Chris GH

Hi Guys Thanks for the replies. The STLs I am downloading are drawn full-size. As @Jimfin says I have set the printer correctly as per the Photon workshop documentation, so the build plate is dimensioned correctly and also the resin and print properties are set correctly The same can be said for the settings in Chitubox. As already said, the STLs are obviously too big for the printer build plate. I am scaling them using known measurements taken from line drawings and checking with the dimensions of existing models. This scaling works out at 0.66% of the original size. Chitubox scales them correctly whereas Photon workshop doesn’t. Regards Chris

Hi Thanks for the reply. I was also setting the object at an angle with supports so that may have altered the scale. But even setting the object flat on the bed didn’t make a difference. Another issue I was also getting was that I am scaling STLs drawn full size (downloaded from Thingiverse) to 1:152(2mmFine Scale). I have now switched to Chitubox which seems to set the bed dimensions correctly as a preset and every thing is scaling correctly. I haven’t checked the bed dimension of my printer but will try to set them in Anycubic Photon Workshop as it seems to be more user friendly but as they always say “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. So I will probably carry on using Chitubox as my slicer. regards Chris

Hi Guys, Thanks for the replies. I have checked the dimensions as seen on the slicer virtual bed on the laptop and they seem ok using the grid as a guide. There is a scaling button available and when I alter the scale, the dimensions change as well. As suggested I will download a copy of Chitubox and try that . Will report back soon regards Chris

Hi Guys, Am pretty new to resin printing and have a problem with a slicer possibly making a model smaller than intended. I use the RS Designspark Mechanical Cad program for design, An Anycubic Photon Mono2 Resin Printer and the Photon workshop slicer program. After designing a project and importing the STL file into the slicer program, every thing seems to be ok dimensionally, i.e. the item looks correct on the build plate. All the printer and resin parameters ( I have tried different resins) are entered as recommended and then sliced. This file is then added to the USB stick and printed on the Mono 2. The resulting print comes off the build plate smaller than needed by as much as 25% As an example : a component drawn as 13mm x 7mm with a 5mm diameter boss with a 2mm hole, comes off as 7.5mm x 5mm with a 3.5mm boss and a 1mm hole. I have read on the Anycubic wiki that over exposure can cause larger prints and that under exposure can cause smaller prints. I have tried altering the normal exposure times in the slicer and on the printer to a higher than recommended number in order to get a more accurate print without any success. Any suggestions will by much appreciated regards Chris.

I don’t think Peco code 55 rail will fit as it doesn’t have a normal shaped profile of bullhead rail in that it is basically code 80 flat bottom with a double foot to make it look finer by sitting higher in the chairs.

I model in 2mm finescale and I build all my formations on 0.25mm thick clear plastic. They come as A4 size and if the formation is bigger tha A4, I glue butt join them with a piece of clear tape for strength across the join. The track formation plan is fixed to a piece of thin ply wood and the clear sheet(s) are taped on the edges to the plan. Holes are then cut into the sheets at the appropriate positions to allow for track feeds etc.The sleepers are then glued to the plastic sheet(s) as per the plan, chairs and rail are then added as per plan. When assembly is complete, the tape holding the clear sheet(s) to the plan is cut so releasing the whole formation. Then if needed the excess clear material can be cut away leaving the formation intact. Just turn the complete unit over and solder your track feeds to the underside of the rails through the previously made holes in the clear plastic(being careful not to melt anything close) If like me you build them on the kitchen table or work bench, you can leave them attached to the board for safety . Build up all your formations on separate boards as per above and when you are ready to fit them to the layout just detach them as described and locate them on the layout as needed Hope this helps Chris

Well Done Jerry, Another gem of a publication. Being a 2mmFs/Ngauge modeller I really connected with the editorial and It was nice to see the journal featuring a lot of 2mm modelling for a change. Well Done regard Chris

Really enjoyed last night's episode. As already been stated much better than the previous one. Nice to see most of the animations worked One moment I really loved was the time when Tim (the presenter) tried to interrupt one of the sci fi team by asking if he wanted any help and he was sent packing with a scowl and the reply "Go and ask Gavin" ChrisGH

About 30 years ago I started a OO gauge layout using the original C&L sleepers and chairs. This is exactly the method I used then to construct the turnouts. The template was fixed to a piece of 4mm ply (the cheap stuff!!!)with PVA, 2 strips of 0.25mm clear plastic were fixed to the template at both ends using double sided tape, the sleepers were then glued to these 2 strips and then the chairs and rails added after.Once construction was completed the 2 lengths of clear plastic were then cut at the tapes and the completed turnout was removed .I still have some of them stored in a box just in case I decide to return to OO from my current N gauge layout. I still use this method when constructing the finescale turnouts but I now use a mixture of 2FS and Finetrax parts constructed on a templot template. Regards Chris

My copy was delivered Saturday. Nice article regarding Fencehouses Nothing else of much interest to me Regards Chris

I got my code 40 9mm gauges from an American Company called Railway Engineering they are based in Arizona (I think). It cos me about $30.00 including shipping to the UK for 4. They appear to be made of some sort of plastic but do not include provision for the spacing of check rails i.e. there is no additional slot for the check rails but the narrowest centre section is about 7 mm which would , if you butt the check rail up to the inside edge give a checkrail gap of about 1 mm. Check out the website www.railwayeng.com Regards chris

Hi Guys I am a newbie to Templot and followed the intsructions for printing my 1st template and am a bit confused by the warning message that was printed on my 1st attempt. It said that my printer (HP Envy 5424) had not been calibrated and that the template could be dimensionally incorrect. I have not altered any of the printer settings from the default 100%. I have manually measured some of the key dimensions on the printout and they seem pretty accurate so how do I ensure that future templates are accurate? Any help would be very much appreciated regards Chris GH

Hi Tony Thanks for the info on the btb measurements. Different manufacturers = different back to backs ranging from 7.25 to 7.7mm I set mine a little narrower at 7.35 mm this allows for the rim on the face of the tyres on the Farish wheels to clear the w irons and just gives enough space for the points to engage in the bearings Chris