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imt

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Everything posted by imt

  1. Gosh! Seeing all that wiring reminded me of why I went to DCC - just 2 wires you know! Joking apart - that is very neat, and I wish my "two wires" were half as neat. Mind you it's all about add ons, the last being block detection and interlocking. Wreaks havoc with the original wiring plans!
  2. Thanks for the heads up. I bought the book. I have a couple of his other design books but hadn't come across this one. Very good. Loved the idea of a three level micro layout with cassettes across a doorway. Now I definitely can tell people who complain that they haveny got room for a decent layout that they really have! He and Ian Futers are my design heroes - along of course with our regular contributor Harlequin of this parish.
  3. Your layout looks a lot like an early try of mine. It's a good starter - since it gives you the chance to set up and run a small sequence and shunt etc. I enjoyed mine, but of course moved on. There are a couple of things you need to look at: 1) Your fiddle yard entry/exit point will have to go to the right somewhat - you have a point overlapping your board join. 2) Where are you operating this from? If you can get to the back that's OK, but if not then loading things in/out of the fiddle yard will be a pain - reaching over the backscene. 3) "kick-back" sidings look OK, but they are a pain to shunt and operate. Maybe OK for the engine shed but not goods. 4) it's not good practice to run locos through goods sheds - and the kick-back on the lower plan would need that to be done. 5) you need to plan how/when/if you might need to shunt using the fiddle yard and make sure you have an empty line for that 6) why do you want/need an engine shed - and if you do, where's the coaling/fuel facilities? What space constraints do you have? You could make these boards your layout and just have a light extension that you join on with a fiddle yard. Or a slightly shorter scenic area with a light fiddle yard You need to think a bit about the traffic you will be running - and how you get a goods train in and split up. Passenger you have thought about, but goods? As it stands if you run a train into the loop, you can shunt back into the right hand side sidings - but how/where do you get rid of a brake van? Are you intending a "pilot" loco? What are your various sidings for - who/what do they serve, how much traffic? I could go on for hours but I won't!
  4. That looks very interesting. How do you make straight cuts in foambord. I made a layout using 5mm and had troubles with straight edges - let alone curves. Foam board is plenty robust for small layouts adn mine worked fine. A bit of Scakscenes harbour wall too. I cannot imagine getting through 10mm stff with a Stanley knife and a straighedge.
  5. There's another of PaulRHB's essays at Which I found from following links. It too is modular and fascinating.
  6. Another one of those seemingly mad and off the wall threads which turns into a goldmine of excellent ideas and links to very interesting other work. I just love RMWeb for this kind of thing. Maybe I could do that ........ ?
  7. It never fails to amaze me that wonderful solutions to extraordinary problems appear on this forum. This is/was a fantastic thread full of "cunning plans". It might even move me to think about doing a ferry. I hope th OP does have a go at mocking it up and look forward to seeing it if he does.
  8. As with all these things ---- it was on the second page!
  9. Yes but what was it FOR? Apart from showing off that is - lots of consisted locos and wagons. But it all goes in one way and comes out the same way.
  10. As al of us say on here - the ONLY DUMB QUESTION is the one you don't ask. Everybody is only too pleased to help.
  11. What precisely were you intending to do with it? I could make a few suggestions, but perhaps you should elucidate first?
  12. I have really enjoyed the gradual evolution of your layout. It looks good and "fun". But it doesn't quite work. As the Stationmaster has said, locos do not (usually, often, as a rule...?) shunt THROUGH goods sheds - fear of sparks igniting things or smoke/exhaust polluting things. So getting at your end loading dock is not ging to be easy - you'd need a set of wagons that could be pushed through the shed with the eld/cattle vans on the end of that. Might I suggest that you put a point in the loop just where the second carriage is on your "pretty plan" (or a bit to the left) and a diamond beyond the goods shed - thus the eld line crosses to the right of the goods shed. This gives a bit more shunting interest too, making sure that the crossing is clear of "parked" mileage vans as needed???? I prefer overall sheds myself as they have quite a "presence" in a station. The only other way is to make the goods shed a shed at the side of the line with a platform in front for unloading.
  13. Welcome, at least you are almost there towards getting your problem addressed. BUT, and I am sorry to do this to you but this has nothing to do with Layout Design etc. So there is a hole you have faallen in! Can I suggest you will get more attention and help if you ask the Moderators to move this to the Power and Control section under Electrics (non DCC)
  14. Same here I fear. I never thought I would be in this state, I thought I was more resilient - but I find I'm not. There is no way I am going into any crowded area until I have been vaccinated with one that is proven to work - so probably not the Russian one!
  15. A simple answer to lots of point motors - don't use them! Try using servos - cheaper and smaller and some good electronics to control them with DC/DCC around if you wish - or you can just use simple buttons/switches.
  16. By the way, haven't you got access in and out to ALL platforms - those single slips seem to do the trick?
  17. I really wouldn't recommend sawing through points! If you want those two sizes of board I would put the 700 to the left. It's difficult to see since I think your squares are feet bt dimensions in mm?
  18. One other little thing. I note 2 dotted arrows on your diagram, just in case they are direction indicators can I gently remind you that we drive on the left on railways too (usually).
  19. Yes, I thought it would be something like that. Thus I don't fancy the life chances of the main station overbridge - one clumsy "drop" or lift and its had it! Mind you I like the idea and love the little layout, I just don't think it very practical for a close fit frequently put in and out.
  20. Being thick, I cannot see how you get the boards in and out of the box in one piece - any ideas?
  21. Nigel: Well true to their word, the courier arrived at 11.05 am and this is my first VERY CRUDE attempt with 3.3k ohm through the hole resistors using your suggested method. Held in place with a crocodile clip whilst one end wrapped round the axle and then stuck to the wheel. I used Bondic, instant curing under blue light. The other end was cut back and stuck to the wheel with NO contact with the axle. To keep things secure a drop of fast acting CA was put on the resistor package where it was close to/touched the axle. I then used Bare Conductive paint and the success of that after maybe 10 mins is in the second photo. The AIU is top left and the small red smd led can just be seen. No connection to the products named - they just do what it says on the tin. Now, the result is a bit of a mess, and I will get better, it's crude but it works. I have a spare pack of metal wheels which I can practise upon. There are some problems in that the led flickers with movement - improved by cleaning the track but I obviously need to get that paint/blackening off the wheel. Iain: Thank you for your continued encouragement. I understand your method and I have seen YouTube videos showing it. My problems are physical, knobbly finger joints and damaged sight. Now I am sure that there are many with worse problems than I and who do much better. I agree that those who can would find your method easier. The second part of the delivery is 1206 size SMDs and I WILL try again. Thank you both for your help and encouragement.
  22. I have had a message from the resistor supplier apologising for the delay and saying the 3.3k in two styles will be with me by noon tomorrow. I'll start with your through the hole idea first because it seems to me to be the less open to my clumsiness. I'll have a second go at the SMD approach too but that seems more chancy. I have just had a clumsy quick swing at the task as you suggest using a 4.7k through the hole and it worked quite easily. its just held in place at the moment but it does the job with no apparent current draw. I'll keep you informed.
  23. So it's not necessarily too much paint, but probably paint in the wrong place Nigel? I was trying to put paint onto the silver pads but not below the SMD. Perhaps I moved too quickly to do it, I tried to let the paint "dry out" a little before I used it so it didn't flow too much. Presumably make sure I leave it longer next time. I have just looked at the ampmeter - 0.3 amps as soon as I put the wheelset on the track and it heats quickly. So this is a short?
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