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USERS MAY EXPERIENCE SLOW PERFORMANCE, THIS IS DUE TO A DRIVE ISSUE WHICH IS BEING INVESTIGATED.

rodshaw

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    : Northampton, UK

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  1. Cutting some pieces of card to stick to the front of the baseboard, I managed to cut a slice off my finger (again). This must be up there as one of the most common railway modellers' accidents.
  2. Bearing in mind my intention to build a harbour or wharf scene, with the front of the layout as a harbour wall and an extra two or three inches in front to model water at a lower level, I'm going to need some appropriate HO scale detailing items, e,g, lobster pots, rope, fishing nets etc., and maybe a boat component or two. Can anyone suggest a source, preferably in the UK?
  3. The Alco S-4 shoves a boxcar into the siding... to pick up a hi-cube from Ahab Engineering. Later, an RS-3 picks up an empty gondola... and takes it to the interchange sidings. (Must straighten that wall). Sme views of the whole layout so far, showing the matchstick rail bumpers and the walls screening the fiddle yard.
  4. I've run out of materials for a backscene and don't feel like buying any more just now so for now I'm going to do without one. To make the low relief factory stand up, I made a sort of slotting system. For the warehouse interior rear walls, which aren't part of the Scalescenes kit, I found an online photo that was a pretty good match and adapted it.
  5. A bit more progress, with the Scalescenes low relief warehouse freebie and some ground cover, again using Scalescenes products and Wills cobble sheets which I've had for some time so I thought I might as well use them. The idea is that there will be a harbour wall all along the front of the layout, with a length of 'sea' a couple of inches or so deep , hopefully with room for a couple of small boats. Mostly I haven't been a fan of printed card kits because of the basic 2D appearance but they are easy and pleasant to build and I must say they look better than I thought.
  6. I usually use card stuck on top of the sleepers to the required height and painted, or topped with Scalescenes ground surface printed onto paper or thin card. This way everything is easy to take up if I need to re-use the points. Not as good looking as the 3D Wills sheet, which I have also used between tracks, but not bad either.
  7. Worsley Works apparently do an etched cab, body and chassis.
  8. I haven't done much in 3mm lately, having been more wrapped up in American TT (what a nice scale that is, by the way), but whatever the scale I have a rule I try and stick to. It's finished when I say it is (or when the little voice in my head tells me it's good enough), then I move on. I can't start a project till the current one is done because it just nags at me. Am I weird or what? I say try to - I couldn't finish the the 3mm scale Y7 so rather than agonise over what to do, I sold it. As to the J39, I seem to recall having to make some bits for it (splashers maybe)
  9. Very nice. I suppose one advantage of using the Tri-ang chassis is that you don't have to think about adding extra weight to what must be a very light body.
  10. A small start with scenics for this new layout in the form of the 1930s factory from modelrailwayscenery.com, repurposed with an added more modern Walthers door. Sides and roof still to do. I like the way this kit goes together. It was supplied as OO scale, which I could have got away with but I reduced it to 87% for HO. I think it will look nice against the backscene on top of a loading ramp.
  11. Or you could mix your own using cheap blue and white poster paint. You don't need much blue at all.
  12. When I built my first American layout I installed uncoupling magnets, but the uncoupling process was somewhat convoluted and the magnets always seemed to be in the wrong place. So I removed them, and didn't bother with them on my second layout. I found it far more straightforward to uncouple with a quick twist of the Kadee stick or a skewer of some kind. I work my turnouts with push-pull wooden dowels under the layout, with a length of piano wire sticking through and upwards through a hole in the tiebar. The dowels stick out of the baseboard at both front and back for operation from eithe
  13. I have two of the MRC DCC diesel sounders, one at more or less each end of the layout to 'balance' the sound. The sound itself is good, but even with a layout only 4ft long, wherever you place the speakers it's obvious the sound isn't coming from the moving loco. It's a nice inexpensive compromise though. I see that MRC produced a new version of their diesel sounder with a beefier speaker: https://mrr.trains.com/news-reviews/staff-reviews/2018/11/mrc-synchro-sound2 but I don't know of any stockists in the UK.
  14. That's a nice bit of space you've got there, plenty of switching potential.
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