JCL

We bought a house with one in - it was one of the first things that came out!

I've the pump house to do, and I'd like to investigate windows and doors as well, so there will be more to come. In the meantime, here's the last one in this series. I'm on a Microsoft 10 machine, so I can take advantage of MS 3D Builder to repair any problems with the model that I've created. This is the easiest way of checking your model, as it's just a simple button click. I can honestly say that I've never had a problem with a file that has gone through that step. If you have a different version of Windows, a Mac or other software, then there are more options out there that give you a varying amount of control. I link the simple one button click as I'm no longer one to tinker with tools. These include, but aren't limited to: Netfabb online repairer - needs a good internet connection as you'll be probably creating big files. https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Meshmixer https://www.meshmixer.com/ - Windows and Mac Meshlab https://www.meshlab.net/ - Windows, Mac and Linux And like Blender, they're all free! Remember - always check/repair your file before printing or firing off to Shapeways!

I'm mainlining videos today. Creating the base of the roof. Not difficult, especially if you've been following along, but there are a couple of things you can do to make life a bit easier. And finally, tiling your roof. Finally, a very small addendum. If you remember, I said that the mortar was too deep on the right hand side. In the video below, I show you how to fixt this. Apologies for the bodging, but I imagine it's useful to know how to fix small issues if they arise. The last video that I still have to do will be exporting and then repairing the building to an STL file that you can then import into a slicer and print or send to Shapeways.

The second video today (I know, nothing comes along, and then two come in at the same time) will show you how to create a basic door and window. In addition to the array modifier, I've made use of the boolean modifier this week. This modifier will allow you to punch holes in the sides of your walls for windows and doors. I've shown you the quick and dirty way of doing this. There are other more elegant ways, so if I get a chance, I'll show them at a later date.

Time has been very short in the last couple of weeks, but while the house has been quiet, I've managed to knock off a couple more videos. Prepare to be bombarded. The first video will show you how to create the wooden upper walls using the planking method we looked at a few weeks ago.

Hi @animotion, I don't have any flexible, but I do have a Dremel. The last time I did finials, I used the toothpick, small triangular file and the Dremel as a lathe.

@jaym481, I was thinking that the other day, on https://www.myminifactory.com, they call them campaigns. I also agree about postage to Canada, it was one of the reasons I bought my first printer.

Hi there You have a couple of options and a couple of things to be wary of. Within Blender, if you select everything, you might think you can scale using the fields in the transform sidebar. Unfortunately, the way Blender treats selections means you can't. When you select a group of objects, one object in the selection is the active object, and all of the others are inactive objects. Any sort of transformation you do will only be done to the active object within your selection. The video shows this happening. So that won't work, but there are a couple of options. The first option is the one I would use. Select all Press S to scale, then rescale If necessary, use the scale options that pop up in the bottom left of the screen This will rescale everything around the centre of the selected objects - which I think is what you're asking about. When scaling, once in a while one of the selected objects will scale in a different way to all of this others. This is because a transform needs to be accepted - if you remember Ctrl-A will fix this) Another option is to join everything together in Object mode by selecting them and pressing the J key. The only downsides here are that: when objects are joined, any unfinished modifiers (such as array, scale, etc) are discarded when you separate them again, your old object names will have disappeared, and are replaced by a single object name for all the previously joined objects with the suffix .001, .002, .003 etc Back up to a new file name before doing anything major! (No sound, the puppy is playing with squeaky toys and making a racket!) If you are slicing and printing the model yourself, you can use the slicing software to rescale the model before you print it. Shapeways also offers this service. Does that help?

At which my heart leaps with joy!

Ok, in this video, I'm creating the first three rows of bricks that will form the foundation of the shed. Of course, if you are creating a brick built shed, then you would make sure that the bricks go all the way up to the eaves. In our case, the main part of the shed will be wooden, so there will be a bit more work to do.

Hi there, can you export to svg? I’ve exported drawings from Inkscape and Illustrator into Blender using that format. They come out pretty well - although, usually too small and on the wrong plane, but that is quickly rectified.

My dad once told me that when he was playing football in the park as a kid, an ‘old man’ would be sat on a bench watching them. And one day as he was sat, he realized the old man was him. (so he moved to Thailand)

Hi Mick You’re not the first, and won’t be the last. When we meet people, we tell them he’s a boy, and they still call him “she”

Thanks Mick, mini- me is a girl, Amber, and the big un is a boy, Austin

Here you go! She is currently taking up a lot of my time. Mainly keeping her out of trouble to say our lives are revolving around her at the moment is an understatement. That said, today we start the shed. I’ve part 1 done, and part 2, the brick base, was recorded while she was asleep this afternoon. I’ll be able to put it up on Monday. With our 9 year old Berner

Thanks Neil. The next one will hopefully be done by the end of next week. I'm picking up a puppy tomorrow, so that and work will take a bit of time. The next video(s) is/are half complete, and when finished, will show how to create a lamp shed or lineside shed. Wooden upper, with a few courses of bricks as a foundation. It'll show how to create: gable ends corners in brick and wood doorways and window holes cheers Jason

Hi there, if nothing else has changed, has the temperature of the resin changed? I know on the Anycubic Photon X, a drop in temperature can cause splitting like that on your horses.

Morning, I've been doing some 4mm test prints and it all seems to have worked out well. I've a busy week, but I can upload the stl files next weekend - here if I can, but if I can't I'll put them on Thingiverse and then link to them. There will be 5 parts: body chassis pony trucks x 2 fan cheers Jason

Blender is quite the package to get started in, but if you take it step by step, like any other complex package, then it's definitely manageable. It's also free and there are third party add-ons that can make life easier. There hasn't been anything I couldn't do within Blender, but I do know that some actions are easier in other software, an example of this is the flange at the bottom of a dome or chimney. Definitely doable in Blender, but there isn't a quick solution for this like there is in other packages. It's probably best to trial a couple of different packages and see which one works best for you. For example, people say Sketchup is a lot easier then Blender, but I've never could get the hang of it.

It's been a while since I've done this sort of thing, are you finding them 'followable'?

And the next one - tidying up the end of the wall. In this video I'm assuming that the wall isn't going around a corner - it might be a garden wall for example. In the next video, I'll cover corners. It's quite late, so finger's crossed it came out ok!

The final brick walling type for now. A run through of the English garden bond. We are using the same tools that we used in the previous video, so I'm going to go through this more quickly. Next video will be tidying up the edges.

One more thing, we’ve also shown that the artifacts also depend on the slicer. My two ball prints had the same (available) print settings, but achieved slightly different results.

Absolutely. And I’ve just noticed, the column holding up the ball on the right is also a lot smoother as you’d expect There is always going to be a trade off between speed and quality, and where that point is, depends on personal tastes and circumstances. It was an interesting exercise to do, but given the size of the pixels, at some point you get to a hard barrier. Although science and engineering has created these machines, using them is definitely an art.

Here's the ball sliced in Photon Workshop. Interestingly, I don't see the those other circles on the side of the ball on the Photon Workshop print. Other than that they look very similar. In my Photon Workshop, I don't get the Antialias V2 option, so I just set it to 4. In real life, I don't see the lines except under particular lighting conditions, and the ball just looks a little matt. And to remind you, here's the one done in Lychee.