LSWRArtilary

I keep on going back to a project which I would love to make, but it seems really difficult. It is a LSWR / LBSCR joint stock railmotor in 7mm. The body is easy. I designed etchings for LSWR gate stock coaches and, apart from the cab, much of that design could be used for this body. The problem is the motor bogie. It is 2' 8" wheels with 8ft between centres, leaving a gap of 2' 8" between wheels (= 18.6mm) into which has to fit full Walschaert's valve gear. Some of the main problems are: - no one makes suitable wheels, so it is probably a case of getting the tyres turned and then 3D printing the centres. Fortunately the wheels do not need accurate quartering. - I think I would have to 3D design and print the cylinder and traction engine type slide bar - to fit a crosshead 4.5mm across. Complex, but probably do-able. - If the motion is made correctly to scale the parts are as little as 0.8mm across, which feels more like smaller scale modelling. I did an Autocad sketch of the motion and talked to a couple of laser cutting companies who said the parts were too small to laser cut. They suggested etching, but there is often a slight misalignment of the front and back masters. 0.1mm misalignment would be a 12% error on a part 0.8mm across. Also, I do not know any company which will just do just these tiny parts at a sensible cost. I would rather make the bogie before committing to the cost of etching the whole body, which last time I did something similar cost in excess of £100 with etching masters + etching. This is an initial sketch of the parts for the motion (left and right sides): - the return crank needs to have a throw of ~3.1mm and I have not found anything this small, but maybe there is something I could use from one of the smaller scales? So - specific questions: - Have any of you done anything like this? If so useful advice would be gratefully received. Even holding parts this tiny is something of an issue, so advice from smaller scale modellers would be really helpful. - Does anyone make make suitable pins to solder the motion together? I have used 0.65mm nickel plated brass etymological pins in the past, but need something smaller. The pin size determines the hole size. If I had a wall thickness of 0.5mm around the hole, that fixes the minimum boss diameter. What do smaller scale modellers use? - Has anyone had parts like this etched or laser cuts and who offers this service at a sensible price? - Any suitable return crank suppliers? - I know there is someone in the 3mm scale society who makes very nice wheels, who I met at a show last year. He turns metal tyres and 3D prints the plastic centres, but I have lost his contact details. Does anyone have this? Thanks everyone for your help Arthur

Hi Steve, Great model. I am just catching up. Which make are the concrete papers, etc? Thanks, Art

Hello Mirek, This web site is being passed on to lots of other modellers and we are all logging on and are incredibly impressed by your work. Can I ask whether you made your own rivet punch and do you use punches to cut out other small holes - if so, are these commercially available, or do you make your own? Thanks, Art

Hello Martin, Superb scenery! It is incredible how much you achieve in such a short time. Can I ask a few questions: - What is grey A/I (mentioned in connection with distressing wood on the first page of posts). On the same post - by mineral spirits - do you mean white spirits? - You say “Layer over layer is the trick”. But when I have been to electrostatic grass demos at shows, they put down a coat of PVA, stick the probe in this and then put down a grass layer. But you cannot do this for layer over layer. Having put down the first layer, what glue do you use for the subsequent layer and does the probe have to be in this glue, or just nearby? I guessed you might use some type of spray glue, but these range from carpet glue to graphic artists’ Spray Mount adhesive, so I guess it is important to choose the right one. - Sky - did you hand paint this. It is very effective and I notice very few joints. Have you taken it around the corners in curves and, if so, how did you achieve this? - You mentioned that you run courses. Where are they, or will you be demo-ing at any UK shows this year? Thanks, Art

Hi everyone I have 2 questions: - with Winterleys how do they work? I looked at the web site and the video and it seems that they will uncouple anywhere without magnets, so what stops all the stock in a rake becoming uncoupled when you back up and pull away? - fHow do you fix your Sprat and Winkle to white metal kits and, particularly, locos? I bent up the end of the loops and glued these to the back of the buffer beam, but found the glue worked loose after a while. Obviously not a problem where you have a brass kit and can solder the loop on, but I am not sure what to do to get sufficient strength on a white metal kit. Thanks, Arthur