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47137

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Posts posted by 47137

  1. 2 hours ago, AY Mod said:
    • The uploaded images from the last year could, sadly, not be recovered from Dediserve. Older images should be largely intact although further checks are being made. Users will be able to edit earlier posts and re-upload images if they wish. It’s far from ideal and I’m furious with Dediserve for their failings in this regard.

     

    I started my blog in March 2015 and images are missing going back to the first post. Efforts spread over seven years seem to be ruined.

     

    I wonder ... can I expect to see any of my missing photos restored during the next month or so? So I can decide whether to accept my losses, or try to rebuild the blog, or abandon the project altogether.

     

    - Richard.

    • Agree 1
    • Friendly/supportive 8
  2. Looking at my locomotives which don't really fit in a 2010s setting I have these:

     

    • Matchbox MB-24 motorised (k)
    • English Electric class 11 in privatised livery
    • Warship 'Glory' (the Ultrascale wheels on this run badly on the Setrack point) (k)
    • Ex-Isle of Wight E1 (now unpowered, works well for topped and tailed operations) (k)
    • USATC S100
    • USATC S160
    • "Class 34 D6400" (fictional prototype for the class 33) (k)
    • AEI class 81 (k)

     

    The ones marked (k) have Kadee couplers. The others have a mixture of NEM sockets and wedgy slots.

     

    If I ignore the class 81, everything else has or can reasonably have a slightly Southern region character.

     

    How about moving the layout to the English mainland and calling it the Mid-Wessex Railway? Or perhaps a better name? Such a project could be quite a good showcase for British H0 if I can take it to shows.

     

    - Richard.

    • Like 2
    • Agree 1
  3. 8 hours ago, ISW said:

    Have you considered using different couplers and/or relocating them on your stock to alleviate the problem?

     

    I hadn't, but you have certainly got me thinking again about them ...

     

    I began my British H0 experience with Kadees and these were fine until I realise most of my stock had close-coupling mechanisms (NEM sockets on cams) and I would get a much better appearance if I used suitable close-coupling heads. I then added cams wherever I could to the rolling stock I had built myself and settled on the Roco "Universal" head and "decided" this was my choice of coupler.

     

    I have collected up British outline H0 models from all sorts of periods and told myself these belong to the Shelf Island Railway Preservation Society. The Society runs passenger trains at weekends and hires out some of its locomotives to the main railway. Some of these models still have Kadees because I cannot convert them to anything else. Most of the preseved stock is shorter and will look a lot better on the 18-inch curve.

     

    How about re-purposing "Shelf Marshes" as the home of the Society? There is nothing in the scenery to put a date on the layout except for the low platform and its OLED display intended for the tram. The model could be present-day or set back in the 1970s or 80s. The locos can give brake van rides and haul short freight trains for photographic purposes. The space for the chemical plant can hold my collection of classic sports cars, this will reinforce the unfamiliar scale for exhibition use and I can claim this is a car club meet. The two exchange sidings at the front can hold stock being restored.

     

    The rolling stock can have Kadees throughout, these will plug into the NEM sockets where they aren't already fitted in the draught gear boxes. The layout would work with no fiddle yard at all, and work better with a short stub strack to allow access to the passenger platform.

     

    There ought to be relatively little coupling and uncoupling in such a scene.

     

    - Richard.

    • Like 3
  4. "Shelf Marshes" has problems. In particular, the chemical plant makes it nigh impossible to reach trains on the 90-degree curve - the plant hides the curve too well. In addition, the installation of the layout in my hobby room puts the lighting rig and top of the fascia right in my line of view.

     

    The visual effect of a train passing behind the open steelwork of the chemical plant is good, but I am finding it really difficult to couple and uncouple trains on the curve, exactly where many coupling operations need to take place. There are a couple of factors causing problems here – the difficulty of manipulating close couplers on a tight curve as well as the difficult access. This layout really needs access from above to make it work, as at an exhibition, but few exhibition visitors are going to tolerate the difficulty of coupling and uncoupling for very long.

     

    I have tried running the layout without the chemical plant. This makes access a lot easier, but the sight of my mainline diesel locomotives and bogie wagons on the curve just makes a mockery of the whole project. The layout would look a whole lot better moved back to the 1970s or so and using smaller locomotives and rolling stock. I have some British outline H0 models to do this, but the period doesn’t fit in at all with the 2010s setting of my “Shelf Island” project.

     

    In engineering terms I think of verification and validation. Verification here being making sure the design meets my technical requirements (it does) and validation being the confirmation I have done the right thing (it doesn’t). I like the track plan and the concept of exchange sidings with access from from both ends of the module, but I don’t like the cramped nature of this layout. At least with modern rolling stock.

     

    A part of me wants to build “Shelf Marshes” again but on much larger baseboards, perhaps around 2.4m x 0.8m and with a minimum radius around 800-900mm instead of 450mm. Such a model could actually become my complete home layout, tucked into a corner with a fiddle yard to the right and a connection to a small terminus at the left. Another part of me wants to develop what I have built, to add a small oil storage depot in place of the chemical plant (something I can reach over) and maybe a second Magnorail system. This would make the layout pleasing to look at, keep a good visual balance and make for some activity between movements of the trains.

     

    For the time being, I have decided to mothball the layout. I have had 3+ months of looking at it in the hobby room, but it is just that bit too cramped to make operations enjoyable.

     

    - Richard.

    • Friendly/supportive 3
  5. To wrap this topic up: "Wellwood" made no progress during the last five months. The module still looks okay in photographs but the aesthetic in real life was wrong to me. There wasn't enough room for the scenic development I wanted to try, the fascia jarred against the front of "Shelf Marshes", and the track was too close to the backscene board. And above all, the module only existed to connect Shelf Marshes to the rest of my layout.

     

    So today I removed the Wellwood module and dismantled it. The backscene board is good for another project. The timber was pine stripwood from B&Q and despite my best efforts I never hauled it quite straight enough. The track bed section was okay for Unitrack but not flat enough for a P4 test track (which was the only new use I could think of) so I have disposed of the rest of the module.

     

    So, the end of Wellwood, and free space in the room for something better.

     

    - Richard.

    • Friendly/supportive 1
  6. On 13/03/2022 at 10:38, Compound2632 said:

     

    It's just the standard "taking a photo of me asleep in an amusing location is an intrusion of my privacy" cat look.

    Just about all of my photos of Harry are of him asleep. This is because, apart from eating, sleeping is pretty much all he does here. He doesn't really know how to play, which is a great pity. I have just about trained him to merely nip me and not bite me, but in truth sleeping is his main activity. His own household brought a new baby home a week ago and I think my house is a bit of a sanctuary.

     

    He is getting a window sill habit. I think this started because he can watch his own household and soak up the sun. The one in the kitchen is a new place for him, I think he is exhausted by the new arrival.

     

    - Richard.

     

    1505617773_2022-03-1211_09_17.jpg.9603eb3b9026ba098918239845cdbe11.jpg

    • Like 12
    • Friendly/supportive 5
  7. 15 hours ago, MarcD said:

    I've built both not much between them in my book. I used glue rather than solder. Only issue I had with them was the thickness of the con-rod nut on the leading wheel catching on the back of the rod from the cylinder.got round this by using thread bushes.

    Marc

    Welcome to the RMweb and I do hope you enjoy your time here. I have learnt so much here over the years, especially on subjects at the level between the 'how to' articles in the popular magazines and finished models they put into their layout features.

     

    - Richard.

  8. These comments are most helpful.

     

    A whitemetal superstructure is usually straightforward to understand how the model is supposed to go together, even if some parts need alterations and filler. Given the coffee pot is an attractive model and perfect for a compact industrial setting, I might just phone Springside and ask them about special tools or techniques needed to complete the model, especially the chassis.

     

    - Richard.

  9. PS.

     

    I edited my expired listing before posting it. So after eBay automtically relisted it, I could see which listing to keep and which to delete. I must confess I have never gained much from the eBay listing offers. They seem to wait for me to list a few things (and I can go for months without listing anything), and then send me an offer ...

     

    - Richard.

  10. I am contemplating my first 7mm loco kit. At the moment I have a short list of two Springside kits, their Neilson 'Coffee Pot' and their Manning Wardle saddle tank, both small 0-4-0 designs. Both appeal to me because they are whitemetal and I am much more confident with this material than brass; and either would suit my layout project.

     

    I wonder whether we know, is one of these kits noticeably easier than the other; or indeed does one have a fiendish detail not really suitable for a beginner? Yes I know I'm not an outright beginner but some loco kits do rather fill me with a sense of dread.

     

    If they are evenly matched then I might choose the coffee pot because there is always a tiny chance I will find an Ixion MW to buy one day.

     

    - Richard.

  11. 5 minutes ago, petethemole said:

    It is possible when relisting an item to do it twice, generating a duplicate listing.  Don't ask me how as it happens by accident.  The duplicate gets flagged up with a note that it will only be shown when the first item sells.  So if you took no notice you could end up with a live listing for something you no longer have.

    I managed to achieve this five minutes ago!

     

    The trick seems to be, if a listing expires then wait for eBay to automatically relist it. Then edit this version if you want to revise the listing.

     

    If you click the "relist" button, you end up with a duplicate. Well this is what happened to me.

     

    - Richard.

  12. Following on from discussions in the commercial items topic I have put some minor updates into the tables in the first post:

    • For a LSWR G6, a J72 is a far better starting point then a Terrier
    • I've added the Lima GWR 45xx prairie as a way to build a 61xx large prairie

    I have omitted the Ivatt 2MT and the classes 40/44/45/46 (above) for the time being simply because I hope they turn out to be a success but at the moment I am not quite sure whether they are suitable.

     

    The most recent posts here do show how much the tables reflect my own preferences for small locomotives without leading or trailing wheels ... I am sure there are are other RTR donors for large steam locomotives especially the BR standard designs with a high running plate. I can put them into the tables if I find out what they are.

     

    - Richard.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  13.  

    3 hours ago, PieGuyRob said:

    I didn't realise that BR added swimming pools when the class 110's were put through refurbishment! (Sorry I don't know how to post links).

     

    Like all these things it is easy enough after you know but not remotely intuitive.

     

    Copy the address from the web page you want to link to (put the address into the clipboard).

     

    Then find the button fifth from the left in the RMweb reply box:

    1795304402_Screenshot2022-02-0817_46_04.png.5dc9e4e3aa012b101202fd66e461df26.png

     

    The button with the chain.

    A  pop-up box opens; paste the address into the box labelled "URL".

    HTH.

     

    - Richard.

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  14. 11 hours ago, Ian Simpson said:

     

    --- and perhaps an 00 BR Standard Class 3 2-6-2T could become a H0 Class 4 2-6-4T ?

    (Edit: although looking at the picture, the front of the water tanks seems to be a bit too far forward on a Class 3, compared with a Class 4 ...)

     

    Thinking about only the wheels of the two prototypes and staying with Mike Sharman's book:

     

    Standard class 3 2-6-2T:

    Leading and trailing wheels 3' scale up to 36 * 87/76 = 41", which is overscale for the 3' of the class 4 prototype

    Driving wheels 5'3" scale up to 63* 87/76 = 72", which is underscale for the 5'8" of the prototype

     

    I would not be terribly worried about wheels being 1mm too big or too small, but a conversion might look a bit odd if some wheels are 1mm too big and some are 1mm too small. Then again, the class 3 model is so old we might want to fit new wheels all round.

     

    - Richard.

    • Like 2
  15. On 04/02/2022 at 20:46, Ian Simpson said:

    There's a couple of interesting loco conversion suggestions in Jim Smith's "Modelling British stock in H0 scale" aricle in the November 2021 Railway Modeller:

    "... a Lima GWR 45xx Prairie in 00 scale could be modified to become a GWR 61xx large Prairie in H0 scale, while the Airfix/Dapol kit for a Standard Class 4MT 2-6-0 can be adapted to become a Standard Class 5MT 4-6-0 with very little modification. ... In most cases I found that lowering the cab, reducing the chimney and dome and setting the buffers to 20mm apart goes a considerable way to changing the proportions of the model without any chassis modifications."  The article also shows how he converted a Mainline / Bachmann J72 into a LSWR G6.

     

    I have dug out Mike Sharman's book on wheel specifications for the modeller for the two larger locos.

     

    I don't have either of the donor models, but supposing the wheels are accurate for 4mm scale this is how they work out for H0:

     

    Lima GWR 45xx Prairie in 00 scale

    Leading wheels 3'2" scale up to 38 * 87/76 = 44", which is overscale for the 3'2" of the 61xx prototype

    10 spokes on a 45xx and 61xx

     

    Driving wheels 4'7"  scale up to 55 * 87/76 = 63", which is underscale for the 5'8" of the 61xx prototype

    14 spokes on a 45xx but 18 spokes on a 61xx

     

    Trailing wheels 3'2" scale up to 38 * 87/76 = 44", which is good for the 43" of the prototype

    10 spokes on a 45xx and 61xx

     

    Airfix/Dapol kit for a Standard Class 4MT 2-6-0 in 00 scale

    I guess this is suggested as a model for static display

     

    Leading wheels 3' scale up to 36 * 87/76 = 41", which is overscale for the 3' of the 5MT prototype

    9 spokes on a 4MT and 5MT

     

    Driving wheels 5'3" scale up to 63 * 87/76 = 72", which is good for the 6'2" of the 5MT prototype

    16 spokes on a 4MT and 20 spokes on a 5MT

     

    --

     

    I don't really know anything about outside-cylindered steam locos - to be honest, I wouldn't choose H0 if I wanted to have very many of them. On the positive side, Rapido have shown us with their J70 tram how slender such outside cylinders can be made, just 29mm outside width.

     

    I am not really fussed about the number of spokes on wheels in H0 scale either, but maybe these notes can be useful to someone. It is the overall effect that counts, and most any H0 wagon, coach or diesel loco looks more convincing to me than an 00 one unless the 00 model is sat in a display cabinet. This was a useful and encouraging article.

     

    - Richard.

     

     

    • Agree 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  16. On 04/02/2022 at 20:46, Ian Simpson said:

    There's a couple of interesting loco conversion suggestions in Jim Smith's "Modelling British stock in H0 scale" aricle in the November 2021 Railway Modeller:

    "... a Lima GWR 45xx Prairie in 00 scale could be modified to become a GWR 61xx large Prairie in H0 scale, while the Airfix/Dapol kit for a Standard Class 4MT 2-6-0 can be adapted to become a Standard Class 5MT 4-6-0 with very little modification. ... In most cases I found that lowering the cab, reducing the chimney and dome and setting the buffers to 20mm apart goes a considerable way to changing the proportions of the model without any chassis modifications."  The article also shows how he converted a Mainline / Bachmann J72 into a LSWR G6.

     

    I think we will remember the November RM as the "British H0 edition".

     

    I have always thought of the J72 as a basis for merely a H0 J73 but the LSWR G6 looks like a more useful prototype. I have one of the current versions of the Bachmann J72 (their 2019 release) and studying it this evening it looks just as suitable for conversion to a G6 - and it has a much better chassis than the Palitoy version. The downside is the coreless motor, it needs a non-feedback controller or DCC which is quite a pain if you have a small shunting layout with only one engine in steam.

     

    - Richard.

    • Agree 2
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