jazz

The LNWR 19" goods loco is now ready for delivery. The next one on the bench is the LNWR Prince of Wales Class. Again finished in the early condition. At least this one will not be such a challenge as it's very similar to the 19" class.

This is certainly not a POW. As David said, it's a 19" goods loco.

Well it's been a long build this time. Had quite a few household jobs to to do amongst other things. Stilling got the coupling to the tender to do plus all the usual cleaning up and a small amount of filling to do. So hopefully I will also get the priming done tomorrow.

Between some decorating and getting the tender ready for priming, it's been a bit hectic. I have the coupling to the loco to sort out when I have built the loco.

Finally got the priming completed on the Collet Goods. Not straight forward when completing a kit some one else had started. The next on the bench is a LNER "Prince of Wales" 4-6-0. This should be a lot easier to complete.

I'm afraid I do not have the instructions. I always send the instructions back to the guy I'm building them for. I rarely build locos for myself these days, I've run out of space for them now.

Steve Fay is right on the mark there.

That's the loco almost done and ready for priming. The tender will need sorting out next.

I've been tackling a Javelin Collet Goods. This has been started and abandoned and I'm sorting it out to get it finished. (It's the tender that was part built but I'm Building the loco first this time. The dummy inside valve gear leaves almost no space for pickups so I'm going to devise some for the tender that will allow quick coupling and uncoupling.

That's the Yorkshire Engine Co. loco built and ready for delivery. It did not turn out not as easy as I anticipated. Thankfully my scrap box came to the rescue a few times.

Check the wheel is sitting fully up to the shoulder on the axle end. It does not take much to make the wheel wobble. (The larger the wheel, the bigger the wobble)

Hi John. That is often a problem creating clearances on the leading drivers when the crossheads hit the coupling rod bushes. I leave the 2nd & 3rd axle bushes alone on the 45xx except for filing the bushes down to a tad over the thickness of the rods. The leading axle bushes are different. Decide just how much clearance is required. Sometimes I need to reduce the thickness of the coupling rods at the leading wheels. Also if still more clearance is required I turn the coupling rod bush round and place the washer on first then the coupling rod followed by the the bush and carefully solder it on. (Make sure the wheels centre boss will clear the coupling rod before you solder the bush in place.) That works for me. This photo is of the model I am doing that to now. Sorry it's a bit hazy, the close up setting was turned off.

That's the build competed. Tomorrow will be the big cleaning up of it and preparing for the primer. I will have look at the water filler, it's not sitting quite right. the problem is the base is meant for a flat top to a side tank not the curved top on a saddle tank. Of course I have to add the buffers as well. I had to raid my scrap boxes to replace missing parts including the actual roof.

Another day on the Mercian 0-4-0 build . Scratch building the s/box saddle was todays challenge, got there in the end. Over the hill now now and on the final straight

First off, this was a second hand kit from GOG stand at Bingley Hall. So there was some items missing, most importantly the cast s/box saddle. There was some missing delicate etches. You have to watch the spacing on the chassis spacers as there is no etched lip on them for correct positions. My advice is to use the drawing in the kit to drill brake operating holes. If you have the drawing alongside you on the build and check it all as you go you should not have a lot of problems that I found. This was an original Mercian kit, it looks like they are under a new ownership and probably been reworked ??