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Everything posted by whart57

  1. Pretty sure it was narrow gauge. Thirty or forty years ago I went looking for remains of some of these lines (I'm from NE Kent originally) and while there was little left of either lines or quarries there were bits and pieces lying around that suggest the tracks were two foot gauge or so. The bits and pieces were things like cast iron sleepers embedded in concrete so couldn't be salvaged. I don't recall if this was one of the ones I looked for - I'm no record keeper - but I was looking around Oare. Some ten to fifteen years earlier too I was at a Scout camp in this area, again none too sure of the exact location except it was a bit outside Faversham. Then there were narrow gauge tracks lying beside the path we went up to get to the field we'd camped in. The line was obviously disused as the track had been lifted at the points it crossed another roadway and was dumped at the side as panels of track. At the time I thought narrow gauge meant Welsh railways like the Talyllyn so didn't really twig what this was.
  2. Would a standard gauge line follow the excavations like this narrow gauge line clearly does?
  3. There were quite a lot of gravel pits served by narrow gauge tramways in the Faversham area. This one at Oare is a good example It goes to a wharf on Oare creek rather than a railway siding but operation is much as required - straight from pit to transhipment point.
  4. I find Railmatch Sleeper Grime is a good colour for wood sleepers, at least as the uniform base colour. I end up mixing various versions of Humbrol "rust" together for chairs and rail sides. My UK prototype examples are a redder rust than my Thai layout. I'm not sure if the tropical climate induces some mould growth but my memory and my photographs suggest a much blacker colour on railsides than in Europe. Spilled oil, brake dust and other assorted gunge means there should be variations, particularly in station areas. Mixing colours on a palette as you go does mean some variation happens randomly anyway. As an aside, avoid black when mixing colours. Only where you have actual carbon to be represented - coal dust, ash, oil sludge - should you use black. Darken colours with a mix of earthy red and green and possibly a dark blue.
  5. Shall we say it was a private individual and I'm not sure he wants to get requests. Let me find out
  6. This was never planned to be. At a gathering of 3mm scale modellers I was given a 3D printed body of an LSWR 0330 class 0-6-0T. It had piqued my interest because Colonel Stephens had acquired a couple for his lines, one went to Rolvenden for use of the K&ESR and another to Shepherdswell to trundle up and down the EKR. Both appear from the photographic record to have had a lot of use in the 1930s. At the end of the meeting I was given the body with the instruction I could have it if I built a chassis for it. Now as it happens I also needed a loco for 14.2mm gauge but with SQ wheels to test the new Finetrax point kit with that combination. Theoretically SQ wheels are outside the finescale standard but it is known that some 14.2mm gauge modellers do use them so testing the new point kits with those wheels is something that needed doing. So here it is: Build was a mix of old school and new school. The old school technique was employed of making the coupling rods first from two layers of nickel silver sweated together and then using that to mark and drill the axle holes in the frames. A nod to 21st century techniques was printing the frame outline onto sticky back labels for fretting out the frames and drilling the holes for things like brake hangers Frame spacers were made in the lathe from the pins salvaged from 13 amp plugs. The new plugs with the plastic sleeves have a nice bit under the sleeve which is just long enough for a 14.2mm chassis. At least if you use thickish nickel silver and the spacers are 10mm rather than 10.5mm. Years ago I made myself a set of spacer jigs which fit accurately into the axle holes (when opened out to take a bearing) and hold the frames in alignment while the spacers are soldered in place. I'm very much a fan of the N20 motor and Geoff Helliwell's crown and pinion transmission and I had one of his gear plate kits in stock. It needed a little trimming down the sides to fit inside the slightly narrower between frames space than Geoff designed them for but otherwise it went together with no sweat or swearing. The cross drilled jig Geoff sells to position the gear plate correctly vis a vis the driven axle is a must have, because it makes a tricky task much much easier. Mounting the motor in the upright position is a little fiddlier as it uses the screws that hold the N20 to the gearbox rather than the normal fixing screws but the only real cuss was getting the gear wheel onto the N20 shaft. The SQ wheels with their square axle holes are easy to fit and I was amazed that when I fitted the coupling rods the wheels turned under power without any fettling or fiddling. I can honestly say that has never happened to me before. Still a fair bit of work required to finish the loco - as East Kent No. 7 - but I have done enough to be able to run it through the new point. And it goes through a treat.
  7. I believe it is a personal project of John Walker's
  8. It is. That's what makes this project feasible.
  9. It's a B6. The choice is a compromise between accuracy and space, as nearly all layout design is. Yesterday we had a Triang Merchant Navy fitted with 14.2mm gauge wheels gliding through the curve though and a bogie coach. If this goes well then we will be pestering Wayne for other geometries Yesterday too we went over the point with a digital micrometer to check against Society standards. Faultless. The only thing out of spec is that the curved section is 0.3mm over-gauge, but we deem that a soupçon of gauge widening there is a good thing.
  10. Right, I think this is what people want to see https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vRZxaDbPmNTjnyQH86Rtulq6yj9DmMZn/view?usp=sharing Just a short video of the 3mm scale point having something run through under power
  11. Update posted in the other thread
  12. I have now built the test kit. It took under an hour, though fitting into a layout will take a bit more time. First the bad news - you still need a soldering iron The good news though is that you only need it for soldering the electrical connections. The first step is to solder a dropper wire to the underside of the cast crossing. Some other electrical connections have to made later, but that dropper is so that the polarity of the crossing can be switched when the point blades are switched. Standard live-frog electrics, as applicable for DCC as it is for traditional DC. That electrical work takes about five minutes. The next step is to cut the switch blades to the exact length. There needs to be a small gap between the switch blades and the cast frog, British Finescale recommend twice the thickness of a standard paper sheet. A little bit of fettling and filing is required here as the switch blades are supplied something like a quarter inch over length. However as the rail slips easily and smoothly into the printed chairs of the point base it's no problem to take it out and put it back two or three times in order to achieve the right length. With the switch blades fettled to the right length and inserted into the point base, the tie bar can be fitted. The design here is excellent. The tie bar fits into a channel in the web between the sleepers that allows it to move left and right without twisting. The point base is flexible and as the switch blades are on slide chairs for the last centimetre or so it bends back easily to allow the soldered pins of the switch blades to be inserted into tiny holes in the tie bar. The only thing I would say here is that you need good light for this. Good eyesight too as the holes are very small. Absent good eyesight a magnifying class is helpful. We are now about 35 minutes into the job. The next job is to slide in the main stock rails. As the ends of the switch blades are planed to a very fine point there is no work required on joggling or recessing the stock rails. Plain rail can simply be slid into the chairs. Plain rail can also be used on the other side of the frog. About five minutes work. The final task is to fit the check rails. I cut two 40mm lengths of the Society BH rail, used a three cornered needle file to score a groove about 3mm from the ends, slid the rail into the chairs and then tweaked the ends slightly Now you are ready to test the point by rolling stock through it. Wayne needs to be congratulated on his work. I've built a few points in my time, soldered copper clad jobs, chairs slid on to rail jobs, even ones built using an etched base and this is the first one I have built that did not require any final tweaking and fettling to have stock pass through without bumps and wobbles. And I have never built one so quickly either. This looks like becoming the most significant advance for 3mm fine scale since the production of the Society sleeper bases twelve years ago. The next step is to stick the point to a board, wire things up and run a loco through under power. I hope to report on that next week.
  13. I'm just putting a link here As these kits will be of greatest interest to 3mm scale modellers I thought a thread in the scale specific forum might be more appropriate
  14. Best let one of Wayne's pictures sent to me tell that story
  15. I have started a thread in the 3mm section on these point kits. All updates will go there
  16. After reading about the new range of turnout kits Wayne Kinney of British Finescale has produced in OO and EM, I approached Wayne about producing a 3mm scale turnout. Wayne was willing to do so and with backing from the 3mm Society he has now produced the first user test kit which has arrived at my address. This test kit has the components Wayne manufactures but owing to us not supplying him with enough Society bullhead rail it does not have all the pieces. The bits made from plain rail will on this occasion have to be supplied by me. First impressions are that this is an excellent piece of work. To demonstrate that I have used a USB "microscope" camera to take a close up. Wayne probably doesn't expect reviewers to do this but I think his work stands up well to this close review Likewise the machined point blades look very good in close up I am expecting a delivery of rail imminently, so when that arrives I will start on building this.
  17. I'll try and get something posted over the weekend. Two snags: we didn't send Wayne at BF enough rail and I have run out myself - but some is on the way I have grandchildren visiting .......... This is the first user test example. All being well we will go from there onto a wider test and assuming continued acceptance and Committee backing I hope that we will be in a position to sell to members before Christmas
  18. Something very exciting has just landed on my workbench, namely the first test kit of a B6 point in 14.2mm gauge from British Finescale. This follows the principles of their OO and EM gauge turnouts with a 3D printed sleeper base with chairs into which the rails are fed. Planed switch blades, cast crossing and tiebar are also provided. The postie has literally just put it into my hot and sweaty so I haven't had time yet to do a detailed examination. When I do I will open a new thread on this Forum to describe it further.
  19. There are mechanical ways of actuating the brake, another idea I had was a wire that lifted rather like a traditional uncoupling ramp. And then with the powerful tiny magnets available these days there is real potential using magnetism. However as DCC is now well established I wanted to investigate the potential of computerised control.
  20. I was thinking of something more like 1 in 40, that might be a bit more reliable. Fly shunting is not envisaged, the modus operandi on the EKR was to stop, uncouple, run the loco into a siding, let the carriage(s) run down the slope. Assuming track power is available, how would you use DCC to control the servo?
  21. Sorry, perhaps I should have made that clear.
  22. The coach wheels would have to be split axle jobs, any wipers or those DCC Concepts spring like wrap-arounds would introduce too much friction. I have made split axle tender axles for tender pick-up and they worked well. (Incidentally adding tender pick ups makes locos much more reliable) For the brake I envisaged just a light wire - guitar E string springs to mind - pressing onto one of the coach axles. Experimentation required certainly. My first thought was a small motor turning a threaded flywheel which pulls a screw thread. Again, experimentation required. The purpose of this question here was to ask about controlling either that or a servo with an on-board decoder.
  23. I've seen this but that's a motor in the coach isn't it?
  24. I've always been fascinated by the East Kent Light Railway but anyone who knows the line will know that the termini are very basic, especially Canterbury Road, and don't have run rounds. The loco gets to the right end of the train by running into a siding and then the guard gravity shunting the train - usually just a single carriage - past the siding into the platform. My question here is whether it would be feasible to fit a "brake" in a free running carriage which is applied using a servo which is controlled by an on-board decoder. Anyone have any thoughts? Anyone tried it? (I've had a search on rmweb and not found any previous discussion. That's not to say there hasn't been of course)
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