locoman462
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Posts posted by locoman462
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Any ideas as to how long the dynamometer car actually lasted in BR service? I only seem to find a vague reference to the 1950s.
Cheers.
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Nimbus on the move! Just been pinged to confirm my Nimbus order from DEC 2019 is with DHL for delivery tomorrow.
Roll on Tuesday.
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The wiring expert at Rainhill MRC has come up with a simple fix to solve the ANALOG directional front lighting issue on GT3.
TENDER; Locate 4 way plug at front of chassis and remove black wire from position marked 'NF' (We chose to disconnect the plug and carefully push the wire out from the rear of the plug so it could be reconnected if DCC operation was required in the future). Connect a 2.2k resistor to the black wire. Carefully solder a short piece of wire to Pin 7 on the blanking plug. Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the resistor before soldering the blanking plug wire to the end of the resistor.
Test run the loco which should now show headcode lights only in forward direction and marker lights only in reverse direction.
LOCOMOTIVE; Change colour of the marker lights from white to red by either placing a small piece of translucent red sweet wrapper between the LED and lens in the lower half of lighting unit at thr front of the loco or alternatively, paint LED red.
As I didn't want the cab lighting feature, I blanked off the cab LED rather that cut the wiring to it.
REAR TENDER LIGHTS; These are unafected by the amendments to the loco front lights so I drilled a small hole just ahead of the rear axle just big enough to fit a small slider switch. I cut the red wire to the LED and joined the ends to the switch contact tabs. I can now choose to have the rear lights on when running light engine or off when pulling a train.
I hope that these instructions will be of use to those analog GT3 users. Whilst accepting that in all probability, the real GT3 would have used red lens oil lamps rather that the fitted electric lights, I think that this conversion is better than what the model came with.
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1 hour ago, Wagonmaster said:
Hi, unfortunately my 'fix' as described will only work for DCC as I am using the decoder for light switching and logic. You can modify GT3 to display your required lighting on dc/analogue, but it is different to my described wiring and will require the use of diodes and resistors.
I cut the NF wire close to the plug as I wanted as much cable as possible to re-route the wiring without fouling the tender body when it was replaced.
I did point out about voiding the warranty in my post.
Thanks Wagonmaster, I feared that might be the case. Appreciate your response to clear that up.
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19 hours ago, Wagonmaster said:
I came up with a solution for my GT3 which I think would satisfy your requirements in my post of April 2nd on page 78, if it's of any help?
Hi Wagonmaster, I am very interested in your lighting 'fix' as detailed in your post of 2nd April and would appreciate hearing your thoughts on a couple of points. Firstly, do you think that the re-wiring of the front tail lights as described will work in dc/analogue mode? I want to have the head code discs lighting up when running forwards and the lower front tail lights lighting when running in reverse. Secondly, can you please clarify the cutting of the NF black wire close to the plug. I assume that the new extended wire is soldered to the loose end of the wire coming from the loco/tender connector before re-routing as described. This makes the original NF plug connection redundant.
Your advice will be most appreciated.
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On 13/05/2021 at 15:44, locoman462 said:
My GT3 runs in DC/analogue mode and I am asking if anyone has solved the problem of the always illuminated directional lighting, in particular on the loco. I have seen the DCC fix suggested by Wagonmaster (page 78 of this topic) but am looking to sort out the headcode marker lights and the lower set of lights so as they only illuminate when the loco is moving in the appropriate
direction. It will be easy enough to chage the colour of the lower lights from the current incorrect white to red. I have been wondering if the introduction of diodes into the relative wiring might solve the problem. Any thoughts or comments would be most appreciated.
Further to the comments and advice from Wagonmaster, SGp and Barry O, I inserted diodes into the red and white wires at the front end of the loco immediately behind the LED housing unfortunately without any success solving the problem. In fact, they seemed to have no affect on the lights whatsoever. Both the headcode disc and lower directional lights performed as before. I did not put a diode in the black wire as this seemed to be a common return. I am now wondering if the exercise carried out by Wagonmaster on the Tender wiring to solve the problem for DCC operation might also work for DC operation but obviously without the ability to control use of same.
Like SGP, I have blanked off the cab and rear (tender) tail lights to stop them showing when hauling a train, but really would like the front directional lights to show red and the headcode lights not illuminate when reversing onto the train.
Unfortunately, I only have a basic knowledge of DCC ready / fitted wiring. Any further ideas would be most appreciated.
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My GT3 runs in DC/analogue mode and I am asking if anyone has solved the problem of the always illuminated directional lighting, in particular on the loco. I have seen the DCC fix suggested by Wagonmaster (page 78 of this topic) but am looking to sort out the headcode marker lights and the lower set of lights so as they only illuminate when the loco is moving in the appropriate
direction. It will be easy enough to chage the colour of the lower lights from the current incorrect white to red. I have been wondering if the introduction of diodes into the relative wiring might solve the problem. Any thoughts or comments would be most appreciated.
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Can anyone confirm if GT3 ran with a one man or two man crew. I assume that a two man crew (driver and secondman) was more likely in the early 1960s.
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2 hours ago, zr2498 said:
Thanks guys. I will have another look tomorrow as moving the handrails to the holes would mean the handrails have to splay out at the bottom. I will send photo to explain.
The exploded diagram of the parts is great. Was wondering about maintenance instructions. Lubrication and access to DCC chip etc. I'm particularly interested in the lubrication for the tender wheels as the electrical pick up is through the axles and wheel hubs (not wipers as per the loco). So would conductive lubricant need to be used.
David
PS The GT3 is really a marvellous achievement. More EOI's to go in!
Likewise, would appreciate information re. removal of loco and tender bodies for maintenace purposes. Also access to cab interior for painting etc, Any information regarding control panel and seat colours would be most appreciated.
Congratulations Keith and Michael on producing a stunning model of this iconic locomotive. Bodes well for future releases.
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Just got my T-o[F back from Grimy Times, having received a middle of the range weathering finish. I wanted to be able to see signs of the Brunswick Green finish under the grime. I think that Steve at GT has acheived this brilliantly. It looks even better in real life. I prepared the loco prior to weathering by applying two coats of Johnsons Kleer to liven up and darken the original Hornby green finish.
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2 hours ago, Dominion said:
The same person must have assembled my 60505 tender, as it had both those issues, though on only one of the weight fixing threads. Gordon, might the "spring" you saw have been the stripped plastic thread from the hole ? The rest of my 60505 was reasonably good though.
Sounds like a similar problem I found with my ToF when trying to select the short tender drawbar position. The drawbar needs to be turned round so as the alternative position is at the forward / loco end to avoid fouling the power connector plug under the tender. The screw holding the drawbar under the loco was incredibly tight and took time to remove. When out, I observed that the thread was damaged / mis-shaped and had stripped the corresponding thread on the loco, pulling out a spring like coil. I had to Loctite the screw back into the chassis after selecting the shorter drawbar position. The screw should never have been used in the first place given its damaged condition.
Peter.
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1 hour ago, gordon s said:
That’s a huge improvement and tempted to do the same.
Just one question though, can you still apply weathering powders on top of a coating of Klear?
Good quesion, I honestly don't know. Suggest a trial on something not important / spare bit of plastic sheet before moving on to £170's worth. I've not had a problem in the past when spraying weathering finish onto Klear.
Peter
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For comparisson purposes, I have treated my ToF to two coats of Johnsons Klear directly onto the out of the box Hornby rendition of Brunswick Green. I used a 10mm flat brush to apply the Klear to avoid possibility of streaking. The resulting colour is darker and certainly has a bit more life about it. I intend to weather the loco from it's current ex works appearance to an approx 4 weeks in service look and hopefully disguise the lining a little.
Peter.
I also took the opportunity to reduce the length of the cylinder draincock pipework to match the A2/2 locos.
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On 15/11/20 Pre Grouping Fan said;
Before I send an email to KR models, is the website showing lower prices for anyone else (125 for DCC ready and 207.5 for DCC sound) Also under DCC Ready its showing BR green and Brunswick as liveries instead of Black and Green.
Is it just me ?
I think you will find that the prices shown on KR Models website are net of VAT. Addding 20% to these prices will bring cost up to the actual purchase level. P&P also needs to be added.
Yes, for some reason. the website does offer the option of BR Green and Brunswick Green instead of Green and Black for the CC ready model. I am sure the former is an error which needs correcting by KR Models. I am certain that the correct livery options were shown when I placed my order earlier this year.
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I am amending appearance of my 3440 'City of Truro' to reflect the period it ran in BR days between 1959 to 1961 using photgraphs taken at the time. This has entailed removing the buffer beam number and also the need to repaint the 4 sand boxes in front of the splashers from GWR ( Brunswick ) Green to Indian Red to match the frames.
Whilst the sides of the sandboxes were obiously Indian Red, does anyone know if the tops and filler caps were the same colour or perhaps Black. It is difficult to tell from contemporary photos due to the angle they were taken at. Comments appreciated.
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1 hour ago, cctransuk said:
They are indeed - but can be adapted.
I fitted them to my own model by plugging the hole for the pin, and forming a hollow in the back to provide clearance for the crankpin nut.
It can be done - it just takes a little modelling; not everything that comes out of a packet is ready for immediate use.
Regards,
John Isherwood.
Thanks for the info John. Can you recall how you formed the hollow in the back without damaging the cap?
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On 06/06/2020 at 15:31, truffy said:
Personally, I think it’s too late and the model is at too advanced a stage In development. Those that are bothered by it will fix aftermarket. I’ll probably get the ModelU fix.
Just a word of caution re. Bearing Cap covers supplied by Modelu. I ordered a set as back up in the event that KRM do not supply same ( fitted or for customer fitting ) with the loco.
The caps received are small, solid, not recessed and I cannot see a way they could be adapted to fit over the crank pin nuts. They are almost certainly designed to fit Romford style crankpins.
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2 hours ago, cctransuk said:
These 'hub caps'. which I cannot guarantee will be obtainable, need to be fixed to the coupling rods - NOT the crankpins; they should not rotate with the pins, but remain static as part of the rods.
The 'hub caps' have a recess in the rear to provide clearance for the crankpin to rotate.
Fitting the 'hub caps' to the rods is fraught with opportunities to 'b*gger things up'; a tiny smear of superglue or epoxy resin needs to be applied around the edge of the 'hub cap', once it is in place on the rod, to secure it.
Too much adhesive and you have a static model! You have been warned!
As to obtaining the 'hub caps'; if Ian cannot oblige then they would be dead easy to produce for anyone with a 3D printer.
John Isherwood.
Need for caution duly noted.
Thank you.
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1 hour ago, cctransuk said:
The 'hub caps', which are resin castings, were supplied with the etched chassis kit, (intended for for the Golden Arrow GT3 kit), produced by Ian Macdonald of this parish.
John Isherwood.
Thanks for the info John.
Regards,
Peter-locoman462
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12 hours ago, gary_lner said:
Goos evening locoman I had a dig through and ive managed to find the post you were talking about.
https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/product/2279/
Hope that helps
Regards Gary
Thanks Gary, I think that i'll order a set just in case none are supplied with GT3.
Regards,
Peter - locoman462
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Posted 55 minutes ago (edited)
1 hour ago, KR Models said:
We can't do that due to a sizing issue.
Not sure that I follow that !
My model has conventional crankpins covered by resin-cast 'hub caps'; the 'hub caps' would be very easy to injection mould in polystyrene or ABS.
They could be supplied as a owner-fitted accessory.
John Isherwood.
Edited 44 minutes ago by cctransuk
I seem to recall some time ago that John posted about the 'hub caps' fitted to his kit built GT3 and mentioned were he had obtained them from. As I can't find the information now, can he enlighten us in the event that KR cannot supply same. Thank you.
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I am at a loss to understand why the keyboard warriors / assassins out there, having made their choice not to invest in this project, seem to think that they have a God given right to continue posting negative comments regarding everything KR Models say or do.
You are hardly showing any evidence of British fair play and it would seem that you are wishing the project to fail so you can shout out loud 'I told you so'! Will you still be around and big enough to say 'Well done, I got it wrong' when a good model of GT3 arrives next year?
Give KR Models a break and keep your non invested comments to yourselves.
Your negative attitude will hardly encourage future investors in our hobby.
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Regrettably, it is beginning to look like this project will hit the buffers in the next couple of weeks unless a sufficient number of modellers who may be sitting on the fence, sign up their expression of interest with KR Models. Please see statement on Facebook outlining current status.
If you want a GT3, now is the time to act. Not next week, next month but NOW.
I personably will be very disappointed to see this project fail and miss out on the chance of owning a model of this iconic locomotive.
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Has anyone given any thought to or alternatively sourced a supply of limestone suitable to make up loads for these wagons?
I never actually saw any of these trains in operation and all the photographs you see of the loaded hoppers suggest that the stone was very white in colour. None of the various types and colours of ballast / gravel etc. currently available seem to be suitable as an alternative.
I also took the opportunity to reduce the length of the cylinder draincock pipework to match the A2/2 locos.
OO Fell (Batch 2)
in KR Models
Posted
Towards the end of the FELL 1 topic, there was correspondence relating to the possibility / feasibility of 3D printed fittings to correct the errors in the body shell of the locomotive (nose grills, body side window
replacement grill, roof exhaust and water filler units etc). Did anything ever come to fruition and if so, from where?