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  • Location
    Vancouver Island, Canada
  • Interests
    The Great Northern Railway, skiing, my wife, my Bernese Mountain Dog and mountain biking - not necessarily in that order.

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  1. It helps differentiates between thyme and ‘Mary J’ - thyme in your brownies aren’t going to have the same effect.
  2. Hi Martin. It’s a good model to do. I hope you let us know how you get on. cheers Jason
  3. This has been an interesting read. I did have a shop on Shapeways, which I eventually closed down because I didn’t like their pricing or lack of respect for store owners. I used the shop to pay for the prototyping of the next model so that I never offered a model that hadn’t been tested. I’m the one that has been working with Chris P Bacon, and as he says, prototyping is key - you never know if something will work or not until you try it. Depending on tolerances, could be less than a millimetre out with a splasher and not notice until your printed model came back and the wheels don’t turn around. With this in mind, when buying, as long as the price is what I want to pay, I would only buy an STL if - I’d read good things about the designer, - the designer supported their model. For example, if it was found to be inaccurate or didn’t fit the recommended mechanism, they would adjust the model, - I could spin the model around so I can see it from all angles - important for more complex models, especially if I’m thinking of marrying it up to a chassis, - I could see a printed version of the model, - I knew the model was not too big for my printer (my printer isn’t a bad size, but still can’t easily fit in a 6 wheel carriage), - I was able to run more than one print. As anyone with a 3D printer will know, being restricted to a single print wouldn’t fly because there are any number of things that could go wrong - run out of resin, power cut, bad support structure producing a warped print, printer too cold, earth tremor (not likely in the UK, but happens where I am from time to time), forget to put the build plate back in, etc, etc. On the stls, there’s just no way of stopping them from being copied. For my sins, I am in a couple of 3D printing Facebook groups, and I think every month there is a tale of someone selling an STL of a figure which is then uploaded to Thingiverse by the buyer so that it can be given away to others. I’ve read it’s notoriously difficult to get those models taken back down. One thing, I do currently have a much smaller Shapeways shop than before, but only because I was asked if I could make a couple of items available again. I haven’t bothered reuploading the locos that I had on there they wouldn’t pass the current tests and it’s not worth my time checking them and redoing them. All in all, if I was into selling stl files, I’d look at what @oorail is doing.
  4. Hi there, I’ve a different brand that uses a laser. Because it’s a laser, problem that I have is calibration. On the Mars and Saturn is it basically the case that given a good supporting structure, the model is that same size as the drawing?
  5. I listen to your podcasts while I’m running, and they certainly make the run feel shorter! will check to see if this is on Spotify so I can go out tomorrow.
  6. I think it will depend on cost, print speed (related to cost), scalability and quality. The first two are coming down all the time, and the last is going up as you can see from Mike's V2. It wasn't more than a couple of years ago that a body like that would have cost over $1000 to buy (I remember looking at an article back then). You can buy a printer and the resin to print it yourself for less than that now. Scalability I'd say is down to the company - for all their faults, Shapeways has done a good job of scaling up their process.
  7. I’ve learnt something today. I always thought it was nip.
  8. I thought a previous post had mentioned red-brown as the likely colour. That said, it would stand out a lot, and given the lengths the LNER went to to make steel sided coaches look like teak so they blended in, maybe a teak finish would be just as likely. Dat lining tho. It’s a shame the photo of the end view is so compressed, it does make the lining hard to see.
  9. But how serious must it get before he gets the lining pen out?
  10. I did a lot when I first moved to the Canadian Rockies, and did the same as pH. A move to Vancouver Island (not so easy to get to the US) and an interest in British GNR kicked in, and stayed with me.
  11. If anyone's interested, I did find this on formaldehyde: https://apps.sepa.org.uk/spripa/Pages/SubstanceInformation.aspx?pid=57 . Sorry it's a bit off-topic, but could be useful if you do start cutting MDF in the future.
  12. I'm sat next to an Emblaser Core at the moment that is slowly engraving a garden sign into slate. I upgraded from Emblaser 1 at the end of last year, and I must admit it's been one of my better decisions. I can cut through the 3mm mdf from 4D Model shops, and thin ply, thicker ply doesn't seem to work for me. I'm incredibly happy indeed Darkly Lab's support - they replaced a part on the Emblaser 1 for free even though the machine was out of warranty - I had to just pay postage. There are a couple of people on here with CO2 laser cutters that love them, but build quality seems to vary, so it's worth talking to CO2 owners about their machines before making a decision. Good luck! -- and with that, 8 1/2 hours of engraving has just finished.
  13. Blender 3D has allows me to write in dimensions to 6 decimal places. It's free, and is a modelling program, but it's got quite the learning curve.
  14. We looked into this at the GNR Society, and came to the same conclusion. There's also a clause that some photos that were out of copyright can, in some cases, have copyright revived. In our case, the photo collection is viewable by members only, and is *generally* 1923 and earlier, so most of them are out of copyright.
  15. No problem Chris. I'm not on here that often to be fair
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