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Crosland

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Everything posted by Crosland

  1. It will be cured only enough to allow the print to form in the machine. You then need to cure prints off the machine. It all depends how far the UV used for the final curing penetrates the partially cured resin.
  2. Ply uses the same resins as MDF. Cutting or lasering ANY material should be undertaken with knowledge and understanding of what you are doing
  3. This is the internet Yes, that's why I tried to list those that might be made in the UK in the hope others would have more knowledge. What's wrong with that?
  4. I'm open to suggestions on software. I have FreeCAD installed. I don't want to get hooked on Fusion 3D in case the free usage is pulled compleetly and I may want to make commercial use of it. I got the impression that blender wasn't really CAD software but quite a few seem to use it. Perhaps I should try it? I'm not sure about Sketchup (even though I have used it for other purposes) as it seems easy to end up with things that are not watertight or have internal faces that need to be removed. Any recommendations welcome.
  5. SPROGs are manufactured in the UK There are also Paul Harman's Signalist decoders, etc. CML were a UK company, but I don't know where the manufacturing was done, nor can I recall who took over the range. Megapoints, again I don't know where the manufacturing is done. Any others? It would be interesting to compile a "buy british" list. Andrew Crosland http://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk
  6. I have a reasonable idea how to use CAD software, but how do you create the models for rolling stock? Start with a solid block and cut sections out? Build it up from components? Create a half (or quarter) and mirror if the design is suitable? Does anyone have any good tutorial links relevant to railway modelling? What about more complex models such as locos?
  7. There are markings in the photo, but too indistinct to read. Given the lack of other components it has to be some kind of motor driver.
  8. It will be clearly labelled as flux or solder paste or cream. It will not necessarily list silver in the ingredients. It WILL list tin as that is the most basic component of the solder we use. If it's not lead free then the next ingredient will be Lead (i.e. traditional tin/lead solder). After that there MAY be others such as silver or bismuth which are added to change the properties (e.g. melting point). Lead free can be mainly tin or mixed with other metals such as bismuth, silver, copper, again to get the desired properties. Syringes are only used for small quantiti
  9. I don't know whether to type "go east" or try "xyzzy". Apologies if no one has a clue what I'm talking about.
  10. The information is all in the standards. At the very least you need to read NMRA S-9.1, S-9.2, S-9.2.1, S-9.2.3 and S-9.2.4. The only real confusion is when you come to accessory addressing, which leads to the "off by 4" problem when moving hardware between systems.
  11. Drop us an e-mail (see our website) and I will put one in the post, but not until Tuesday. You only actually need a two-pole. How you fit it depends on whether your booster is happier with signal+ and 0V or signal+ and signal- Andrew Crosland www.sprog-dcc.co.uk
  12. I believe it is water washable, not water soluble, although I'm not certain that makes sense. You certainly should not be washing in the sink and then letting the water go down the plughole. It is still , environmentally, nasty stuff.
  13. What's more important is the way the contacts are arranged. How many poles? How many way on each pole. E.g. 4 pole 3 way allows you to switch 4 different circuits one of three ways.
  14. Headlight going on and off on alternating speed steps is a sign that the command station and decoder do not agree on what the speed packets mean. Either setup the command station to send 14 step speed packets and reset bit 1 in CV29 to tell the decoder to interpret the speed as 14 steps. Or setup the command station to send 28 step speed packets and set bit 1 in CV29 to tell the decoder to interpret the speed as 28 steps.
  15. Thanks for the replies. I will try the Anycubic clear.
  16. I think positioning and orientation of the transmitter and receiver will be critical and need to be well controlled across the fleet and around the layout. You allude to this in the drop-off at 7" due to the offset.
  17. The problem i found with Sketchup was the conflicting advice on line that is out of data for the free version. You need to group all the objects and check that the entity info says you have a solid object. Alo look out for internal boundaries where you have combined objects. I've decided to try FreeCAD.
  18. <pedant mode> You should also have bleed resistors across each capacitor to equalize the charge (also help to discharge when the power is off) </pedant>
  19. If they know in advance (ad break during corrie xmas special, perhaps?), and have the generators spinning, Dinorwig can bring 1800 MW on line in only 16 seconds. Otherwise it takes a lengthy 75 s
  20. Some decoders do not like it the values are not monotonic, i.e., they always increase, never decrease, relative to the previous one.
  21. Anyone know of a source. As in "water clear" not coloured or translucent. I though I had found some at RS but reading the spec closer it's for laser 3D printers. I found a few references to veroclear and acura60 but mostly from people like shapeways rather than resin suppliers. I want to try printing light pipes for LEDs.
  22. Play it like drum and use a spectrum analyzer app on a 'phone to check for the correct resonance between 275 - 350 Hz. Apparently it's a must I'm not taking it too seriously, unless...
  23. DCC is differential and each rail switches alternately between 0 and +ve supply. SO when one is 12V the other is zero, and vice-versa. You need a H-bridge output stage to drive the two rails.
  24. No separate drivers are required for a SPROG with Windows 10. It uses Windows own built in USB serial driver. This was Microsoft being kind to users in that you no longer need to disable driver signing. The downside is they do not interrogate the device correctly so it appears in the device manager as a USB serial, rather than a SPROG. I don't know why you think you would sense the voltage. It's only 12 or 15V. Maybe if you lick the track but I would not recommend it A voltmeter may not give a true reading. Set it to the AC scale. If it reads a little lower that 12 or
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