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  • Location
    The gods' own county (Cheshire)
  • Interests
    Southern Pacific (California's OWN railroad), Denver & Rio Grande, Maine Central; brass locos
  1. There's also Cutty Black's at the Wall end of Walmgate - cramped premises but a lot of stock, including North American oultine in "N", "H0" and "O" from Walthers, Athearn and Atlas.
  2. This might explain a problem I've had with two separate NCE D13SRJs in separate locos. After doing a factory re-set and re-addressing the units (a 1975 Lionel H0 U18B anda Blue Box Athearn) both ran away when put on the main line, even after hittingthe big red button on the handset (a Gaugemaster Prodigy).
  3. A few photographs showing some of the detail on the "home-built" KM. The sideframes don't line up correctly, as already stated, but it's for go not for show - a "layout loco" as Tony Wright would say - rather than a museum piece. The ENDO trucks are a superb piece of self-contained engineering with a small, centrally-mounted motor driving the two end axles. DCC-ing them is a PITN, however. The post in the rear and the two protrusions fore and aft of the fuel tank are to stop the bodyshell from falling down, while the large block at the back is to carry the Ka-Dee when the unit enters revenue service. I may remove the large post if the two external protrusions do the job. I'll have to fill in the gaps in the fuel tank as well, but overall I'm quite happy with the build. I'm going to fit the plow to the chassis rather than to the body shell so I can then switch between EsPee and DRGW examples.
  4. I now have a series of resin-cast sideframes to play with. Some have flush rear faces, others have projecting lugs, it's just a case of deciding which ones to use with the ENDO truxks and which will go under the Athearn U-Boat chassis and proceeding from there.
  5. A couple of shots taken at Roseville and Truckee when the motive power was still in Bloody Nose and Lark Gray. (As it should be; Armour Yellow - hack, spit, Yeugh.)
  6. Not much to report of late, as work has been interfering with railroad modelling, but the scratch-built chassis demonstrated a worrying degree of flexing so has been re-inforced with strategically(?) placed bits of plasticard. I haven't got the replacement side-frames yet (see above for why) but the scratch-built chassis will be carrying a different DRGW body - one that hasn't been detailed.
  7. There's nothing whatsoever wrong with the Yellow Peril's livery, it's the actual railroad that's the problem.
  8. One of the original Rivarossi trucks is now with a fellow club member who's going to try casting the sideframes for me; the fuel tank is now fitted but will need some fettling/filling.
  9. Sometimes it's the obvious solution that you don't see. If one of the motor brushes is still connected to the chassis then there's a path for the magic smoke to circulate through. I desoldered the lead, re-installed the sleeving and the unit runs. Once I've traced the headlight wiring I can fit a decoder.
  10. Hobby Holidays do a flux for brass and whitemetal that contains phosphoric acid; Gaugemaster do a flux for brass or you could make your own with 9-12% phshoric acid diluted with 1 or 2% isopropyl alcohol and distilled water.
  11. I have a number of brass locos, some of which have (open frame) Pittman motors. All the guides suggest isolating the brushes (easy) and motor from the chassis, which is fine except that the motors are retained by a large screw running from underneath the chassis into the bottom of the motor. I don't really want to fit can motors, so can anyone suggest an alternative - besides using silicone sealant?
  12. The ultimate method is to use a resistance soldering unit but they are very expensive. For mortals, and those with limited budgets, a proper brass flux - Carrs or Gaugemaster's - plus a flux-free solder with that iron should be adequate. As with all soldering operations, make sure that the workpiece is spotless before starting and the iron is at temperature.
  13. An alternative is the late, lamented Southern Pacific which latterly only washed lights, glass and reporting numbers on its locos. I asked Topp Trains to do a weathering job on an SD45 that spent most of its life either on the Hill or on Tehachapi, providing a couple of shots of a Tunnel Motor as an indicator of what was required and Mike duly obliged: Grot, grime and rust where the dynamic brake has toasted the paintwork. Because I couldn't find decent downward looking shots the roof isn't as well weathered as the flanks.
  14. It's not the ugliest loco ever - the current Class 70 or EMD's BL2 among diesels, or the Ferrovie Dello Stato 670 Cab-forwards are, IMO, uglier.
  15. Getting back on thread, the chassis now has a set of ENDO trucks and actually runs. I've offered it up to one of my DRGW K-Ms to see how it looks, and I'll need to shave the chassis edges down slightly and fit some vertical blocks to secure the body in place. The next major stage will be getting the side-frames cast. I'll live with the fact that the wheel spacing is wrong, since it's not intended to be a 100% accurate model. I'd need to fabricate trucks for that and don't have the knowledge/skill/tools to do so. I'll keep the other, Athearn GE mechanism for a DCC model.
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