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  • Location
    Vancouver Island, Canada
  • Interests
    The Great Northern Railway, skiing, my wife, my Bernese Mountain Dog and mountain biking - not necessarily in that order.

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  1. Thank you. I've been snowed under with work, but this weekend I've been recording the first tutorial video, so hopefully it'll be uploaded the beginning of next week.
  2. A sleeper bond is very easy to do, garden bond and English bond require a bit more work, but to be honest, it's not exactly onerous, especially with judicious use of the copy and paste function. I'll put something up over the next couple of days to illustrate how I do walls.
  3. Hi Kris I've had a quick look, and while I can see a range of roof textures, I can't see any wall textures at all - even with the thumbnails calculated.
  4. kada33

    Hi Jason

    I've seen various posts with ref. to a particular person's post number. Can you tell me have to do this please.


    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. kada33


      Hi Pilou

      I've tried your suggestion but it failed to goto the post. I entered 1622243 which was at the end of the hyper link.

      This should have gone to a JCL post on the 12th OCT 2014.



    3. Philou


      Hi Kada33,


      It seems you need the full link so you can change the number at the end. Perhaps if you put the question up in the site notices section (I think I have that right), Andy Y or some of the more clever ones than me might tell you how to do it - if it can be done!

    4. kada33


      Thanks for the reply Philou.


  5. Good point, I think you're right. I've created a new thread and reposted the, erm, post, onto that one. I'll continue with non-tutorial stuff here. The good news is that I successfully printed those windows twice, once at 65% power, and once at the recommended 80% power. The 80% power ones on the right look better, but ultimately, for my printing configuration, the .5mm verticals are too thin, so I've gone for 0.75mm instead - effectively the third window. Both the waiting room and the signal box have been amended, so I'll be able to print them
  6. I've been looking into creating buildings using Blender that can be printed with a 3D printer. I'll get the disclaimer out at the very beginning of this thread: there are a lot of people on here who are much better 3D modellers, there is a lot of 3D software out there that can also do the job, but I only know Blender in any depth, so I'll be concentrating on this, there will be many ways to skin a cat, and if you're mad enough to be using Blender and have different ideas, please pile in with them All I can show you is a workflow that currently works for me.
  7. It started with a G'day and carried on from there. Luckily my sister-in-law is from Brisbane, so she can talk me through the more difficult words. On the printing, yep, printing flat on the FEP. basically, the problem is in the bottom part of the window, where the verticals are thinner front to back. The test print has been set off, so fingers crossed, something should be available in the morning.
  8. In the meantime, it's probably time to start the pump house. Now, there are a lot of people on here who are much better 3D modellers, and there will be many ways to skin a cat. All I can show you is a workflow that works for me. I'm using Blender 2.91.0 from here: https://www.blender.org/download/ Setup the Environment After opening up Blender: select the cube delete it hover over the margin between the main screen and the playback pane, right click, click on 'join areas', and move the mouse downwards to delete the playback pane.
  9. The Lincolnshire coast is a wonderfully stone free place! Even All Saints church in Wainfleet is made of bricks. My family's church is Wainfleet St Mary - it's stone, but far too far away from the railway line. On another note, the windows I've drawn up have failed slightly on both the waiting room and the signal box - even with plenty of supports. Because of this, I've put together a test file with different thicknesses of 'wood' between the panes. Also, my printer has a power output percentage that can be changed on the machine. This determines how brigh
  10. Cheers! I’m definitely printing one for the signal box - I’m looking at. @monkeysarefun’s suggestion, so will try it tomorrow. I have a test base printing at the moment - although I did forget to do the back window. I’ve a problem with the lower parts of the windows. The horizontals are ok, but the verticals have snapped. I think I’m going to have to do some tests and thicken up the widths a bit. Doing the bricks is strangely therapeutic - I imagine it’s like cross-stitch or something as you put your head down and relax for an hour.
  11. The second building at Havenhouse is the signalbox. This was demolished in the 1980s, and the photos are generally at an oblique angle (not many people got off at Havenhouse it seems, so no change there!) Havenhouse by Jonathan Hazan, on Flickr This is the box at the moment. Just the back window to do and the roof and bargeboards. Once it's finished I'll do a blow-by-blow build of a pump house that was situated next to the Haven (river) between Wainfleet and Havenhouse. It was used in the draining of the area. The pump house is
  12. Thank you! It was me. I'll write up some stuff about this on the other thread when I have a look at it, rather than taking over this one.
  13. Unfortunately it's not working for me on 2.90.0. I only see a semi-transparent black box that I have to Esc out of.
  14. I can in a couple of weeks - I’ll put it on the buildings thread
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