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imt

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  1. Thank you, I have only just seen your information. The WTT implies continuing Perth-Aberdeen, does that sound right? Any ideas on "The Fifer" and "The Kitty"?
  2. IMHO a flagman would be absolutely fine, and quite routine for the period. If you start putting lights in (apart from operational problems) the question might the arise - why no gates across the road (I.e. isn't it a standard level crossing?). I am presuming a kind of 3 or 4 times an hour frequency - since I think some shuntimng moves will need to come across the road? This doesn't seem to be calling for anything too complicated. A colliery policeman with a flag would be fine. He could walk across from "goods inwards" with a flag as needed.
  3. You'd certainly need something - the road traffic would need protection from the railway. This might be (I am not sure) a private NCB road, but even so there are possibilities for accidents so some form of control - most ususally flagmen to stop the traffic and wave the train across - would be essential. More problems if it's a public road?
  4. Yeah that's the feller! You may think of having 2 if you intend to have controlled points and signals - an Accessory Bus. There are umpteen ways of connecting to the bus - from soldering (not something I like doing under the baseboard!) to using Molex connectors (easier when adding wiring later - they clip round the wire and save cutting into the bus) to the old fashioned but very reliable terminal strips. To save the "rats nest" which often arises you need to do 2 things - make (say) 2" holes in your baseboard supports so you can thread the wire through and PLAN where points etc. are going to be so you can put the bus breaks. If you have baseboard joins there is a special kind of terminal strip which is a plug and socket, a cheap and easy way of connections (and you should only need 4 pins - 2 for each bus). I have 3 line busses and 1 accessory bus, and I have short circuit trips in the 3 line busses so that a problem in (say) a fiddle yard does not prevent the main line from running etc. It is easy, just the same thing repeated a thousand times - I have half an Australian mountain's work of copper under my "only two wires needed" DCC layout!
  5. You use those little things called fishplates and they will hold the joints tight - some are metal (conducting) and some plastic (insulating) - you will need to gradully learn why you might need the second kind. Frankly you shouldn't need to solder joints or take out sleepers - though there is sometimes a need when joining Streamline points to normal track or odd special configurations. There you just cut off the odd sleeper, and slide it underneath again when the track is fixed down (trimmed sometimes). If you were thinking of electrical supplies, it is better to provide a feed to just about every piece of track so you are NOT relying on fishplates to provide continuity. You can buy fishplates with "dropper wires" soldered on and you just need to join those to a main feed running from your controller (if DCC) you might need some isolating switches if you use DC.
  6. You asked for opinions and you are getting them. I don't particularly agree with that statement - by all means use code 75, absolutely no reason not to. BUT much of the quality of running achieved is absolutely nothing to do with the track or the type of pointwork but more how well it is laid. You can buy track guages in order to bend flexi-track, but for a first layout maybe using Settrack curves and straights - even with Streamline points - MIGHT help you with what can be a difficult art form. I know people who can lay and ballast code 100 track so it looks superb - but it took years of practice to get there. Maybe you want a forward plan that works before your daughter's 18th birthday? I too use NCE PowerCab (much expanded now after years of use) but it's getting a bit dated, and there doesn't seem to be any development program - you may find something better (more modern/more facilities) if you look in/ask in the DCC forums. What ever you choose to do - very good luck and keep us informed.
  7. 1. Look at Woodland Scenics incline sets 2. In 00 there are various sizes (weights) of rail available. As a starter I'd stick with code 100. Peco Settrack matches with the better Streamline - better only because the range includes larger points and (e.g.) slips. 3. If you don't have stock (or not much) go DCC. It doesn't really simplify the wiring that much BUT it gives far greater control facilities (for the adults anyway!)
  8. I'm told it's not what it used to be - but then I think this layout is proving an excellent exception. Love the terraces and the the beautiful mine buildings. Not really my area - I was Morrison Busty and Charlie. Watching NCB locos at Oxhill Crossing. Them woz the days. By the bye - weyars them cables hinnee?
  9. Simple questions (perhaps hard answers). Why build this - yes its roundy roundy, but 1 roundy interferes with the other - to what purpose? There are no facilities - stations, goods sheds, loco sheds etc. etc - do you not want them? This might do for Scalextric but is it a railway? If you have restricted space - the traditional way would be a double cucuit with a crossover or two and a station/ goods yard in the middle. I'll get shouted at again - but go and buy a Peco layout plan book or something similar to look at. Plenty of people on here will help if you give your maximum sizes, whether the layout is accessible all round, whether you want a station etc.
  10. Good idea, and OhOh had already suggested that, but I heard a little resistance from the OP. I think you are right and something smaller to cut the teeth on would be better.
  11. Ah! But what were they? I wouldn't have built what you built - but Rule 1 applies - it's yours do it your way. So if you want a critique, you need to tell us what you think you got wrong. Was it the design, the emphasis on goods over passenger, too much rail/not enough. Or was it I wouldn't have used those points, the buildings could have been better (not in my opinion but it may be yours, say). We need to know to help ........
  12. How about N Gauge to rival Pendon? Seriously - I have seen layouts which run the non-scenic bit across the back of the workbench - for example, others that have put the whole lot on top of second hand/old kitchen cabinets. Like all these things its what you want or have available. Obviously if you have a pillar drill on your workbench that idea might not work! I think most of us would kill for 16' by 10' or so - it's garage size. The PROBLEM with that is over complication which results in taking too long to get anything running and hence losing interest. I had a friend like that. What we did was rework his design so he could build a station and fiddle yard with a circular track for some fun, and move on to fill in an extra station and so on in time. Even then it never got "finished" and I had the sad job of scrapping it when he passed to the great layout in the sky. MOST big layouts I know of are either created and run by clubs or by groups of friends - amny hands etc.. If you do have the time and resources to "go big" then think modular, "how can I incrementally build this" so you can maintain enthusiasm and get some FUN out of it. No fun = give up.
  13. The most popular are: O gauge 7mm foot scale. BIG but lovely. You wouldn't get much in 8' by 2'! 00 gauge 4mm foot scale. The most used(?) and better supplied "ready to run" scale and the one I think we were all talking about. N gauge 2mm foot scale. A popular but not as well supplied (maybe a matter of opinion that?) scale. You could get a roundy roundy layout in 8' by 2' (just!). I am of an age where just seeing and handling such small things is difficult. They are not particularly fragile just small. I am scrabbling for a photo I have somewhere which compares the three. Simply put your average Bo-Bo diesel is (very roughly) in 00 6.5" long 1.75" wide and 2" high. Double that for O and halve it for N (again roughly speaking). In 00 a train of a nain line loco and 4 carriages is something like 4'6" long. HTH
  14. I have just seen in another thread under this topic "A snippet of Victorian London" a link as follows http://www.carendt.com/small-layout-scrapbook/page-103-november-2010/ If you go there and then to the bottom of that page under a title "WANT TO FEATURE HIGH-SPEED LOCOS AND GLITZY EXPRESSES?" you will see a beautiful "bitsa" idea (as in bitsa station - ho, ho). As you can see there is a surprising amount of operational potential. How you organise the right hand side - the feeder siding(s) or fiddle yard - is not explained. There are plenty of ways to do it though.
  15. I would agree with that. I use DCC control throughout and their (partially) ready assembled singnals are provided with a DCC chip. Work faultlessly - but perhaps not the most beautiful representations or appropriate for all regions. HOWEVER if you are on a budget they are good for most purposes. Their GPLS are also good. I have some CR Signals GPLS which are also good - but you have to provide the DCC control separately. Mind you, if you have the money, and the patience to wait for the delivery lead times - go to Absolute Aspects, their stuff is amazing. And add the cost of DCC control. I have not used CR Signals standard colour light signals myself - but friends have used them and are very satified with them. They don't do Route Indicators, but will tailor "feathers" and PLS to your requirements.
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