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Redgauntlet1946

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  1. Hi Clem, Thanks for your response, I'm not in much of a rush at this end. I set aside a day to have a go as I'd been lead to believe it was straight forward but the conflict between ability and ambition seems to have caught me out. I'm trying to concentrate on track laying at the moment but short diversions have a theraputic effect and obviously I need a running loco when the track is in a condition to be used. So I'm happy to wait on your convenience. Regards Ian Mersey507003 I'm no expert but... If you are talking Steam then - Yes you can move the wheels outward on their axles. OO wheels are 14.5mm back to back, EM are 16.5mm. I know some people have done it but you have to ensure the the wheel profiles meet EM specifications or else you will have difficulty at turnouts etc. Also as you are reducing the depth of travel of the axle into the wheel it is problematic ensuring the wheel alignment is still true. A lot of ready-to-run wheels have flanges that meet the spec but the wheels are wider so that gives clearance problems which would make my difficulties above even worse. The best I could suggest is get a Back to Back gauge and give it a try. If it works Job Done. If not buy a set of Gibsons. If you pick a model for which Alan Gibson has a conversion available there is a selection of How to Do It downloads on his web site. I have no experience with Diesels but I think they will be much more straight forward Ian
  2. Hi, A bit late but I am also trying to convert a K3 to EM using Gibson Wheels. My problem is the width around the rear crosshead guide support and the lifting arm. I can't see how to increase the width to clear the crankpins without major surgery. Could you give a bit more detail on exactly how you achieved this? Does it in fact need major surgery or is there an obvious solution that I can't see? My minimum radius is 36 - 48 inches. Your K3 looks superb by the way! Regards Ian
  3. Hi Jakub, What I'm suggesting is as per the attached modified photo of your door panel. The black bit at the bottom could be left in the door frame and marked "Remove after Assembly". The problem I'm addressing is that I feel it is essential to get the brick Bond to mesh correctly and fully to ensure the join is as invisible as possible and with my level of dexterity it is proving to be more challenging to do the door section which is less stable than the similar sized windows, for example. It is also possible to over stress the junction between the side and the top of the panel and this would also be helped by the stiffener. I don't think your instructions are all that bad. Perhaps more emphasis on The Manual & Guide would be useful as I suspect that most people will be modifying your designs to suit their individual needs. Regards Ian
  4. Hi Jakub, Another minor issue, now that I am assembling some of your components. I am having difficulty keeping the sides of the doors parallel (in LC-OO-06 for example). Could the design be modified to include a bar or spacer at the bottom which could be cut out after construction? Once everything is glued together the extra rigidity will mean the door sides will remain parallel. I realise it's probably a big change for you to change the masters and update the instructions. Possibly one to bear in mind for the future? Regards Ian
  5. Hi, Just got my first Kit plus a few bits for add-ons and they look very promising. A couple of thoughts though: Do you have any plans to introduce internal partitions? Would the problems of differing bonds be helped if you were to make Quoins from a similar material to the roof ridge tiles? These would disguise the corners quite well and they normally stand out from the main face of the wall so would look quite good IMHO. If you could make them work it could lead to using blockwork as well as varieties of brick bond. I plan to use some of the offcuts to make window sills. Might they be offered in the future? Just thinking out loud really but I will be needing quite a lot of buildings etc in the coming years and your product is in pole position. Best regards Ian
  6. Hi, It is available from EMGS Stores in EM "EM Block Gauge & Alignment Aid" (If you are a member - It costs about £15.00 tho) Ian
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