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REC Farnborough

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  1. Following a recent exhibition where the layout was operated in relatively stygian gloom 'The Management' decided that it was time we invested in a lighting unit.. My initial suggestion of individual 'Petzl' head torches was pointedly ignored... Instead I 'won' the contract to create the new units... Okay, good practice for my own layout (should I get round to it!). A morning at one of our routine 'up' sessions oat the clubhouse saw a quick trial re 'light intensity' from the proposed lighting units (successful) so a scale(-ish) drawing produced - presuming the use of 25mm aluminium tubing and 50mm aluminium angle, supporting 'under cabinet' LED lighting strips (and hope wifey doesn't notice their disappearance ('b---y hell, the fuses must have blown' would hopefully cover it...) I decided on 50mm as the 'pelmet' to the front will hopefully prevent glare from impinging on the paying public. The operators can wear sun-glasses! Armed with the drawing, a major metal supplier was sent an request and the relevant monies (quite a lot of it...) paid. Aluminum isn't cheap any more... However, the supplies were delivered the next day, as were the lighting units courtesy of 'A...n' No excuses now - out to the work area. The 'chop saw' made short work of cutting the relevant materials to size (I'd allowed for 70cm 'head heights' above the layout and 1m long light runs, with two lines of lights in each). The upper frame was held together with M6 bolts, and wing-nuts, as the unit has to break down for transport. The upper frame is located to the vertical supports using 'hard plastic' right-angle units - to finish the main metal-work. (Reality check - because of material costs, we are only lighting two boards at present - where shunting etc occurs. However I have a 'cunning plan') Next job - attach the lighting units to the hood. The makers kindly supply strips of double-sided tape for fixing purposes. I only wish it was strong enough adhesive to support the units effectively! However, they also supply dinky little plastic clips which can be screwed in to the hoods. A job for tomorrow probably. The legs have to be attached to the boards by (inelegant) wooden spacer blocks as the baseboard frames are recessed by 50mm from the base-board edge (they didn't used to be, but various scenic additions were added after construction). The aluminium tubes are held to the blocks by more M6 bolts running into 'T-nuts' which are flush with the back of the blocks. The blocks themselves will be affixed to the baseboard frames with 'Gorilla Glue', as I am not sure that simple screws through the 9mm ply board will resist the 'turning moment' of the frame. So having cobbled a light unit into place with a temporary fix involving G-clamps (and prayer), the unit was switched on... The subsequent pool of light LOOKS a little insubstantial, and the next lighting unit will be two boards away (remember the finances..) However, my 'cunning plan' is to bolt another length of 50mm aluminium angle between the two existing frames which will light the main part of the layout. If we get further invitations to exhibitions we will probably lash out and light the rest. Otherwise its back to 'Petzls' for the fiddleyard crew!
  2. A late decision to exhibit at the REC's 'Woking Show' a couple of weeks ago, was accepted as something of a challenge as our exhibition manager (bless him) couldn't accomodate the full length. We had to lose a mere 15 feet - including the current goods shed! I was landed with the task of making a small 'add-on board' - mainly so that locos could still run round their trains. Additionally it would be useful on running nights in the clubroom were it is not possible to erect the full layout anyway as it blocked the fire exits! The unusual shape of the new board allows the more 'corpulent' group members (including me!) to pass around the end of the layout! the boards are made of 9mm ply, located with the usual arrangement of pattern-makers dowels and M6 bolts. More importantly I realised early-on that we could still have a goods facility on the foreshortened board. So on with the goods shed itself. The building is based on the goods shed (more correctly a 'goods lock-up) based on the one at 'Burghclere' on the late-lamented DN&SR. As I'm now the possessor of an 'Emblazer' laser cutter, I thought it would be nice to laser cut the roof-trusses. They wouldn't be seen, but it was a neat exercise (and a bit of 'BS'!). Whilst I was at it I (more usefully) also laser-cut strips of 150GSM card to represent 'Duchess' (2'x1') slates. The finished building actually sits quite well on the layout and provides for much-needed traffic movement on what has become (in this form) a 'terminus to fiddlyard' layout, with the subsequent loss of about half the usual train-moves! Lastly a shot of the overall scene, showing how it relates to the main layout.
  3. The last entry was in November 2014 and ended 'right, on with the boiler house'... A little bit of history.... The boiler house is situated adjacent to the mill - as many mills found out, naked flames and flour-dust don't mix! However, neither do wooden roof-beams and stationary boiler chimneys... The result is that one cold night six months ago, the night-watchman (keeping himself warm in the boiler house) woke up to the crackling of flames above his head... He rapidly distanced himself from the flames - to the extent that he was unable to douse the blaze. The building was gutted and the stationary boiler was damaged beyond repair. As were the night watchman's job prospects... Without the steam supply the mill was virtually at a standstill - although the long-disused water-wheels supplied enough power to ward off bankruptcy. A new engine was rapidly ordered from 'GEM' and arrived as a kit of parts - - which was fortunate as it had to be built inside the (cleaned) remains of the old boilerhouse! The boilerhouse is now in the process of being re-roofed, with new rafters, laths & tiles stacked ready for laying The new engine is, of course safely ensconced inside (but you'll have to take my word for it!) Some 'fettling-in' is still required - the building (basically a simple 'box') is made from plasticard, sheathed inside & out with SE Finecasts 4mm 'English' bond, and the inner walls still show traces of soot and smoke-damage (again - trust me!) The 'old' engine will be cast-aside next to the boilerhouse - a warning to future night-watchmen!
  4. At last! Still needs a bit of 'fettling in', and the front track needs cobbling. All jobs for the next session - in Jan next year! Right - on with the boilerhouse
  5. Nice work - and it works! One of the best things is the sensr of achievement as it all ocmes together. Best of luck with this oe - and I'm sure your son will be fascinated watching it grow. Chhers Ian
  6. Finally - after 4.5 years, the mill is nearly done! I doubt the original took this long! First job for this session was to complete the last 12 window units in the rear wall. However, before the wall itself could be added, the gable end window had to be built and placed - This really was the LAST window of over 50... Next job - the mill owners house required a front door. Being (probably) the richest person in the village after the squire the door had to reflect the family's status... Then it was back to the rear roof. I'd forgotten to darken the edges of the front tile strips - a job for a felt-tip - but the strips for the rear roof were treated differently - Take the cut strips, clamp together with small 'bulldog clips' (another essential little tool!) - Using good-quality watercolour paint of a similar shade (darker is okay) - load a flat brush and - paint the edges. The clamps prevent the colour 'bleeding' on to the printed tiles - but ensure that the outer faces (front and back) are the rear face of the tile strips. The roof had previously been 'underfelted' (see last entry) and parallel guidelines drawn on it (the tiles also have a guideline for the overlap) so it was then just a case of laying the strips.... And finally, The roof was complete! Rear wall and roof added made the back MUCH better - and just to round off, here's the front! The whole building sits on a 'floor' of 2mm 'Depron' and has a good 'overlap all round. This will a) allow the whole model to be 'bedded in', and the Depron can then be scribed for a cobble , brick or slab finish. Next job is the 'boiler-house'. More on that later! Regs Ian
  7. Over a year since the last entry... Time to make some progress. The rear wall still requires 12 windows - but to be honest I needed something a little less taxing today, so I decided to tile the roof instead! This will be done using laser-printed tile strips representing a standard clay tile. I usually produce roof & wall finishes on adhesive paper - but tiles need their thickness represented so they were printed on 200 micron (160 gsm) card - about postcard thickness. This was then reduced to individual strips... In my experience, sticking them to the plasticard under-roof could be a challenge - PVA does not provide a good bond, and solvent-based adhesives ('Mekpak', 'Evostik') could a) affect the printing and b) require a very well ventilated room! The answer is simple - 'felt' the roof with more of the afore-said adhesive paper, then attach the tile strips with thin PVA... Each strip carries a guideline' to assist in the overlap. The lowest tiles are of course a double-thickness layer, offset a half-tile. So after nine hours work,- The front roof is about half done! Guess whats on the agenda for tomorrow (and Friday)! Regards Ian
  8. Over on my other (scanman) blog, I've detailed why I've not been actively modelling for a few months. Back to the fold ow, with several projects vieing for my time - so to prioritise... The GPV is needed for the 'Langley O Gauge' show in October where 'Netherley' is being exhibited. When I stopped modelling the van was pretty complete - just needed painting all-over black. Then I noticed that the rivetted strips were missing from the roof! Not any more! A fairly short job, using the flame torch and the RSU. Just got to re-prime the roof, then gets the satin black out. Easy but quick and a morale-booster! A quick plug - if you're going to the REC exhibition at Woking next weekend, say 'Hello' - I'm the bloke walking round with 'Publicity Officer' on the name-badge! Regards Ian
  9. until

    Full list of layouts (20+) and traders (some of those 'hard to find' ones!) on the REC Web Site www.rec-farnborough.org.uk see you there?? Regs Ian
  10. Very nice work Rich - and glad that you've reached an 'accommodation' with the Regulatory Authority!
  11. I cannot think of a better reason for modelling ANY location! My dad was actually born in a flat over 'Mansers Eel & pie Shop' round the back of Beresford Square...
  12. I'll watch this with interest - my dad used to work in the Arsenal, My great-greatx3 grandad emigrated from Bristol to work in the Deptford shipyards & was one of the first shipwrights in the Royal Dockyard at Woolwich! I must have been a great disappointment to his ghost being the first of our family in 300 years NOT to work there (I became a maritime archaeologist instead....)
  13. REC Farnborough

    Hello

    Lovely 'first effort' - cannot wait to see it painted. The soldering job looks excellent - but you'll need to take a fibrelass brush to the bolection frames before soldering. Regs Ian
  14. Intrinsically card is a good modelling medium. Easily worked, several different types of adhesives work. However, for long-term usage as rolling stock with it's attendant stresses & strains, it really needs stabilizing with a good-quality shellac. Rolling stock from card is not a new idea, companies like 'Merco' & 'Hambling' (even Peco) were producing the 'When I were a Lad'. However, I have to ask - what's wrong with plasticard? Readily available in multiple forms & thicknesses - just needs good bracing to prevent warping over longer runs like coaches AND make sure that interior spaces are vented to prevent long-term damage from solvent fumes that can get trapped inside. What ever you do - have fun! Regs Ian
  15. Hi Rich - Thats certainly the set-up shown in the Russell photo dated 1937. The kit instructions state 'extra brakes' (I take it that means the single brake on the other side) was fitted in 1929 - so (hopefully) this is right for my chosen period 1925-35... Regs Ian
  16. Very nice, Julia Might even steal it for 4mm! It would also make a good 'first project' for MY Proxxon milling machine... Regs Ian
  17. NOW the doors can be blown off... Assembly of the basic body shell is very straightforward, with the slots & tabs lining up neatly & fitting well. Solebars next - a fold and detail job - but here the detailing grows a little questionable in the instructions. Things like the 'spring stops' (part 14) once folded to shape are ''fixed to the solebar - see livery details for position". The 'livery details' are of course the 'in house' drawings contained in the kit. I suppose it is possible to accurately locate them - but I actually jumped ahead in the instructions, built the underframe & positioned it - and used the axle-centres to position the stops. (I'll deal with the underfame construction later). It was then that a more serious omission came to light... "form brake ratchet (15) and locate and fix to solebar - see livery details for position". The brake ratchet is actually formed from a fairly complicated series of bends - and these are not well-detailed in the drawings. A sketch a completed ratchet is on the instructions - on the underframe page, not the page showing the solebars - so in an attempt to clarify the situation I've detailed the steps I took in the following images - and an excellent view can be seen in fig 89 in Russells 'G.W. Freight Wagons & Loads' The ratchets separated from the sheet. The ratchet folded up First bend at the bottom of the ratchet. Note that the brass is relieved for a curve - but is actually started with a 90 deg bend. NOW the bend (use a 1.6mm drill-shank) is made to bring the outside frame parallel with the ratchet. The 'return' toward the body - another curved bend (I used a 1.6mm drill shank) A Reversed bend (etched fold on the OUTSIDE) this time to bring the shank for the sole-bar fixing back to the ratchet frame. I subsequently re-inforced this with solder as reversed folds are inherently weak). Another 90 deg bend to bring the shank vertical Final bend - the tab that locates below the solebar The unit in place (note also the spring-stop previously located - I protected this with a 'bobby-clip' heatsink whilst soldering the ratchet in place with the blow-torch). Well, that's it for tonight - next installment will cover the underframe (as mentioned already part-built), compensation etc.
  18. Humphh. Need to clean my glasses (or do a modified 'RTFM') the caption in the Russell book actually states 'photographed in 1937' - so later than my chosen period - so no latches!
  19. Yes - but the problem is - when? I'm modelling 1925-35, so it would fit in with Miss Prism's comment. Trouble is, the only really definitive photo is the Russell image which is undated - but appears to be from this period as the van is fitted with 'either side' brakes - a modification which appeared about this time (I understand). I'm surprised that the GPV's wern't fitted with door latches as a matter of course. The possibilities of a door slamming shut on someone carrying a box of explosives doesn't bear thinking about - and then theres the 'metal to metal' potential for a spark... Ho hum, back to the model box! Regs Ian
  20. Taking advantage of a working session at Didcot today, I checked out their 'Cone' (GW code name for GPV's) - http://www.didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk/wagons/105781/105781.html and took my own image - She's obviously in a sorrier state now! First thing to note - this is a 'Z4' - purpose-built for the job in 1939. It has square rather than rounded corners - but also has door-latches (missing in the kit) so I then trotted off to the carriage shed where 'Iron Mink 11152 (http://www.didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk/wagons/11152/11152.html) is undergoing restoration. Note this is not a GPV variant (although the Z1's were based on this model) - BUT she also has door latches - Ahah!! The car journey home was filled with thoughts on how to make four identical latches... After several near-misses I arrived home and ran a quick check on the kit. Definitely no door-latches. THEN I checked the image of 11136 in Russell' Wagons Apendix' and guess what? The full-page, works photo in stunning detail showed - NO DOOR LATCHES! Moral of this entry - don't jump to conclusions and always check your sources! Comparing the kit to the Russell image - I can see where the design came from - and I don't have to worry about making those latches...
  21. Hmm... Good point and well made! Extracts foot from mouth! As to the other comments - God, I wish I'd been taught something useful at school! Could never find a use for French etc....!
  22. With apologies to Michael Caine... Before they can be blown off, hey have to be made! The doors are basically two flat sheets which require the ends folding down to represent the door thickness and the associated hinge-points. The rest consists of a lot of small detail which I feel in certain cases could actually best be made as part of the etching. For example, the door hinges - provided as 12 small etchings - each of which is twice the length required (I suspect that they were copied from another kit in the range). Instructions state to fix them in position and then file the extraneous half away... Easier if they'd been included as etched detail on the main door plate? Why do kit manufacturers make life so complicated? To make us think we are getting 'value for money'?? The rest of the detailing went together quite well - and I must say, with the small exception noted above, I'm very happy - so far. I'll finish on a personal note. Bending the door sides meant using small clamps - and I'm lucky to have a couple of my late dad's old tools - They are of course pipe clamps - nothing remarkable really, except those on the left were made by my late dad one lunch-time as a little lesson to some apprentices. The tool is made from only two pieces of steel, one of which is the spring-steel clip on top... Look at the construction and count the number of processes required. The other is an 'issue' clamp provided by 'the govmint'. Dad's is better - and I wish I had half the skills he had.... Regs Ian
  23. Cheers Mikkel - Rich agrees too, so that's the route to take! Mind you Rich, the wifes new hairstyle looks good! G> Of course another option is to see if 'Markit' do the relevant buffer... I'm bound to do a 'PO' at some time that will need them! Ian
  24. It's all been said above - but nice one Mikkel. How long did they last in service?? I might build a couple for 'Ambridge one day... Regs Ian
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