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Chris Turnbull

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Chris Turnbull last won the day on January 25 2018

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  1. All the units are spray painted, either with cans or with a Badger airbrush. The technique is the same as in other scales, just a bigger area! Start with a white primer base and work to the dark side. The Anglia spruce green is available from Phoenix Precision Paints after I obtained the colour spec. from Anglia. The 170s were more difficult as the body colour changed spec. over time and I ended up choosing the nearest match from a range of car spray paints. I always spend a lot of time and effort getting the roofs right, both in detail and colour. This involves much standing about on footbridges waiting for the right unit to appear. Needless to say I only do this on warm summer days! I have never found a grey that quite matches modern roofs so the various greys on each unit were hand mixed until I had something I was pleased with. The 156 was the easiest if the lot - white primer from Halfords although. with hindsight, I should have used a satin white. Like the drawings, transfers were not commercially available when I started and that may still be the case. Some companies are a bit touchy about their commercial logos and guard them jealously. I hand-painted the Anglia logo on the first rendition of the 150 using Anglia letterheading as a guide. At the time the prototype units had not been painted so I based the livery on their coach livery. Shortly afterwards the prototype 150s were painted but in a different style to the coaches. I repainted mine and replaced the hand-painted Anglia logos with transfers kindly supplied by a friend. Peter Clark produces some excellent kits. I have never made any as they have always appeared after my scratchbuilt efforts but if I were starting today I would probably go down that route. Am I now tempted to build a 755 Flirt? I have thought about it but it is a big undertaking which could take several years to come to fruition. Anyway, Peter might produce a kit! Chris Turnbull
  2. Thank you for your kind comments. I attach the Model Rail article which I hope you find interesting, unfortunately only scanned in black and white, not colour. I would point out that the stock is all scratchbuilt, not built from kits. I have received several invitations for next year, Kettering (G0G show), Crewe (MI0G show) and Manchester. None in the south west, however. Obviously it all depends on how Covid 19 goes in the following months. Chris Turnbull Page 1.pdf Page 3.pdf Page 2.pdf
  3. Just got back after a few days away so apologies for the delay in replying. I agree with all that has been said. There are three things needed for a good solder joint - enough heat, spotless metal and flux which should stop the metal oxidising, all of which have been said already. If you are using a propane torch then you need to really clean the surfaces. A fibreglass brush is good but I would also use some emery or wet-and-dry paper. As Lacathedrale says, It [the brass] needs to be gleaming. Be generous with the flux and try again. Chris Turnbull
  4. That solder blob will give you nothing but trouble. It will not be easy to file and will clog your file which will need frequent cleaning. If it is not properly soldered the wrapper will become detached during the filing process and will spring apart. May I suggest you try a larger soldering iron or a propane torch? The larger the scale the more metal is involved and the more heat is required. I find that for Gauge 0 a 125 watt iron is usually large enough but for Gauge One I use a Sievert propane torch with a small burner. If properly heated the solder should flow into the joint and not need any filing. As I am sure you know, the surfaces to be soldered should be clean and a suitable flux used. Chris Turnbull
  5. How nice to see Gauge 2 receiving a mention in the hallowed pages of RMWeb. Tony Hobson had a splendid dual-gauge track as detailed in this article: http://www.viewing.com/Model Railways/Gauge 2/Keswick Lodge.html I ran there myself with my Gauge One stuff many years ago and found Tony a great host as well as being extremely knowledgeable. There was also an article in the winter 2020 edition of the G1MRA Newsletter & Journal, an excellent publication produced quarterly, detailing the latest news. As you can read, Gauge 2 may be a minority interest but, thanks to a few aficionados, it is not quite extinct. Good luck with your loco. Chris Turnbull G1MRA N&J 268 Gauge 2.pdf
  6. I think that is the case but I'm not 100 per cent sure. Perhaps there are those more knowledgeable than I who can answer this? Chris Turnbull
  7. Here's a copy of the Freight WTT for 14th June to 3rd October 1965 which you may find of use. I don't have the equivalent passenger WTT but you may find something for sale on the internet. You could also scour second-hand bookshops which is what I do. This will be in two tranches as the size exceeds the 10MB limit on RMWeb. Chris Turnbull Freight WTT 1965 L2-L9.pdf
  8. A garden railway does not have to be intrusive; properly designed it can be an asset to the garden. This is just such an example from the layout of a friend of mine, albeit in Gauge One, which complements the garden nicely. Chris Turnbull
  9. Had it lasted a bit longer the Southwold Railway would have made a prime tourist attraction. https://www.southwoldrailway.co.uk/ The coaching stock might have needed some improvement however. Here's Dr. Ian Allen's recollections in his book "55 Years of East Anglian Steam": "I can still remember my bitter disappointment at a journey in one of the tramway-type coaches. Passengers had to sit with their backs to the window, gazing at the passenger sitting opposite and owing to the narrow gauge, there was very little room for one's knees." Chris Turnbull
  10. Here's a couple of pages from the Permanent Way Institution's "British Railway Track" which you may find of use. This is the sixth edition so may be a bit out-of-date, the seventh is now available. Turnout baseplates.pdf You don't say what scale you are modelling in but I have made modern turnouts cutting Peco components to size. Here's an example in 7mm scale. As always, observation of the prototype is recommended. Chris Turnbull
  11. Thank you. It is important to wipe the rails with a rag dampened with white spirit immediately after spraying. If you leave it to dry you will make a lot of work for yourself. I can see your problem regarding 1900 type track but, on the other hand, no one can say you are wrong. I don't suppose the look of weathered track changed much in the previous 60 years anyway. Don't forget that sidings were often ballasted with ash and clinker from the local locomotive shed, not pukka granite which cost money! Chris Turnbull
  12. Over time sleepers tend to assume the same colour as the ballast as shown by this photograph taken at Carnforth in 1968. Note that even the freshly-laid running lines have a layer of grime over the sleepers whilst the sidings are almost pure dark brown. More modern track tends to be a bit cleaner than that of yesteryear. This is PECO 7mm track on my layout of Cromer, a layout set in the 2000s. I gave this a light spray of a mixture of Humbrol khaki and matt black. I wouldn't get too hung up on the exact shade as there is no such thing in real life. Matt black should be easy to find and any shade of brown will do. Mix them together and try the shade out on some scrap track and ballast -or a siding that can be easily resprayed or painted. Heavily trafficked areas will be far dirtier, for example where locomotives stand at the platform end. I suggest you check out photographs of your chosen era and play around with mixing paint to a shade that satisfies you. Chris Turnbull
  13. Cutting the arc shouldn't be a problem as t-b-g says but a more difficult problem will be the voussoirs. If I have understood Physicsman correctly he has hand made everything, and a splendid job he has made too. I am not sure that voussoirs are available on a standard embossed sheet; perhaps those with more knowledge than I could advise? Chris Turnbull
  14. I've used Slaters embossed brickwork to great effect. One thing to think about is how to disguise the vertical joints. I hid mine behind piers (which meant I had a bit of wastage on each sheet) but I cannot see anywhere obvious on the stonework example you give. This is worthwhile giving some thought to as a model 7 feet long will have more than a few joints! Chris Turnbull
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