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H2O

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  1. H2O

    DJM, the end.

    I'd of thought the new owners (liquidators) are obliged to ensure any remaining publicity is accurate. If you look at the 'official' website you would not know anything had changed, e.g. if you were an investor and wanted to see what the company was up to (and wasn't looking on this website).
  2. H2O

    DJM, the end.

    If DJ models has gone belly up it does not seem to be reflected in the website djmodels.co.uk where you appear to be able to send money. I'd of thought by now it would say "presently suspended" or "not accepting new interest" while they sort out what may happen to what is left of the business.
  3. Hi Phil, Thanks for your excellent step by step idiot proof(?) guide. As perhaps one of those(!) could I ask if the blade rails can be slit in line with the toe end of the check rails (about 2.5 sleepers away from the nose). This would mean the built in electical connections can be kept, or would that still leave the converted 'electrofrog' point vulnerable to electrical shorts? Many thanks
  4. Perhaps a case of a pungent class 25. Seems odd there are 2,880 or so product lines available - enough to tempt anyone... 12 items per page in the 'shop' with 240 pages indicated, I tested a random selection of the pages and they all seem to have different items on them. Do many local model shops carry this many lines - no wonder they 'went out of business'! Perhaps someone could check back here when they have had a successful purchase experience. PS Website is quite slick though - perhaps other websites take note or hire the guy who set it up :-)
  5. Thanks Martin, very accurate figures. Did you assume a straight rail from the nose of the crossing? Without major surgery (and a very slim vice) I would only be able to straighten the diverging tracks beyond the end of the check rails, so perhaps 15mm away from the nose? Possibly a small change but every little helps! Figures for that mod would be welcome :-) To reduce the track spacing I realise I could just cut the diverging track back on both points, however this does not reduce the 'snake' effect as vehicles go over a crossing from one line to another and (more importantly for this idea) reduce the diverging angle from 12 degrees Peco standard to more like 10 degrees (hopefully) to better match the larger radius slips that are commercially available. The Peco slips are 12 degree to match the points and this leads to a comparatively sharp 24 inch radius curve on the slip which I'd like to avoid.
  6. Hi, Was wondering if the 2 tracks beyond the V on a Peco bullhead OO point could be straightened (perhaps in a vice after the chairs are sliced off). This would reduce the snaking of stock through a cross over and make the 6 foot more prototypical. Questions are; what would the 6 foot then be with 2 such points and what would the crossing angle become? Apart from the above it may make the point more compatible with a larger radii slip. h2o.
  7. ok, now moved to thread with questions about this product.
  8. I'm thinking building a minimum space O gauge layout / diorama using the recent Dapol releases and totting up what I might need to buy. I've used OO in the past so looking for a step up in realism. It will be to model light industrial 50s- 70s bullhead track. Although point work will be sparse (perhaps 3 or 4) I'm reluctant to invest my time in scratch building for a first effort. I have scratch built in OO, mainly to get away from the HO sleeper spacing as then (to my eye) it just about makes the 16.5mm gauge error acceptable (re-wheeling everything to EM was a step too far for me). I've been looking at options for simple O gauge point work for r-t-r stock and this seems to boil down to: RTR Peco streamline - OK price, good look but block of plastic between the rails and 2 eyelets at the toe end spoils it. RTR Peco set track - OK price, tight radius, need to cut part of the curve to generate anything like correct '6 foot', toe end better but still a compromise. Pre-built Markway - OK price but soldered construction means lacking chair detail that is difficult to add? Various plastic chaired kits - Look pricey (2x price of above?), good realism, time needed to build. Not a criticism of any of the manufacturers (they know their business) - but all of the above seem to have a compromise or two! Have I missed another kit or r-t-r point work option? I'm willing to lightly build or modify. I'm leaning toward cutting about the Peco streamline points to remove the plastic box at the toe. Has anyone done this and have a tail to tell? Are there better options for the first time modeller in 7mm? Thanks for answers. Edit for typo.
  9. I'm fairly sure there was a Railway Modeller artical way back written by CJF's son (Nick?) where he cut away some ties to bend Peco points on a Minories style layout. Presumably ok by the Peco management at the time so as close to an authorised mod as you can get? Note sure exactly what version or types of Peco pointwork were chopped.
  10. Just looked up the 'replacement' unijunction transistor but I can only find it on the Farnell website and then only as no longer stocked or no longer manufactured! :-( http://uk.farnell.com/search?st=2n6027 Looking up unijunction at Farnell gives 2n4870 and 2n4871 (as well as the obsolete 2n6027), are either of these suitable replacements? http://uk.farnell.com/search?st=unijunction
  11. Thanks for all the answers on what could go between appropriate classes of DMU driving cars Seems a bit odd those with 2 car versions of DMUs that could have 3 or 4 car formations can't sensibly* obtain those coaches. Probably supply and demand not being in favour of the supplier! * Everyone will have their own answer to what is sensible, however from the answers so far there seems to be no ready to buy item or even a kit to bash an old coach with.
  12. I have several 1st generation DMUs and was wondering what are the options for getting hold of centre cars. New items do not seem to be sold separately(?) so if you get a 2 car unit and want to expand I'm not sure what the next step is. I'm thinking 108 and 101 for now but would be interested in others in time. It looks like second hand or kit build (perhaps coach overlays) is the only way? If so what would be the items to look out for - considering there were many swaps on the real railway between classes over the years and I am ok accepting either an unusual combination or something that looks about right (i.e. modellers licence!). I'd prefer to keep the models being of a similar standard (i.e not using a 60's Triang centre car with a 2000's model).
  13. Hello all, Looking at the Piko range there seem to be some half decent industrial style 0-6-0 and BoBo diesels that could be anglicised for decent money (£300ish). Unfortunately they are set to metre gauge so would be difficult to run in a UK small industrial setting. Has anyone regauged a 'G scale' model to fit 63.5mm (2.5") track which would be near enough standard gauge for a (loosely accurate) gauge 3 model? Spacing the wheels from 45mm to 63.5mm would obviously be a bit more than sliding them out on the original axels! A new false chassis may also be needed to eliminate the big gap behind the wheels but if the minimum radius was limited to something more than the comic LGB minimum then there could be scope to do this? I wasn't thinking this would be a super accurate modelling standard but something half decent for the money to get people started in UK large scale? Thanks for any answers.
  14. I've spotted some real bargains on trade sites so proposal for a possible new topic area for any bargains people spot and a link to the website. With following 'rules': Only links to new items for sale - no links to auction sites. Duplicate entries deleted. Responses limited to indicate when out of stock and _links_ to reviews - no reviews on the page itself. Postings delete automatically after 2 weeks? What do you think?
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