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Jintyman

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Posts posted by Jintyman

  1. On 11/10/2020 at 21:11, Dmudriver said:

    Hi all.

     

    I've done the video of the parcels formation.  It looks like there were a few enthusiasts about to record this first working, so I've combined 6 of their videos.  There's no commentary - it's just the unit coming through the country into platform 1 and, after a quick turn round, going back to Moreton.  Time - just under 4 minutes.

     

    Housekeeping note:  I apologise for the flashing markers on the 130.  The regular flashing is due to filming LEDs on a digital camera -- though how that happens, I don't understand!!

     

    The longer sections of lights out are due to ... I don't know what:  I'm still trying to fathom that out.  Not pickups or dirty track - I've sorted that.  And it's only when the white lights are showing (coming into the station).   I'll explain when I find out the cause.

     

    Enjoy!

     

     

    Rod

     

     

    Hi Rod,

     

    A lovely Parcels train, unusual , but prototypical and interesting.

    I also like the scenics you've been doing, it's all making WKT that much more interesting.

     

    As for the flashing LED's on video/film, I would suspect that the FPS of the camera is not in sync with the FPS of the LED. 

    From what I've read elsewhere, LED's flicker (too fast for the human eye to detect) and obviously the camera takes video at a set FPS rate (frames per second), this gives a flickering effect for LED's if the two rates are not in sync.

    At least that's how I read it.

     

    Regards

    Jinty ;)

    • Agree 1
  2. Here we have Heljan class 33, as pre-TOPS 6529 in BR Banger Blue.
    Fitted with a Zimo MX696KS sound decoder and loaded with a Paul Chetter sound project with Active Braking and Speed Lock. This is all through two 3w 4ohm speakers wired in series and a Gold Cap stay alive.
    Railtec custom numbering and weathered as a pretty dirty 'in service' loco.

     

     

    JWB416.jpg.f9f6dbd90ef7d262f6af05868b57c2b3.jpg

     

     

    JWB417.jpg.0ded92676cc0a908cca0260cacd77bde.jpg

     

     

    JWB418.jpg.18263bfdb3b5caed3069d6e7f1653708.jpg

     

     

    JWB419.jpg.cb9bee3771cc5725cdba32d8cdf0c626.jpg

     

     

     

    Regards all

    Jinty ;)

    • Like 7
    • Agree 1
    • Craftsmanship/clever 11
  3. A bit of a change.

    Heljan Class 128 DPU in BR Blue, number M55995 as she was in the early 80's with headcode boxes removed and marker lights put in place, Corridor connections lasted with the marker lights till 1980, and then were plated over.
    This one is sound fitted with a ZIMO MX644D, a large bass reflex speaker and a decent Gold Cap stay alive.
    She has been weathered as an 'in-service' unit.

     

     

    JWB404.jpg.c383953fcd36c6fa989ea02cec21df0c.jpg

     

     

    JWB407.jpg.fa18438771f5f2a556e3dac4c1cca47a.jpg

     

     

     

     

    And the other EWS 08 that I've just finished. Same spec as the one above, just a bit more fading of the bodyside and lettering.

    Here she is then, 08389.

     

     

     

    JWB409.jpg.b1d13a95f4e326c61fb7451b6f641550.jpg

     

     

     

    Jinty ;)

     

     

    JWB411.jpg.e4b3f0b047cb8ad01192d3c14db4dd0d.jpg

     

     

    JWB414.jpg.f6320dd652f7a531bffbc7f705b2f5c4.jpg

     

     

    • Like 4
    • Craftsmanship/clever 13
  4. 5 hours ago, pwr said:

    I got mine from Rails but I wanted a gangwayed version which have all gone now - not surprised at that price

     

    Paul R

     

    I was going to do this one as a Gangwayed one as she had the headcode boxes removed and marker lights fitted but retained her gangways for a good while.

    I wasn't too sure about it. 

     

     

    20200707_113703.jpg.3fcf32114023b2bb17a15552af4ea486.jpg

     

    I'm still pondering.........

     

    Jinty  <_<

    • Like 1
    • Craftsmanship/clever 3
  5. 9 minutes ago, Andrew P said:

    Great Video Jints, and I think you'll find the odd 33 also got along the North Wales Coast line as well, possibly to Llandudno Junction, but I may have just dreamt that up.:D

     

    The 33's had a regular Cardiff - Llandudno turn. I think they were 33/2's with the high level jumpers. At least I've seen a few pictures of those in N. Wales.

     

    Jinty <_<

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  6. The Gronks are out in force lately.

    Here is an EWS version, numbered as 08630 and wipers by Giles fitted front and back, Horn by DJ Parkins fitted instead of the whistle and more chunky vacuum pipes fitted rather than the anemic Dapol ones. Fitted with a ZIMO MX644D decoder with a Paul Chetter Activedrive sound project with both active braking, speed lock and correct lighting for this later version. Through one of my own bass reflex 3w speakers and a large capacity Gold Cap Stay Alive.

    Weathered as a slightly faded 'In service' loco. 

     

     

     

     

    JWB390.jpg.55307e563f198d243a5cb7c494a83200.jpg

     

     

    JWB391.jpg.0e06d1b9590aefb7b99ac696b98567f8.jpg

     

     

    JWB393.jpg.bc2e8238120f0a1f3e7b36d21db398f3.jpg

     

     

    JWB394.jpg.011106f8edfc4ff5d6768ad162d3b614.jpg

     

     

     

    More soon

    Jinty;)

    • Like 9
    • Craftsmanship/clever 10
  7. Hi Peter,

     

    Nice to see your layout coming on and stock increasing.

    As far as the rotating fan is concerned, I've never been able to get it to behave successfully.

    I've tried it in a few locos, but after a 'very' short while it hums and squeals sometimes. I've heard some tell of using a very large resistor to reduce the speed, but I can't honestly say I've had any luck at all!!! What I'm not saying is, that it can't be done, it's just my personal stance on it.

     

    Regards

    Jinty ;)

  8. 11 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

    Marvellous stuff as usual. What have you chopped/cut on those vans?

     

    Well chopped was probably a bit of an exaggeration in the literal form. I cut and fitted the end plating on the Dutch one, and I cut, bent and soldered the extra pipework on the Black/Yellow van.

    It was just a flippant term to 'chop' them around into something different to what they were. Probably harking back a little to the motor trade which I've been in for a long time.

     

    Jinty ;)

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  9. 26 minutes ago, brossard said:

    Hi David, I was just perusing this thread and being most impressed with your results.  Have you documented your methods somewhere?  I did go through several pages from the beginning and didn't see anything.

     

    I was looking at the pillbox brake and thinking, how does he do those rust spots?  I have rust powder but I suspect your method may be more involved.  I have that very van which looks pretty good to my eyes and I thought I'd have a go at rusty areas.

     

    When you say "washes", are these enamel?  I've tried that and find that enamel thinners can attack even acrylic paint.

     

    Thanks for all the wonderful locos and rolling stock.

     

    John

     

     

    Hi John,

     

    Once painted and transfers sealed, I use numerous AK Interactive and Ammo MIG products to bring definition to the various parts.

    I'm not an Acrylics man, never have been and never will, too long in the tooth to change my ways. I paint with both enamel and celly paints and use a celly anti bloom thinners right across the board.

    As above I use an AK enamel wash all over the body, leaving it to dry for various lengths of time, sometimes even a week. This is then removed with cotton buds dipped in white spirit and gently removing 90% of what was put on, leaving the build up in the corners, etc. once this is done, I then use panel liners and filters until I get what I'm trying to achieve (It doesn't always go to plan).

    Once the treatments are done with, I use either Pinnacle or AK powders dabbed with a small brush in the areas where I'd like rusty elements to show. Don't worry if you put too much on, the next stage can usually put that right.

    The next stage is a self mixed enamel frame dirt, again with celly thinners through the airbrush, this reduces the amount of rust powder showing by blowing some of it away, or simply partially covering it. After the frame dirt comes matt black, again enamel or celly to dust the roof and pick out the darker areas (Airbrush accounts for around 10% of the whole process).

     

    Once this is done, I then visit with more powders (sometimes whilst it is still tacky) to define the tred areas, and then with other AK products such as grease stains, fuel/oil stains where it would be required and if splashed water, etc is to be replicated, AK do a product called 'Wet Effects Fluid' which is really good and leaves a nice sheen to the areas it is applied.

     

    I'm sure I've missed something, but that is about as detailed as I can make it.

    White spirit has a nice effect of dulling both Dapol and Heljan paintwork, a happy side effect for weathering.

     

    I tend to purchase all the products above from here: https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/

    No attachment, just a happy customer.

     

    Regards all

    Jinty ;)

    • Thanks 1
    • Informative/Useful 10
  10. 4 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

    Many thanks. I often flatten the finish with super fine wet and dry first but yes, a wash and then removal does get that dull metal sheen usually.

     

    Good to confirm as havent managed to see these in the flesh and dont generally like to buy blind.

     

    Sorry Ian,

     

    I should of read through fully. On Rod's 14xx after the dulling with the removal of the wash, I then used some Mer (car polish) to bring a more satin sheen to the tank sides and parts of the boiler as they were too dull in my mind for a supposedly preserved loco.

     

    Hope that helps

    Jinty ;)

    • Thanks 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  11. On 07/06/2020 at 10:26, Hal Nail said:

    Jinty,

     

    I've seen a few photos around of the 14xx you did for the West Kirby branch. Can I ask is that still the Dapol green? Seems quite rich and less "plastic" than BR green can often appear so wondered what you did to it please?

     

    Your battered autocoach is marvellous and is tempting me to do a conversion to a 70 footer. Not really appropriate for my late 50s era but these older ones do look particularly good weathered.

     

    Thanks

    Ian

     

     

    Hi Ian,

     

    I washed the paintwork all over with an AK Interactive enamel wash, let dry overnight and then removed 95% of it with white spirit and a cotton bud.

    Yes it is the Dapol factory finish.

    Most of the manufacturers factory finishes become dull with the washes and the white spirit.

     

    Regards

    Jinty <_<

    • Informative/Useful 2
  12. The best stuff to remove windows outwards and headcode box glasses with ease without damaging them is Black Tack. It's like blue tack but a lot stronger, it's used for posing or camera setting in photography.

    20's are a pain, but Black Tack does pop it out easily.

     

    Jinty ;)

    • Thanks 1
  13. 8 hours ago, P.C.M said:

    Hi David, some more cracking stock.

    37425 is my favorite. I am doing 37423 but having trouble finding nameplates. Also do you varnish the body before adding the transfers? I ask because the Heljan finish does have a gloss finish. 

    Cheers Peter.

     

    Hi Peter,

     

    Thanks for the kind comments.

    I fit the transfers straight to the Heljan factory finish body. I then brush Johnsons Floor wax (The new Klear) over the top and after a couple of coats the transfer is protected.

    Then on with the weathering after it's dried for a day or two.

     

    Regards

    David ;)

    • Thanks 1
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