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mikesndbs

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Everything posted by mikesndbs

  1. Hi guys Just received my 73 126, one of the locos I actually worked on so I was well pleased to get it. Couple of issues. Motor is drawing around 300mA still to run in of course. No manual supplied so I can check things and fit detail parts. No buffing bar? EH? nope, is that a spare part to fit? Light are good if only they could arrange a moving roller blind lol
  2. Thanks Rob I've spent ages with it disassembling and reassembling under great magnification looking for the slightest tolerance difference. Currently she runs well enough but if you go really slow, she will still lock or will limp, but not at a slightly higher speed??? Also fine in reverse. Most odd. I've written to Hattons technical just in case they might have some tips, I don't want to send it back as I've fitted a lot of details now. Thanks for your thoughts.
  3. Hi Rob, I'd agree with you but I honestly don't see how? The base plate was lifted off, pickups adjusted, lube added then reassembled. I am suspicious of that sprung axel at the front however, maybe giving to much slack to the rods?
  4. Seasons greetings everyone. I was lucky enough to receive a Hattons P class in ROD livery. I started its running in periods and it ran very smoothly however stalled on my points. A quick inspection showed that 50% of the pickups were not in permanent contact with the backs of the wheels. No big problem I thought, so I let it run in and today got ready to remove the base plate to get at the pickups and reshape. First issues is some pillock had glued the brake gear in place so i had to firmly prise this off :( Adjusted the pickups and lubed the bearings and gears. Put her back together and she now runs like a three legged cow :( Kind of lumps with the leading 'spring' wheels seeming to cause the rear drivers to twist and get coupling lock. I've fettled and fiddled for ages and am now at my witts end. Got so locked up once that the gears slid! Any suggestions?
  5. Well, after one more look around I found the missing buffer on the carpet under the radiator in my office! Must have been there two months or more and avoided a number of vacuums lol. Was a to get back on as well. Big lesson, there are just no spares which seem odd.
  6. Gutted! Was running my terrier and suddenly noticed she's lost a buffer off the front, how I did not notice it before I don't know but looking back over some video she'd lost it then. Not listed as a spare part so what are my options? Thanks and seasons greetings.
  7. AHA! Drop link was twisted ever so slightly, reshaped it and now runs much better, still a small stiff spot but I think a bit of running will help. Only disaster is I reversed the motor magnet lol
  8. Hi all, many thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. I've just started working on the loco again now. Its rods and radius arm get stiff on one side near the top of the stroke. I can't see why. The first photo shows the affected side and I've shaded the stiff parts.
  9. Hi again, so four of the bends are done to avoid the crank pins. Straightening them means the pins hit the vale rods. I did tweak the drop link on one side which made things better, however there is still a really tight spot on the main rods one side only causing the engine to slow each revolution. Normally Wrenn stuff is great, but thjis old girl needs more help.
  10. Hi Guys I am just restoring this loco and have come across some weirdness I need advice on place. Done the motor and she now runs ok but the chassis has tight spots and I note on one side the coupling rods are very tight. Also see some odd bushes behind the rods on the crank pins on one side, don't think I have ever noticed that before. Here's some photos. Be most grateful for any assistance. Once it uploads about 15:50 here is a video of her
  11. Hi, my mate has a Rapido Sterling single to sell after his dad passed away. Are they really worth the big prices I am seeing?
  12. Hi guys, so finally after the long wait, my first batches should be on my way to me. I've got the flat roof SR ones coming as well, did I read somewhere they were in use on the IOW?
  13. Well I don't care what anyone says I'm loving mine. Yes had to adjust the pickups but that's basic maintenance anyway, nothings fallen off, don't need a new motor and it looks and runs great. Enjoying the model.
  14. Is this a joke of some kind? I don't get it the title comes direct from the video which is correct?
  15. LOL I see what you did there hahahah
  16. I suspect that Sam's Manor like most of them needs the tender pickups easing which are too stiff and cause the tender wheels to act like the brake is on. It's an easy fix, not a fault and easy fix that people who buy models of this complexity should easily be able to manage. Your comment about how Sam makes his videos is most unfair. This young talented modeler has set the standard for new model reviews, he has a structured method that he sticks to and he is honest in this as credibility and accountability is everything on YouTube. I have had the pleasure of working with him on a number of projects over the years and he has been 100% trustworthy and honest and extremely giving to the community, may I respectfully suggest that some of that generosity of spirit be afforded to this young man who has shown that you don't need to be a crusty old bloke like me to enjoy and contribute to this hobby.
  17. OK, here's one for you, find a model with scale real life people, water, oil, coal and steam? lol
  18. Fixing the drag on the Manor class tender wheels. (1) Referring to the manual turn tender upside down and remove the four screws, one in each corner. (2) Remove the three further screws from the weight and speaker mount as shown, also assist the wire out through the hole. (3) You can now see the pickups, a great idea they rub on the tops of the flanges so should not get dirty, gently flex the pickups up and away from the flanges until they are just touching. Reassemble, (don't forget the wire) make sure to lube the axles.
  19. Hi, I've seen a lot of negative comments and wanted to make sure my video is not misleading anyone. 1) Tender wheels, yes they are stiff due to the pickups, however these are super easy to resolve by pushing them up into the body which reduces the pressure they cause. 2) Middle tender wheels, they do indeed touch the rails! they may be set very slightly up which is a good thing but they touch the rails and spin once the above has been done. 3) chipped paint fireman's side. It's certainly delicate and likely caused by me when handling, a small bit of black paint sorts this out. 4) Cab handrails bent, yeah they were but they are super flexible and just need shaping, no doubt they are made flexible so they don't break. 5) Colour. Looks good to me so I am sharing photos taken in sunlight with the cameras white balance set for sunlight 6) Running qualities, now super smooth and very controllable after a basic running in at 40%
  20. A first look at the all new Dapol Manor 7800 class locomotive. This loco holds a very emotional story for me so I had to pre-order her some time back. She’s here now so in this video we do a ‘sort’ of unboxing and have a look at what Dapol have done. A clue for you! It’s brilliant. Happy to say that running in has greatly smoothed her down. Sand pipe fitted but its a fath lol, Yeah the tender wheels pickups are too stiff, easily sorted using a scalpel, fine screwdriver etc to push the pickup strips off the wheels into the body a little, result much easier running while maintaining pickup. The paint on the running plate is susceptible to chipping.
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