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jwealleans last won the day on May 9 2013

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  1. Tomorrow's update.... how I made it work as well......
  2. I'd forgotten about that, thanks very much. I've just had a leisurely read. One or two things to check there. I haven't had a problem fitting the roof, but he is right about slotting the sides over the flanges on the floor when you've added the bottom hinges. I see he did what I do, solder the panelling on in the flat then bend the whole lot. Interesting to see what the other bits on the droplights were for. I cut them all off. I didn't have any problem seating the roof down with all the compartment partitions in place. I wonder whether the etch has been changed? Do yo
  3. I use OHP film and recycled Hornby/Bachmann stock box windows. It'll be the OHP film for this one for exactly that reason.
  4. I found they would suddenly stop displaying a temperature and then refuse to heat up. All 3 did exactly the same thing with no warning. The bits and the handle on the Ersa are much smaller so it's easier to work inside a model and yet there's more heat more quickly than the Antex. I can't speak highly enough of it up to now. I've had that trouble with squadron green as well - I prefer Milliput except for small quick jobs where mixing it up would take too long.
  5. It was. It was usually E667E. I built it for the version we ran on Thurston. They were all different after the LNER had finished with them but there are quite a few photos kicking about including some which show that it was still on that working after it had acquired maroon livery.
  6. I was on my third Antex TCS50 in 18 months at around £70 a pop, without even dropping any of them. At that rate the Ersa will have paid for itself in less than 5 years. Jon, I did see that Dullcote and that price. I imagine that is why they're the only people who still have any. I can wait.
  7. Not at all, Derek. I went for the ERSA Icon 1, mainly on Tony Gee's recommendation (in 'Wright Writes'). There are a few suppliers but it seems to be generally available for not much north of £300.
  8. Morning Brian, Hope you and the family are well. It was the MJT post-1930 Gresley non-corridor pattern I was after. Dart are the only supplier I know of and they show OOS. I might drop them an email and see what's not available: if it's the heads they can't get hold of and I can have the stocks then I can at least paint the underframe and add the rest later. The Romford ones are a bit generic, if they're the ones I'm thinking of.
  9. Good morning Andrew, I was looking at the Isinglass drawing of these vehicles at the weekend. There are a number of errors I've picked up on - he doesn't show either vacuum or steam heat pipes, for example - but I saw in the notes that he says that all the GC sets were declassified in 1943. Is that also in error?
  10. Morning, I haven't been in touch directly but I gather there's not been any change. There's still talk of more 4mm products but no indication of when that might be.
  11. You've prompted me, Dave, I don't think I've sent this to you. This is the production etch, yet to be lined and lettered. Dead straightforward, no problems at all to build. I'll be in the line for an orchid van and a hound van when they're available.
  12. Had another good day today. I haven't seen the inspection saloon on any of Dan's lists (or, as Mick says, on Ebay very often). Derek, this soldering station is one of the best things I've ever bought - it's made it so much quicker and easier and I'm using less solder to boot as the bits are smaller. Edit - had less of a good day when I've gone to order buffers for them - OOS almost across the board. No-one seem to have any Dullcote either. Things are clearly going downhill rapidly.
  13. What do you think we are here, the Midland?
  14. Had a good day yesterday; BT now just about complete (but not stuck together yet) and I've made a start on the CL. Here the complete underframes are being tested through pointwork to be sure I've spaced the articulation adequately. The BT. There are still some details to determine - the Isinglass drawing shows external light switches on each end, but I haven't seen them on any photos. There's a regulator box on at least the BT, maybe one on the CL as well and photos show this in different places on the underframe.
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