius, then I've thought that must be perfectly satisfactory. I don't model in 0 gauge, but in 00, I'm aiming for 30" minimum, so multiplying that by 7/4 would give a minimum of 52.5" - would that be achievable?
  11. I was aware that there are other detection methods and the existence of the DR5088RC although hadn't noted the higher current rating of that device compared to the DR4088xx series of detectors. I thought it was just the inclusion of Railcom that increased the price and I'm undecided as to whether or not I need that. My reason for looking at block occupancy detection is primarily to provide an indicator on a control panel as to whether or not a particular fiddle yard road is occupied or not rather than to be the eyes of a computer, but of course once the layout is up and running (probably in a few years time), I may change my mind, so thinking about putting any necessary rail breaks and track feeds in at the start to limit having to completely rewire in the future is what I'm pondering at the moment. I was also thinking about including feedback from the turnouts so that these can't be thrown when occupied. What sort of feedback device provides the turnout position indication?
  12. I think this is to ensure that you can create a new feed to whatever is beyond the frog so that all track is permanently powered. If you don't add insulated rail joiners, then whatever siding the turnout is not set for will go dead, which means that DCC Sound and lights will go off.
  13. Okay, but it's only rated for 3A use. I think the reference to 10A is simply that in a short circuit scenario, the DR4088 won't be damaged by 10A flowing through it very briefly before the DCC system shuts down. In my case, I think that would be suitable, provided I use a Circuit Breaker such as the PSX (https://www.coastaldcc.co.uk/products/dccspecialties/psx-powershield-x-2-block) to limit the current to the fiddle yard, as my DCC Command Station is capable of putting out 5A, which is more than the 3A continuous rating.
  14. Since I have similar questions to the OP I'll jump in here with a question of my own: can you clarify the distinction between 'blocks' and 'feedbacks', as I'm not sure I understand the distinction you're making. Is the distinction only within the computer software? I'm not sure whether I'll go as far as computer automation, but I may change my mind at a future date, so I've been giving future conversion some thought before I lay the track and start the wiring. I was therefore thinking about fitting, what I thought were block occupancy detectors like the DR4088 from Digikeijs - https://www.digikeijs.com/en/dr4088ln-2r-16-channels-s88n-feedback-module-with-l-net-cs.html, to monitor each fiddle yard road. My understanding of these is that there needs to be a single dropper wire from each track section to the DR4088, which is then connected to the DCC Power bus. In my case, each fiddle yard road is around nine feet in length (some are a bit longer), split across three baseboards, so I was assuming that I'd connect up a single DR4088 on the centre board and then carry 24 dropper wires (16/0.2 wire) for the twelve tracks across each of the two baseboard joins so that I'd only have one feed to each section (ie several droppers from the track all connected together before connecting to the DR4088). That would also mean that some of my block sections would be around 11 foot in length. However, your comments, along with those of @peach james, suggests that I would need shorter lengths of track connected to each DR4088 (ie I should use more than one DR4088), with each feedback section being shorter (ie possibly one DR4088 per board) so that many of my loops would have multiple feedback sections. Is that correct? Is the block the concept of the fiddle yard road, where the feedback is the process of detecting the time that the monitoring is triggered?
  15. The Medieval Castle is on that site that I linked to at £32.99. Having looked at few on Amazon as well, they seem to be much the same cost as buildings from other sources. I think it's probably the roofs that would make many of them not that suitable for use as British buildings.
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