JCL

I can hear a whoosh sound.

I've done a bit of experimentation and terrible photography. Levers The frame below is straight off the printer and has levers in different thicknesses. The first two are twice the size (but not the length, obviously) of the originals, and a pretty sturdy, but the gap is pretty narrow. The second pair are a little narrower, and so it goes. The four on the other end were supported, but that's not helped much as I couldn't add supports sturdy enough. Here are the different sizes that I used. As it takes as long to print three as it does one, and it's only going to cost about 50p, I'm going to print three of them, all with supports: 1.7 times thicker 1.5 times thicker 1.25 times thicker A Fortuitous Accident I've realised that during the drawing up of the signal box I managed to delete the back of the middle mullion and create a slot. Structure-wise, I assume this is why the front bows slightly outwards towards the roof, but it does mean that fitting the instrument shelf will be much easier. I've drawn up a bar behind the shelf that goes in the slot. There's a bit of play up and down to get the right position, and the length of the bar means that it's not possible to not have the shelf horizontal.

Something else that's interesting is that the circular layer-lines aren't circular near the middle for any of the parts. When I did Mike's ball test, the layer-lines in his model were perfectly circular. Have you tried reducing the build plate's lift speed and/or recreating the part to see if there's a problem with the mesh?

Cheers adb968008 I'm someone who helps companies get online by analysing their businesses and customer relationships, and I create e-commerce sites and procedures based on that. To be fair, FB is used by a lot of companies for marketing and customer relationships, but they work best when most of their customers are on that platform - and many people aren't. The ideal would be to message where their customers spend their time, which I would have thought would be both there and here. I suppose if they're only going to message in one place, and their customers are willing to do updates on RMWeb on their behalf, then the one upside of FB is that KRM can control the message and who gets to talk to them on that platform, which they obviously can't do here. Anyway, fingers crossed for everyone still waiting.

That's true Colin. I was one of those affected, and I appreciated it once they started communicating with the buyers. I saw KR Models was on RMWeb earlier today, I'd be surprised if they haven't read this thread. Maybe it's time for them to provide an update.

Also, try rotating it 10+ degrees on the Z axis and see what happens.

Hi David ( @Fen End Pit) Thanks for putting them up on Thingiverse, they're brilliant, but yes they're fragile at 4mm scale. Looking at them, the resin caused them to 'stick together' - probably as they come out of the vat. I'm going to beef them up slightly and see if that gives them a bit of strength. I'll also reinstate some of the supports. You're not wrong. I printed them overnight (in Canada), so, although there is a heater in there, there's every chance something happened. I've spent the day printing it again, so fingers crossed.

Not mine I’m afraid! However, I have resized it from the original, because it was quite flamboyantly wide. I printed them overnight along with another signal box. Unfortunately the signal box didn’t print well at all for some reason. Of the parts you can see above, the frame is the only one I’m disappointed with. I scaled this down from the one on a Thingiverse, but looking at it, I’m going to have to beef it up a bit. Apart from the sticking together, it disintegrates if you touch it. The chair and wheel turned out incredibly well, and the table and instrument shelf only need a quick sand to straighten the edges as I printed them flat to the build plate.

Here's a quick and dirty look at the parts I'll be printing tomorrow. These are all taken (approximately) from a photo I found of the interior of Havenhouse box. And here's the updated signal box file with the stairs signal box 20 f.stl

Hi Mike, They look great. On a Facebook group the other day I also saw a reference to a different piece of software for $68US. You end up with clothed, rigged and so posable people. https://www.humgen3d.com/

If it helps, I didn't receive the shipping notice until the day after my W&C arrived. I have to say that I'm enjoying using it.

I've finished the full Signal box print, and it includes the stairs and a chimney pot. I’m the photo above, you can see the bottom is a bit uneven. I raised the box up by 1mm to take this into account, and to allow the box to be embedded into the scenery. I've also created a couple of bits and pieces to go in there that I’m printing this evening: coal scuttles a frame, which I amended from the model created by FenEndPit on Thingiverse a chair, which I found on free3d.com and a gate wheel. There was a wheel at Havenhouse and Wainfleet, and this is an amalgamation of the two. It's also simplified as I only have one blurred photo of the one in Havenhouse, and a 3/4 view of the one at Wainfleet I've added the models I've done or resized below. signal box scuttles.stl signal box table.stl signal box shelf.stl signal box wheel.stl If anyone does print the signal box off, really support the middle strut between the windows, if you don't then the windows will bow out at the top. Also, I added two heavy supports under the wooden, erm, platform at the top of the stairs. I also overdid the supports on the top bannister rail, and need to do a little repair of the front post. I just have to prime, paint and glaze the thing now.

I have to say, fingers crossed, but I've had no problems with the mono, but it seems if you do, you're pretty much on your own - warranty or no warranty! Getting the puppy and doing those tutorial videos put actual printing on the back burner, but I've just printed off the signal box again, this time with stairs, and I'm very happy with it. Once I've got the interior done, I'll put it on the buildings thread. Closer to home, I've got a GNR 4 wheel coach done, and I've been thinking of how I'll print it. At the moment, I'm thinking chassis upside-down, with the coach body next to it at 45 degrees. It worked pretty well for the Armstrong Whitworth. You certainly have quite the list of vehicles there. I think once you start production (if that is the route you're going), you'll take the world by storm.

Hi mister, it's been a while, which printer are you putting together? Did you get your Mono X up and running?

Hi there, I've just had a look, and unfortunately the STL file is corrupt. I've sent regme a message.

Ok, right post, right thread. Mike, you were looking at antialiasing a short time ago. Here’s a couple of posts from a Lychee slicer FB group “Standard is meaningless on the MonoX because you have to slow down printer below 3seconds in order give the printer enough time to read the USB stick 8 times and generate its blur on the fly. I've had great results using "Blur". I may be wrong, but it seems to be *effectively* the same thing, only doing it in advance and making it part of the file instead of asking the printer to do all the heavy lifting. Basically. It takes several seconds for the firmware to read the frame 8 times, apply a gradiated blur and then expose. So you wind up having to go over 3seconds of exposure. Meaning you have to dial down the UV% way low to compensate... like 30-40%. That totally defeats the value of a fast mono screen printer. You don't subvert it. Its a flaw. Done. Deal with it. Instead you just don't use the built-in "standard" a.a. Using blur in Lychee where it *pre*blurs the images instead of relying on the firmware of the printer to do the work is the best work-around I know at this time.” His settings are: radius: 10px grey offset: 50% antialias on supports: off The original post is here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/LycheeSlicer/permalink/793114854944253/?__cft__[0]=AZVlTqVdlYSGLpo9G2S0KEMUcYKPXxHWHhbSDAkeFnz0mvOo2rhYM2ofAzUM0UQD_vozRiQZkHtQKYZpLQWdbEK4zaR1sttobHbBlgc-nf4p1dKF543c1JgxQI-FYUoFERnh95Jx_h8johhbpltyTW1sZdE8q5kAK1onwHUOPO_UR1lT6p0Xyn0H7EdL1szP7SY&__tn__=%2CO%2CP-R

Hi there, I can have a look at your file(s) and see if I can work out what’s happening if you like. If I can work out what’s happening and get it visible, I could send you a blend file in return. cheers Jason

Posted in the wrong thread

A lot of things have happened since my last post, but I've finally managed to find the time to upload the STL files. Unfortunately they're a bit too big for here, and RMWeb doesn't allow zip files, so to get around this, I've uploaded the files to my Google Drive account. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1d2Z2UvWY1TERnnSIdv12fp14ZI5tZgDB?usp=sharing The bogie wheels I used were Bachmann wagon wheels; the buffers I stole from my earlier attempt with the Silhouette, and I think they came from Wizard Models. If used, the Hornby motor bogie, which is a friction fit, slides between the frames and is held at the right height by bracing. There are boxes to hold nuts for 8BA bolts at each end, and for each of the bogies. The partitions mean they're a bit fiddly, but I pushed the nuts in with tweezers. There is a guide hole in the exhaust duct if you want to ream it out to have the fan spinning, and there is a slot between the top of the exhaust duct and the inside of the roof for some mesh. If you're printing it in resin, you should find all holes are the right size, but if not, don't use bigger drills bits as they have too much bite and could crack your model. Use reamers instead. I'm thinking about the holes for the 8BA bolts here. Wheels: https://www.Bachmann.co.uk/product/metal-spoked-wagon-wheels-(x10)/36-014 Big old disclaimer coming up! Please note that the model tolerances are designed for my printer, and you might find that you need to do a bit of sanding depending on how you print yours, or have yours printed. You'll definitely need to sand around the chassis arches to make sure the bogies swing far enough for your curves. Also, I've not looked at them for ages, so please give the files a good check over before you print them. Please don't post the files anywhere else. Finally, if you put one together, please let me know how you got on/take a photo. cheers Jason

Well they look like they are fitting together pretty well, it'll be interesting to see your v2 and how crisp you can get your edges.

Nice! I have to say, cutting the Shapeways cord was a good move for me, especially up here in Canada.

If this is aimed in part at the steampunk community, you might be interested in a film I found last night - “Mortal Engines”. The plot was no Oscar winner, but the visual effects won awards. They were done by Weta who did the Lord of the Rings, etc

Wow, that's amazing! It's brilliant to see that a free program can produce work like that. In a far more mundane situation, I created the general shapes of my house yesterday so that my wife could see what the changes to our roofline would look like - we were also able to send the image to the builder to check.

Slightly off topic, but something to show how capable Blender is if you have the time and inclination. Radek Grec has been using Blender for a few years, and recently he's been putting his short videos up on the Blender Beginners Facebook group that I'm also a member of. He's been using his model of a streamlined diesel to learn different aspects of the program, and put his results together in this short film.

I promised some doors, so here are three different doors you can do, and only one new command to think about. You can use these basic doors as a basis for a whole load of different door styles. The stable door could become a single or double factory door, and the panels on the panelled door could be done in many different ways. You could create one big panel, delete it, and have a glass door (make two, one slightly in front of the other, and you have sliding patio doors), and it wouldn't take too much to turn a panelled door into French doors.