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Tequila Sunrise

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  1. Two progress reports in one evening is seriously crazy for me, but here we go with number two.... Thanks, Pixie. When I said resistor, I really meant diode - just shows how dumb I really am! Here is the one I tried - though I do understand I need 2 parallel diodes set opposite ways around for the TT to revolve both ways. They are labelled IN4005GP and 8022, whatever that means. They are probably very old. Anyway, they seem to be just the job. Here is a video showing the TT in action. Sorry for the wobbles, but I was having to hold 2 wires together in my fingers at the same time as I was holding the camera. Any jerkiness is due to the wires not being held together very well. http://youtu.be/rvbjmjRaCkY Once the TT is properly installed and hard-wired, it should be smooth and easy to control - not to mention being a lot easier to video. I won't do all that until at least some of the track has been installed. I need some track in place first, to make sure the TT rails are properly aligned and at the right height. The critical bit is the 3-way crossing right next to the TT, so no prizes for guessing what I will try to do next.
  2. The TT has been temporarily fitted to the trackbed to see how easy it will be to use. Unfortunately, it still revolves too fast, despite me dispensing with one of the batteries. Even the slightest touch of the wires moves it too far to allow me to make minor corrections to the alignment. I now feel it ought to go half as fast, if not slower. I will experiment with resistors next - I think I have a few somewhere in the treasure chest. It will be trial and error though, as this kind of thing is a bit of a dark art to me.
  3. If the Stirling Singles had been kept, there would surely have been no point in building any pacifics. The singles would have been the A1s.
  4. Just done a quick, rough back of the envelope calc, based on Martin Wynne's idea. I reckon the width over 2FS wheels is around 0.5mm over scale for 9.42mm gauge. Maybe I should have done my 11mm (5ft 6in) gauge experiment as 10.5mm gauge, in which case the 2FS wheel muffs should have worked better. I do agree that Irish track (and other broad gauges) ought to look wider than standard. You do kind of sense it in photos and in real life, even when there is nothing to give an exact comparison.
  5. Nice work! I thought about 10.5mm gauge recently for my new layout project, but on balance think that 9.42mm gauge has too many benefits to be overlooked. Martin Wynne has made an interesting point today in another thread about width over the wheels being more important than a totally accurate track gauge http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79416-ready-to-lay-oo-track-and-pointwork-some-drawings/page-13&do=findComment&comment=1266421 - but everyone is entitled to their own view and to model how they think best, of course!. Did you use standard axle muffs for the loco? I tried 11mm gauge a while back and found that was pushing the limits a bit too far. What are you doing for the J26 superstructure? Kit or scratchbuilt?
  6. My only gripe with having to join is that models often run late. You end up joining one year to pay the deposit, then having to join again in the year when the model is finally released, to pay the balance. It works out very expensive for anyone not really interested in N gauge issues as such. I joined up and paid a deposit for one model, but decided paying another year's subs was a cost too far - so I never got the model I put the deposit down on. Perhaps there could be a reduced membership fee for people who don't want all the strings attached to normal membership.
  7. PCB quickly blunts saw blades. A new one makes a big difference - if only for a while!
  8. Parkwood have a presence on eBay, I believe (no connection with me other than as a customer) http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/woodpark88/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p3984.m1543.l2654
  9. Will they announce the first product to be made at the new Chinese facility on the Moon?
  10. A diagram of what you propose would help. However, in general there are at least 2 easy ways to do it. 1. have a flexible cable from the baseboard to the traverser and install a separate on/off switch on the traverser for each road. 2. Connect the road coming off the main layout to the traverser road using a rod and tube arrangement - a bit like this http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/826/entry-9641-heathley-kirkgate-mk2-traverser-alignment/ The connectors align the tracks and pass power from the track on the main board to the appropriate traverser track, so no need for any wiring on the traverser itself.
  11. The Wisbech & Upwell version of the 04 Diesel would be nice. They already have the chassis.
  12. http://www.chicago-l.org/stations/jefferson_pk.html From across the pond
  13. Excellent topic - just wondered if you have seen the photos on the RCTS mystery photos site. Amongst other things it suggests much of the track thereabouts had been relaid with jointed FB rail on wooden sleepers some time before closure. http://rcts.org.uk/features/mysteryphotos/index.htm?location=Millers+Dale&srch=&page=1 (2 pages)
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