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Crosland

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    www.sprog-dcc.co.uk

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    Warwickshire, UK
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    DCC 2mm

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  1. Not in a basic accessory packet. They are as described above. Signal aspects are controlled using the 5-bit data field in an extended accessory packet. I.e. the type of packet aleopardstail is trying to send.
  2. Just make sure it can withstand the 100W+ instantaneous power dissipation! You will not need a 100W resistor, since the startup surge is not sustained, but nor will a 1/8W carbon film jobby be suitable.
  3. Are you sure about that? Can you point to a manufacturer's data sheet/specification that shows it?
  4. It seems impossible to report misrepresentation. I can't find a category and detailed reason that works.
  5. It's very difficult to distinguish the inrush current at startup from a genuine short circuit. There are two ways to do - Use a delay and check if the current is decaying as it would in the case of capacitor inrush. The problem is, with modern switch mode power supplies, you can't wait too long as the PSU to the booster would cut out if its a genuine sustained short. - Use a current limit to force a soft start. This has issues with power dissipation in the booster. I can go into the technical details if you want.
  6. What's it like on DC? You should really only chip a loco once it runs well on DC but a good decoder can compensate for a few shortcomings. My kids's train set Thomas and Percy (really cheap ones, "Thomas" was an 0-4-0) ran really well with a DIY decoder. You might be able to, for example, tweak the Back EMF settings, to get the loco to run better on DCC. The Zimo manuals are quite comprehensive so it could be worth a try. Do try the reset first, just in case the decoder isn't as new as you think it is
  7. Even a single loco can take way over 5A, albeit for a very, very brief period. Increasing the track voltage will not help. Capacitors are not simple resistive elements and ohms law does not apply. As above, you may need to split the layout and power up in sections.
  8. It's nothing to do with cross-overs, the pairs relate to the two sides of a solenoid point motor for controlling a single turnout.
  9. The particular decoder manufacturers' advice Having said that, there will be minimal airflow in anything but the largest loco bodies. It's going to rely on convection (unless you fit air scoops and ducting!) and the decoder is probably lying flat (maybe even with components face down) and not really able to take advantage. What you must ensure is that the decoder is electrically isolated. A sleeve or a bit of kapton tape will do this.
  10. CAn't help with the extended address, but... Is there a de-activate command, or another parameter to the A command? The third bit of the sub address selects between the two outputs of the (one of four) pair selected by the 2 bit sub-address. For things like solenoid point motors this corresponds to which coil will be activated for normal/reverse, straight/diverging, on/off or however you want to describe the state of a turnout.
  11. My Windows 10 box did not update for BST this year, at least not in a sensible time before I realised and did it manually.
  12. As Nigel says, and... If you want to remove ALL of the suppression components then the inductors need to be replaced by wire links (that may be why they are labelled J, for Jumper) as they will be in series with the motor. The capacitors can just be removed.
  13. Beware that a "12V Model railway power supply" can be anything but 12V. This https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/gaugemaster-gmc-wm1.html for example, does NOT provide 12V DC in any meaningful sense. It simply rectifies the 16V AC giving half-wave rectified supply of 22V. Similarly the "12V" output of an analogue controller will almost certainly not be 12V. To "drive" LEDs you are much better off using a well regulated power supply. These days switch mode power supplies are recommended over lumps of iron (transformers).
  14. Thanks for all the comments! I was worried printing flat would make it more difficult to remove from the build plate. I tried and that was not the case. The result was OK. Slightly oversize and the letters were not so well defined. These are actually debossed, rather than embossed, as I originally said. (I learned a new word ) I also tried printing one inclined at 20 degrees with the long edge on the plate (rather than the usual few mm lift) and auto supports under the rest of it. This was a better size and the lettering was much more clearly debossed but the two corne
  15. I have finally (4 months later!) unboxed and tried out my Mars 2 Pro. Trying not to be the typical bloke I actually read the instructions and printed the test piece, which went well. My son noticed the text on this says "3d Printer Torture Piece" Thanks to Sithlord I also successfully printed from one of his LNWR .stl files. I also printed some light pipes that I eventually want to print in clear resin. Out of 4 orientations, only one was successful. And then the problems started. I want to print what is basically a flat plate about 2.5x10cm and 2mm thick. It has a few
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