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Grasshopper John

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Everything posted by Grasshopper John

  1. Just read this thread from the start, what a fantastic job you have done Captain, although the last few pages escape me Re track problems, but i'm sure you will sort it out, Your layout is worth all the effort it affords Sir.
  2. Lovely work Sandy, are you trying to give Ken a run for his money
  3. I Beg to differ there Kev, Peter doesn't make mistakes, He just makes subtle changes
  4. Hi Steve, I saw this last week on a quick visit to cumbria. This had pulled into Millom station as I was walking over the bridge. It's a 37 I mistakenly thought it was a Deltec but I've been corrected
  5. Agree with all of the above, Lovely work Martyn.
  6. Looks very impressive all laid out Martyn, Really looking forward to seeing the real thing.
  7. Amazing stuff once again Ken, I just scrolled back to the first post of the mogul It was the 9th Sept, which by my calculation its taken you 9 Days. That must be a record, even for you
  8. No Problem at all, You have PM.
  9. Martyn, If you want, if Simon sends me a file I can print and bring to Telford Mate. I would just need to know what to print
  10. Tim, I used 145 solder on my return cranks and 188 on the eccentric rod joint, BUT you have to be quick and use a lot of flux ( as I found out ) I hope you can see the bends I put on the return crank from this It needs two small bends, one to keep it clear of the coupling rod and another to keep the eccentric rod clear. It's a lot of work though, and trial and error. HTH John.
  11. Tim, make sure the return crank is 5-10dg forward facing when the crankpin is at 6oc.
  12. Tim, I forgot to mention something crucial, Not sure about Epoxy to fit Return Crank, but with solder you have to cut the crankpin shorter by about a 1 to 1 1/2 MM from the top of the flange on the bush, Then take the bush off and cover the crankpin in felt tip pen and a very light oil. This will stop any solder running onto the crankpin and seizing it up, I did It and it bas@tard to put it right. HTH John.
  13. With the return crank I used 145dg solder tin the top hat and return crank,use a cocktail stick to centralise it make sure its about 5-10dg forward when the crankpin is at 6oc use plenty of flux and crank iron up to about 325dg Listen for the flux to do it's work but be quick with the iron.
  14. Welcome Back Peter Will be following you on this as your workmanship is spot on as always. I just have one word TELFORD well two BEER.
  15. Tim I think Ozzyo was only referring to the crankpin to lock it home not the bushes ( I think ) BTW How do you keep your model gleaming, I live near the water and what with the flux and salt in the air I suffer a lot of rust especially on tools which are always left out. Getting there though Tim keep at it sir.
  16. Thank you David, you know I can't resist a good tool, just purchased a couple of 1 3/4 " ones, You can never have to many tools in this hobby
  17. They look the business David, Never seen them before, I was referring to G clamps which I've tried with little success.
  18. Clamps tend to 'Move' things as you tighten them Tim, get yourself some of these spring clamps, cheap and do the job. PS there's nothing between the rear bogie wheels and the front of the cylinders on my build, there isn't enough room for anything
  19. Tim, you need to use a Pin chuck to widen holes in coupling rods and conn rods, put them on a small piece of wood and use your eye.
  20. Glad it worked Tim, as a good friend always says there's always an escape route
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