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47137

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Everything posted by 47137

  1. Thanks for this. I didn't guess it was 0 scale. I will have to tackle some inset track on my next layout. I have had modest success by making track from code 75 FB rail soldered onto pcb sleepers, set to 16.2 mm gauge (to make the flangeways narrower) and adding inner rails from code 65 FB rail. Next time, I want to try something like 1/16 inch brass 'L' angle for the inner "rails". Something which lets the road surface end up below the running rails (so I can clean still them), and lets me define the flangeway, and, doesn't really show on the finished model. - Richard.
  2. There must be a certain pleasure in completing a model in an afternoon instead of a month or more :-) Is the inset track a test piece or your usual technique? - Richard.
  3. I want to see some of the new(ish) Peco code 70 flexi track. If the sleepers will pass for British size when buried in ash or similar ballast I could include it in my new layout. I've ordered up some of the Peco code 70 flexi track (their SL-7000) to experiment. If my wheel flanges clear the rail fixings and the sleepers can be spaced apart to pass for British ones, I can include it in my new layout. - Richard.
  4. The mock-up of the project now looks like this: I have removed the loco spur to make room for a pair of large vertical storage tanks, these will hide the exit from the layout to the right. I have also made the cardboard "wings" a bit taller. The viewing portal (thinking of this with a cameo style presentation) is going to be fairly tall, but I don't think this will do much harm. The baseboard will probably end up 27 not 24 inches deep, so a taller viewing window will complement the shape of the layout. A non-modelling friend has a suggested a nature reserve. Supposing I represent this with a hide and a car park, I can put cars in the car park to show the period represented. My collection of stock means I can't be too fussy about period at the moment, and the rest of the "scenery" is pretty timeless for the last 50 years. Both of the entrances to the layout are concealed by the wings, without overbridges. There are no civil engineering structures near the track either, so the project suits me to run British outline in H0, 1:82, 00 and even conceivably S-16.5 or 0-16.5 too. Although, if it ever makes it to a show, I'll try to moderate such excesses :-) - Richard.
  5. I've added the Terrier commissioned by Rails of Sheffield to the list. I don't have one of these engines so I am guessing the dimensions of the wheels and wheelbase, but somehow I expect they are correct for its prototype. This model has blackened wheels and a Next18 DCC socket, these might swing the balance over buying a new Hornby model to cut up. - Richard.
  6. I have wanted to start a topic on this subject for a while but it's difficult to know how to get started without seeming biased towards my own choices. I have four types of track on my layout: - SMP Scaleway type J (00 BH), sleepers trimmed to length - Peco Streamline 'fine' (FB code 75), sleeper webs cut and sleepers gapped out to 2'6" pitch - Tillig (FB code 73?), sleeper webs cut and sleepers gapped out like Peco - Kato Unitrack (FB code 83), for a link section without scenery. All of these look good to me, even though the Scaleway rail is too tall (code 75 wanting a "code 68" we cannot buy), and its sleepers are fractionally too broad; and the Peco sleepers are a bit too narrow. My own feeling is, I am happy to build my own turnouts if I feel Peco ones aren't good enough for me, but making plain line by hand in any quantity seems like making work. If I wanted to try I would use 1/8 x 1/16" strip wood, this is readily available in the UK. My biggest difficultly is finding wooden strips precisely 3.5 mm wide to represent turnout timbers. I think such a thing would produce a good-looking result in H0 if used with code 75 BH rail and EM or P4 chairs. It would look better than rail soldered onto 4mm wide copperclad, which is what I have managed so far. - Richard. ECC Wagon on SMP Scaleway with timbers shortened to represent 8' 6" length
  7. I have discovered, Humbrol acrylic matt varnish bonds to these LEDs and their wires easily. I'm using it to hold the wires in place. It ought to be possible to repeatedly dip an LED into the pot of varnish and build up a "lens" to represent some kind of lamp too. - Richard.
  8. Sounds like a plan. This particular LED is a cool white and I might try a blob of amber paint for car headlamps to begin with. Try to tone it in with the other LEDs on the model. - Richard.
  9. I'm trying out some 0603 led from Kytes Lights. Six for £5 with wires attached. This is the first one, it proved a devil to get any glue to stick to the wires so I ended up with a bit of handrail wire: I might ring them up next week. The only solution I can think of is to put heatshrink sleeving over the wires and then glue onto this, but this approach needs a third wire as a stiffener to hold everything straight. - Richard.
  10. Something quite fortuitous is the way I have ended up with a gap through the middle of the model, between the tanks and the steelwork (same photo as I posted yesterday): So on the layout, I will get a glimpse of a train making its way into the scene, but not the overhang of the buffers on the two-chain curve. - Richard.
  11. Ian thank you for your kind comments. The kit was a bit of an eye-opener for me, I somehow remember the plastic kits of my youth as things I glued together in a few evenings! It's a clever kit - it persuades you to think it looks like a real oil refinery, even though it's the size of a couple of good-size detached houses with their gardens, or perhaps a block of inner-urban flats. Footprint as built by me is 40 x 25 cm, this scales up to about 35 x 22 metres. The kit instructions take you to a squarer model. If anyone fancies tackling the kit, I would buy two of them and unify them into a single plant. A refinery with duplicated sets of primary plant on the ground level and duplicated retorts would look quite business-like, and wouldn't be dwarfed by a rake of tankers. The build time would probably be half as long again not double, the hardest part will be interpreting the instructions. However, I have my 5ft 4in alcove, and either I will build my industrial scene to fit into it, or reduce this section of my layout to something like a sweeping viaduct in open countryside. I would love to build "Shelf Marshes" about 7 ft long with a 30-inch minimum radius; but if I do this it won't slot into the scheme for "Shelf Island" in a topologically sensible way unless I build it as a peninsular coming into the middle of the room. This is physically possible but too challenging to live with ... life was bad enough having a picnic table of Faller bits in the middle of the room for a month :-) - Richard.
  12. I reckon, I have finished the chemical plant kit. It seemed to "become complete" as it were when I put in the last of the railings. I suppose, by then it looked complete; I had given up on the instructions and improvised for a few days: My total time for the build was about 85 hours. Gulp. This includes making the base (c. 7 hours!) and building-in and connecting the lighting (c. 5 hours). It also includes my efforts to make the decks (floors) stronger, to neaten up the edges of the floors, and re-attaching railings which kept falling off until I got some stronger solvent. It also include many hours spent painting parts along the way. I haven't included the time spent backtracking from the first base, or building the portable office building (Kibri) ... I suppose these would take me over 90 hours. I've put a few more photos on the SI Modelling topic, links here to avoid cross-posting: Completed model Night shot Workers on level 4 I have missed out some of the internal pipework from the kit. I might put some of this in one day, but my efforts now are minor tidying-up tasks. Really, this means hiding things a more skilled person would have avoided in the first place :-) - Richard.
  13. When I was a student the landlord provided a fridge a bit like this. One day someone turned it up to ITV or something (this was from a 405 line TV) and everything went off. - Richard.
  14. Of course! Have the little people finishing the build. The plant is incomplete; it's not making noises or smells. So have the 1:87 folk apparently putting pipes into the space where my fingers won't go: I'm not sure if the guy is pointing at something or gesturing with a karate chop, but I like this. This sort of model is never "finished" so to speak and here I can show this is the case. This model is now "finished"! - Richard.
  15. These LEDs are rather good, and indeed very good value for money! I ground down the encapsulating resin on the backs of them to make them easier to stick into place and overdid this on one, so I ended up using 29 out of the 30 in the string. Here is the overall effect, in my garden at dusk yesterday: The naked LED on its own bottom left is for a small building. The LEDs are running on 3V from two AA batteries and no series resistor at the moment. I think I've ended up with a nice spread of light but I could experiment with a low-value resistor to calm them all down a bit. - Richard.
  16. It's been fun to take some photos in the early morning sunlight. If I get too close I can find some awful bits, like this particular piece of railings which kept falling off and took far too much solvent to get it to hold: (Also please excuse my use of horizontal H beam where it should be I beam but it is all I had at home and it is very small) BUT I can also see how some film sets can come into being - if I can hide the holes in the steelwork this isn't far short of convincing: There are 29 LEDs in the model, so there is scope for night-time shots too. This project has taught me so much about comprehending the big picture and getting the right overall effect but I don't know how to get this across very well in words. - Richard.
  17. One month on, it is "built". I have written out a short snag list for the model, and I am now pondering what it needs in the way of extras and details: I've put another photo from this morning on the SI Modelling topic, I am hoping people will reply but maybe of course they are as innocent of the subject matter as me :-) - Richard. Edit: link is https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/152919-si-modelling/page/10/&tab=comments#comment-3974313
  18. Patience! It's still growing: I've got all I can from the kit instructions so I'm making it up as I go along. I can add some smaller pipes and figures. If folk can "see" what else might be missing please do say. Edit: I've ordered up some H&S signage from Sankey Scenics, this should help reduce the bareness. - Richard.
  19. There is a nicely upbeat DIY competition running in the micro layouts and dioramas section: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/153549-a4-diorama-competition-2020/ No prizes, just people enjoying the hobby. - Richard.
  20. The model is going together so well, I thought I'd best post some photos of my progress yesterday. Otherwise the model will seem to go from a pile of bits to completion all in one go. The detailing on the ground below the main structure is fiddly because you want to fix down the main structure before you add the details, but they have to go into the build at the very beginning. So here is one of the assemblies of details lifted out of the way while I glue the base of the "small retort"(?) onto the base: The base is card and the glue soaked away and hid itself. Fortunately things then got a lot easier. Everything here is now fixed down: The rectangle at the right is the base of Kibri portable office, this model has been looking for a home for months. This leaves me to add a few more major items; complete the lighting; and touch in the paint damaged by repeatedly re-gluing the bits of railings which kept falling off. Incidentally, the jar of Humbrol Liquid Poly suggested by Ian Simpson finally arrived yesterday. Too late for the build but it looks like a runny version of Revell Liquid Contacta. I'm sure it will be useful. - Richard.
  21. At the start of week 5, I have cleared the untouched parts away and the build has largely reduced to fixing two dozen or so subassemblies onto the base and onto each other: Only two of my original labels have survived this far. The scrap of purple post-it note is there to remind me of a weak joint I can break apart to adjust the positions of the large tanks. I cannot imagine what it would be like to tackle this kit for a few hours a week as 'hobby evening', or even alongside a full-time job - I know I would run out of momentum. I've now logged 71 hours on the build, including painting, making the base and installing its lighting switch and battery box. - Richard.
  22. These would be about 12% smaller in each linear dimension than an 00 van, if an 00 model existed. Maybe there are some kits? I suppose, the selection of Continental ferry vans available RTR is a modest advantage of H0 of 00 for particular layouts. You can run British outline H0 trains on an 00 layout with a bearable aesthetic as long as you remove every 00 train from view - they clash. - Richard.
  23. The main structure of the chemical plant has become completely unwieldy since I attached its lighting so I have turned my attention to a base for the whole model. I found an offcut of 1/8 inch three-ply under the bed and I have cut this to a shape to hold the whole model and still fit into the space available with a bit of leeway all round: I reinforced it underneath with bits of stripwood and strips of the same plywood: Really this is like a miniature baseboard, and it took me nearly as long to build! It is not especially strong but it is very rigid - I think fixing some supports diagonally helps this. There are five different sizes of stripwood in here but I got some satisfaction from using up what I had at home without a trip to B&Q. The framework is fairly shallow along the middle because I am expecting this base to straddle a baseboard support when I build the baseboard. My plan now is to add a battery box and a switch underneath so the building lighting works as a stand-alone model. Add some card to represent concrete onto the top. Then assemble the various parts of the model onto this. "The end is in sight". - Richard.
  24. I guess cycle shops will still sell individual spokes, these are quite good as push rods.
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