Jump to content

47137

RMweb Gold
  • Content Count

    2,018
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 47137

  1. I am convinced, the root of success in using H0 for British subjects is, to make compromises on a model-by-model basis. This is a rather different approach to that of N ("British N"!), 00 and 0 where one all-embracing compromise applies to every model. Anyway, it works for me. I try to not write the word "outline" too often because I run a MaK Di-8 on my layout and this is way outside the British outline. Also a French shunter which is to British outline but probably never worked here :-) - Richard.
  2. Here is my Roco S160 posed on a radius 2 curve. A 2-8-0 is never going to be pretty sight on such a tight curve, but the engineering design works well and the model meets Roco's claim for operation on a 438 mm curve. Actually, all of my H0 RTR runs on these curves. Yes, the pony truck wheel is in front of the cylinder, and of course this won't suit every British prototype. A bit of a long shot I know, but it would help everyone if those who try to detract from the usability of H0 for British outline could work from facts instead of posting sweeping and unfounded generalisations. - Richard.
  3. I agree with you entirely. I have spent some years pondering whether I should be writing about British H0 or British HO, and really the "British" qualifier is quite unnecessary. It would only be meaningful if British applications of H0 used some peculiar ratio. I've spent an hour or so editing my blog to remove my worst references to "British" H0, but with 80 odd pages it will take some time to get through the lot. Many thanks. - Richard.
  4. You've completely lost me here. The BYA is a wagon with wheels between the solebars rather than underneath them, and I made my post to stimulate discussion of possible wheel options. Steam locomotives are well-understood by contributors here and irrelevant to a BYA. I respectfully suggest, you simply forget the fact that H0 scale models happen to use the same 16.5 mm track gauge as your DOGA '00'. British H0 is a specialised and minority interest, unconnected to 00 and irrelevant to you. Pretend, if you possibly can, that H0 is simply a scale chosen by other people, much like TT or S. Reiterating one well-known limitation of the scale serves no benefit to you or your organisation, let alone anyone else or this thread. - Richard.
  5. I bought a job lot of the Steam Era Models wheels a while ago and they are my go-to to Lima coaches. In fact I used them all up on a rake of Mk2 coaches so now I end up robbing this rake when I rebuild a Mk1. I actually started a rebuild of a Mk1 BSK, inspired by your courier van and with an intention to build my own courier van, but so far I've rebuilt only the chassis and couplers. The body shell and roof would be separate project. I like the SEM wheels but at the moment I am running ordinary code 110 wheels where they are good ones, and the Life-Like ones supplied with the BYA kit are very nicely made. I have a feeling, the SEM ones would look better on just about any model, but on the BYA the lesser wheel thicknesses won't usefully improve the model's ability to go round tight curves. I've got Ultrascale wheels on my Fleischmann Warship and they really improve the look of a model like this a great deal. - Richard.
  6. A year on, I have just finished building a kit for a BYA covered steel wagon, and I think it is worth posting a photo here to show how a British outline model with bogies copes with curves. In essence, 1) the usual code 110 RP-25 wheel is about twice the scale width of a prototype wheel 2) we expect model trains to go round curves far tighter than the prototype 3) the solebars of a model are often thicker than their scale thickness This leads us to expect to run out of width, but in truth my BYA negotiates a radius 2 curve without difficulty. I hollowed out the solebars to let it negotiate a radius 1 curve too: I think this helps to show, 1:87 scale is a practical proposition for modern prototypes. I am enjoying a layout where the overall appearance of models on the track is correct (scale gauge) and I can exploit tight curves on hidden tracks. Edit: it has occurred to me a photo of the wagon on a curve would be good. This is radius 2: I don't think code 100 rail works at all well with H0, but otherwise the overall effect isn't so bad. - Richard.
  7. ... and a day later I have finally finished building the model. Very pleased. - Richard.
  8. I put off adding the coupler cams because they really do have to be "spot on" but this task is finally done and the end of the project is in sight :-)
  9. I like the engine shed. I think it's "necessary" to justify the kick-back, this will be difficult to shunt with wagons. Could you miss out the footpath along the top of the embankment? You could have a fence here to suggest the path beyond, and then soften the angle of the embankment. Or even arrange for a flight of steps from the footbridge descending between the tracks, towards the Y point at the front of the layout. This ought to help with blocking the view too. I can imagine an ash pit in front of the engine shed and a small but substantial-looking water tower in front of the track here too. - Richard.
  10. It's funny but I was thinking to myself "I expect there are Continental equivalents of firms like ABS and Markits and so on" but I couldn't think where to ask. I am determined to make a nice model out of this because someone told me the manufacturer got a lot of knocks for it. It isn't really that bad; you don't expect a kit to be as easy as a Tamiya or Revell model, the weakest point is the instructions and the rather wishy-washy approach to engineering design. Which, as an engineer, I feel duty-bound to make better :-) Richard.
  11. I my own blog, I use SHIFT+ENTER to create new lines in the sidebar, and then a simple ENTER when I want to begin a new block of text. In the editor both sorts of new line look the same: But the web site renders them like this, with extra space before "Main Baseboard": I have done quite a lot of faffing around to get this sidebar looking presentable, but now it is done I can add slot in new topics when I write them. Hope this helps. - Richard.
  12. I've made some new buffers and added the detail parts to the body shell. Construction really is a lot easier the second time round and I am so glad I didn't try to "batch build" the two kits together.
  13. I have had a go at making some buffers with styrene patches on Electrotren heads, and styrene backs and buffer beams: All I can do now is wait and see how well they survive on the layout. I use NEM couplers and the buffers should never touch those on another model. Thanks for all of the ideas. - Richard.
  14. I have a feeling any 0 gauge buffer would be a bit big, but thanks for the link. -Richard.
  15. I've lowered the chassis onto its bogies, to correct the ride height, and the model is still going to run well. I'm very pleased with this.
  16. This is a kind offer and I have found your buffers on Shapeways. Unfortunately Shapeways need a whopping £15.66 to send them to the UK, and really this too much for me, at least at the moment. Let me try and make something, I'll report back. - Richard.
  17. One more photo of the lighting cover. This is the power inlet, underneath the front left of the cover. I find glass plates quite useful where there is a panel-mounted component but no panel, this one has a keyhole slot and didn't need any modification to attach the connector. - Richard.
  18. I think it will be hard to hide the fiddle yard completely, but how about a factory or warehouse building in front with a nicely-modelled interior? This building could have a detachable roof so you can lift off the roof to operate the layout from in front. Plus a vertical oil storage tank to mask the track going behind the building. - Richard.
  19. Guys you have given me an idea. Electrotren modern wagon buffer heads are 6 mm (max) x 4 mm. I could try putting some thin styrene rectangles on top of these, there will be minimal overhang and I might even replicate the curved faces. - Richard.
  20. I am building a second kit for a BYA covered steel wagon. This post follows on from my first attempt, which came out reasonably well but rides too high on its bogies. The details on this model are far too fragile too. 1. Detail parts fret (29 November 2019) I have started the second model with the fret for the detail parts. This is etched from 0.2 mm (8 thou) brass and some of the parts are half-etched into this, so the details have the strength of kitchen foil. They bend every time I look at the model, let alone pick it up. The model needs four handles and four sets of steps. The fret has four handles and six sets of steps. So, I have taken the four handles from the first kit and soldered them back-to-back onto the four new handles. This is easier than it looks, I used a Peco track pin to align the holes. Then I backed up the four sets of steps with the spares from both kits. The results are hugely stronger than the originals, and any excess thickness is not going to show after cleaning up and painting: The next step is to sort out the ride height and make sure the model can still go round my trainset curves. 2. Lowering onto bogies (30 November 2019) I have lowered the chassis on its bogies, and the model successfully negotiates radius 2 and even radius 1 curves: The work involved removing all of the moulded resin mounts and inserting M2 threaded bushes. Here is one of the bushes before finally tapping it home: With the chassis sitting at a scale height, the wheels are of course inside the solebars and not below them. The solebars and wheels are much thicker than their scale thicknesses, but the wagon would still go round a radius 2 curve. I cut away some patches on the insides of the solebars to let it go round a radius 1 curve too. This is very important to me, because it proves that I can make a British outline bogie wagon, able to negotiate a "trainset" curve, in 1:87 scale, without any obvious adjustments to the width of the model. The major RTR manufactures have been doing this for years - good examples are the Night Ferry coaches from LS Models and ferry wagons from Roco - but these manufacturers have the advantages of CAD systems and the ability to fine-tune their designs before they go into production. The chassis seems to run reliably in its "push along" state without proper bogie pivots and is even more free-running than the first attempt at the kit. When the NEM pockets go in these will be at their usual height and there may be problems with their couplers fouling the undersides of the buffers. I'll have to watch out for this, but fundamentally this second kit looks like it can build into a scale model able to run on my layout. What I would like to do now is to work up the resin 'cover' (the body) and the chassis as two separate assemblies, so I only fit them together near the end of the build. 3. Buffers (1 December 2019) I managed to destroy all of the buffers of the first kit during the build. This led me to take the buffers from this second kit to finish the first kit. I have had a go at making some new ones. These are from 1/8 inch styrene tube with the bore opened up to 2 mm. There are short pegs from 2 mm diameter rod to attach the tubes onto the buffer beams, and patches of styrene on top of Electrotren buffer heads to represent the rather plain heads on the prototypes: Full of enthusiasm I have fixed these onto the body shell. I'm not sure if this was sensible, because the couplers on the first wagon are very close underneath its buffers, and I've lowered the chassis for this second model. Time will tell. I now have an Electrotren wagon without any buffer heads, but at least I can rob another Electrotren model to resupply it one day. Of course, at this rate I will always have one wagon without any buffers ... 4. Latch details (1 December 2019) My build sequence for this kit is completely different to the approach suggested in the instructions, but it is working for me. My next step was to build up the latch details on the ends of the body shell. I will leave off the handles until near the end of the build: I do not understand why some kit manufacturers choose to use such thin brass for parts. The brace is barely 0.1 mm (4 thou) thick and it will not stay flat, despite three goes at fixing it. It doesn't line up with the resin parts too well either, but fortunately this photo is a great deal larger than the model. The next step has got to be, to add the coupler cams. I must fix these higher than I did last time, to clear the wheels under the lowered chassis. 5. Couplers (9 December 2019) I am using Symoba cams because they are compact and it is easy to adjust the height of the NEM 362 pockets. These cams don’t have holes for mounting screws, so I set them in a bed of epoxy resin (Araldite). Please excuse me if this description is a bit long-winded. I will probably never build another kit for a British H0 wagon (no kits exist) so I may as well include all the details here. I carved away the resin chassis casting to make room for the cams, and fixed them into place with tiny dabs of cyanoacrylate. The cams must go in “square”, with the spigot central to the model and truly vertical. In addition, there has to be enough space to let the coupler pocket swing between the nearest wheels but not touch their axle. Then I added temporary dams to contain the Araldite. The dams are strips of styrene, held in place with double-sided sticky tape. The idea is, the Araldite sticks to the adhesive on the sticky tape, but far more strongly than the adhesive sticks to its tape, so everything peels apart afterwards. I poured in enough Araldite to fill the voids around the cams and left this overnight to cure: And then, with the Araldite nicely set, I peeled the dams away: With the buffer beams fixed onto the cover moulding with patches of styrene sheet (step 3 above), the cover is a light interference fit onto the chassis. I don’t need to fix the cover in place, and I can experiment with different ballast weights one day. I put the bogies onto the model with a couple of temporary screws and washers so I could set the height of the NEM sockets: For a fully “correct” installation, the Symoba gauge (photo above) should be touching the buffer heads. I have a larger gap on my model to make sure the buffers do not touch on a 450 mm (radius 2) curve, and because I am using the Symoba ‘standard length’ NEM socket. If I had only larger curves, I could use the Symoba ‘short’ NEM socket. I cannot put the cam further inside the wagon because either NEM socket would then collide with the wheels on the bogie. Finally, I gave the model some test runs. Even without a ballast weight installed, the model stayed on the track. With the NEM sockets at the correct height, there is just enough free space for my Roco universal couplers to swing below the buffers, and so the installation of the couplers is complete: I now have the essence of a model wagon, needing only its proper bogie pivots, a ballast weight and the final details. 6. Completing the Chassis (10 December 2019) The bogie pivots are to the design I devised for my first BYA wagon. The pivot is a gearbox bush fixed into the bogie frame, swivelling around a shouldered spacer made from 1.8 inch brass tube with a similar bush soldered on. For this second model there is a washer made from 0.75 mm styrene to set the final ride height: The whole assembly is held together by an M2 screw tightened into the brass bush in the chassis: The ballast for the model is about 50 grams of roofing lead. The lower strip is glued onto the chassis and the second strip is held by two M2 screws so I can remove it or add more weight if this proves worthwhile in the future: The total weight of the model is 115 grams, close to the NMRA recommendation for a wagon of this length and equating to about 1 ounce on each axle. The brake wheel and brake indicator are from the kit, with their backs reinforced with Araldite: I added the horizontal strips below the solebars from styrene because the kit parts do not fit and are far too fragile: It's funny how the camera reveals little bits I never thought were still there. In fact, the camera is a very useful tool before calling a model "finished". The four foot steps are also glued onto the chassis: Their tops meet up with the underneath of the cover moulding. 7. Completing the Cover Latches (10 December 2019) My final task for the cover moulding was to add the handles for the latches and the second lengths of brass wire between them: 8. Finishing the Model (0 December 2019) The cover moulding sits on top of the chassis. The cover is held in place by a light interference fit at its two ends and doesn’t need further fixing. This completes the model: I am pleased with this, I feel I have made a truly scale model and it can negotiate a radius 2 or even radius 1 curve on my layout. I am not too sure about painting it, this goes wrong too often for me. At the moment I want to find someone who can paint it for me, though I accept I ought to be able to manage the primer. It is probably best to just use the model on the layout for a while and to see how well it runs.
  21. A nice suggestion but I suspect even Markits don't know what they make - their web site tells us "Link to dowload old catalogue have been removed until we can publish the new catalogue". Only round and oval buffers in their 2013 catalogue. I'm thinking along the lines of spare parts for something RTR but I have no idea what the source model would be. - Richard.
  22. I wonder if someone could tell me where I could look for some buffers with rectangular heads measuring 7 x 4 mm. Just the heads would be fine, or if they were complete then around 7.5 mm deep front to back. The size is important (within 0.5 mm or so) but the construction and the material they are made from is not. - Richard.
  23. It's funny how two model train fans can find much the same product just right and completely useless. The controller I received does flash patterns, flash rate, brightness and colour temperature, of which only the last is useful for the layout and touching the wrong button sends me into a cycle of unwanted strobe effects. I tried to send the lighting unit back for a refund, but the return address is to China, not to London as indicated in the listing - international postage throwing good money after bad. For the layout, I'll stay with the original lighting strip and my blobs of amber paint, but I can tuck the new lighting strip away and maybe find a better controller for it one day. - Richard.
  24. I have rebuilt the latch details on the ends of the wagon, and permed this into the blog post. A lot of work, but better than living with something wrong built according to wrong instructions. This has rendered some earlier comments irrelevant, so I've deleted them.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.