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Sebedee

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  • Location
    Nottingham, UK
  • Interests
    7mm Standard and Narrow guage, GWR, S&D, and Thomas.
    Using Lenz and ROCO DCC.
  1. I've had another look for images and this time used W22W as the Google search term, which revealed some shots on Flickr, which confirm that W22W did / does have these vents. (I still don't know if the Hornby orientation of the vent is is correct though ! Reminds me of my first Ian Kirk 4mm coaches which used Torpedo vents. How was I to know, at the age of 12, that the vents went perpendicular to the direction of travel as opposed to in-line, they're called Torpedoes !) Thanks for the info.
  2. I know this is an old thread, but I was hoping that people who have built models of the Razor Railcars may know an answer to this question... If you look at the picture of the Hornby railcar above (Entry # 3), then please look at the brake end of the roof. As well as the 4 shell vents, you can also see 2 large circular vents above the Brake End. What are these vents for ? and which members of the class needed them ? I have been looking at photographs of the real things and I have not found one that shows these two vents on the roof, but there are very few pictures of the roofs of any railway item, not just the Razors. Ever hopeful...
  3. Mike, so far, so good. The non powered bogie sides are certainly good enough to avoid the need for scratch building the main bulk of the bogie sides. Send us a PM when you're willing to take this further.
  4. Came across this thread when looking for GWR AEC Railcar Bogie Side frames (7mm). Any advance on a product being available ? Zebedee.
  5. Hello, I would just like to ask whether anyone has had any issue lately when taking tools abroad on holiday, specifically for plastikard & cardboard scratch building while on holiday ? And if you regularly take sharp tools abroad and have not had any issues then please could you also reply ? I normally use Scalpels and Swann Morton Craft blades to cut both plastikard and Cardboard, and I would put my small tool sandwich box in my suitcase and therefore they would end up in the aircraft hold but with all the latest changes to what you can and can't take on a plane, it wouldn't surprise me if some of us had a bad experience of an official deciding that these items should not be allowed on a plane. All I got from contacting customs and the airline was a "those items would not be allowed in your cabin luggage", not particularly useful when the question specifically asked about items going into the hold of an aircraft. I've had a look through the forums and not easily found an answer to this question so if the answer is "Please go to a forum called ..." then feel free to answer in that way.
  6. I too am following this post, and I am actively looking at collecting the components to give it a go. The reasons that I have been looking at trying to get an Electronic Flywheel to work is directed firstly at the cost of Motors in O'gauge these days. The suppliers want to charge us £25 odd quid for a double ended motor that can supply enough power and take a flywheel, when some high quality, and highly suitable, single ended Mabuchi's can be found for around £5 each. This makes a terrific difference to the cost of an O'gauge diesel with twin motor bogies. Secondly, there has always been a problem with twin worm drive loco's in that they have the capacity to eat their brass gear wheels. This is not just due to the low ratios used to try to get an irrelevant maximum speed from the loco (with the commensurate increase in friction between the worm and the Gear, as the torque required to just move the loco has been doubled, or the fight that occurs between the two bogies all the time, as one bogey will always want to go a fraction quicker than the other, but it's also due to the added stresses and strains on the gears caused by sudden losses of power stopping the motors, and therefore damaging the gear wheels as the worm stops rotating and the gearwheel is now locked in a battle to the death with a worm that will not move. You would probably only be able to see the damage under a microscope, but it's there and the dents in the gear wheel will increase wear at that spot when the power is reconnected. Do not underestimate the effect of 4 kilograms of rolling stock travelling at a scale 40 mph (40 cm / s - &etc.) upon a worm drive that has lost all it's electric impetus. This version of a UPS has some very interesting features which I believe will be of interest to many other railway modellers. By using a latching relay you are reducing the wastage of volts through the diodes and transistors of other circuits, shame about the rectifier. By using a battery as the power source you can change the Amp-age available for different scales, in N gauge I do not know what you would use, but in O'gauge we could even use one of the micro Lead Acid batteries being used as backup batteries to alarm systems - just remove the sheet lead from your loco and put one of these in ! By keeping the motors rotating we are reducing the wear and tear on the worm drives of our loco's, as we remove the hammer action on the gear wheel caused by a loss of power. And that sum's up what I've always wanted from an 'Electronic Flywheel'. Something which just keeps the motor rotating. In O'gauge we don't need to worry about the loco keeping moving over the dirt, the weight of a passenger train alone will get the loco past the dirt, but I've always thought that if we can keep the motors turning then we should be able to reduce the damage to the mechanisms when the power does drop off, for whatever reason. I'll let you know how I get on. It'll take a month or 2, but I'm building my next chassis at the moment and I'm looking for a nice little Lead Acid battery to put into it, and I don't think a TIP41C is 'excessive', I think 3A is 'required' !
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