Jump to content

Alan Kettlewell

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,113 Excellent


Profile Information

  • Location
    North Yorkshire

Recent Profile Visitors

817 profile views
  1. Hi again, I've just sent my mate an email and asked him to contact you directly as he is a member on this forum. Hopefully he will and you can get an arrangement sorted. Cheers ... Alan
  2. Hi, Sorry I didn't get back to you about the bridge 7 drawings my architect friend has for you. He has them, it's just a matter of getting him to get in touch with you to work out how to get them to you. I believe these may be the large format drawings that draughtsmen used to do so they'll need scaling somehow to get to you. I'll keep on it for you. Cheers .. Alan
  3. Ok, will do. I'll be meeting up with him on Tuesday evening so I'll ask him how he wants to arrange to get you the drawings. Will get back to you. Cheers ... Alan
  4. My mate is a local architect and has the official drawings of this bridge (known as bridge 7) over the Swale, also he has drawings for the other smaller bridge (bridge 6) which is over Sand Beck nearer to Richmond station. I can put him in touch with you if you wish. Cheers ... Alan
  5. I'll be happy to pick you up from Darlington and take you back later if you like, save you messing around with buses. I have an interest in Richmond Station's history and live nearby. Just let me know. Cheers ... Alan
  6. HI, Great project - following with interest as I live just down the road. The curved line around the goods shed that runs through and out to the front of the station is a quirky isn't it? Here's a picture showing it if you haven't already got this one - a tank wagon is parked there front and centre. You might know this, if so, apologies for sticking my nose in - but on the photo (I collected a lot together when I was going to build this) it doesn't look like the track was inclined up to the coal drops - but instead the approach road from the bridge end dropped down below the level of the tracks. I walked round the back of there recently and the road is quite a bit lower than the rest of the ground there. However that could be quite onerous to do now and would mean cutting away some of your baseboards. Again, sorry if you know this already - great project. Cheers... Alan
  7. Having a copy of the film footage is great for your project. Nice one. I read this book (link to Amazon below). As the title suggests it's a bit more about the Catterick sub-branch but there is some very interesting info about the whole line from the North Eastern main line through to Richmond and Catterick. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Catterick-Military-Railway-Richmond-Branch/dp/B00470LQEI Worth a read if you can get hold of it. Cheers ... Alan
  8. Hi, Thanks, constructive criticism or comment is always welcome. Regarding the joining wire underneath, I had a go at making a small omega shape but it got too fiddly in the small space available. But a U shape, yes I can see that should work. When researching kit available for hand building track I was surprised at the limited range of chairs available in this scale and that a lot of 0 gauge modellers resort to a chop and cut method to make it look reasonable. However I'll have a look into Shapeways - thanks. Cheers .. Alan
  9. Yes I agree, thanks. I've since done a couple of improvements - one being to file those bolts down a bit - not a great solution but helps to rule out that as a cause, next time I'll do a better job. The other things I've done are to remove the first chair on the blade and replace it with a slider, and I soldered a very small length of wire underneath between the end of the blade and the adjoining rail. My cruel closeup shows what I mean. The tiny wire acts as a bond and provides power to the blade. I lost one or two plastic fishplates in the process through melting so I've had to stick new ones on afterwards. You can also see I've provided power to all these rails via the longer piece of brass wire soldered to the stock rail. Next time I may buy some cast brass fishplates but they're a bit expensive. The upshot is - success! Although untidy underneath it all works, there's power everywhere and importantly the resistance to movement previously encountered is now much less. A quick test with my rigged up Tortoise motor shows it moves all 4 blades across nicely - albeit with upgraded actuator wire. Thanks again for all the advice - much appreciated. Now for the second one! Cheers … Alan
  10. Hi, I came across the idea somewhere on here or the Gauge 0 Guild forum. It's just small tabs of copper clad soldered to the underside of each blade. Then they are joined using a length of stiff spring wire - guitar or piano wire. The copper clad prevents contact with the blades so there's no shorting. As you can see I put a small hole in one end for the actuator wire but other there may be other ideas. It's not too authentic looking but it works and is less obtrusive than the 'magic floating sleeper' method often used. Here's my double slip with the stretcher bar soldered on ... Cheers … Alan
  11. Hi, Thanks. It's my first too, it's not perfect and took a lot longer than a standard turnout. One more to do for my layout. Enjoy. Cheers … Alan
  12. Hi, Thank you, I did wonder about that but good to have it confirmed. Solves the power supply to the blades nicely too. Looks like another C&L order coming up and a bit of deconstruction. Cheers ... Al
  13. I've built a dozen or more turnouts and now I'm having a go at my first double slip (OMF) and need a bit of help regarding how to construct the switch blades. In my picture you can see I've made the blades separately and attached them using plastic fishplates (super-glued). The blades are only fixed ie held down by a single chair quite near the fishplate, and of course by the stretcher bar which I did later. I'm finding that as the blades are quite short, there's a lot of resistance to their ability to pivot or spring - too much for the motor actuator to overcome (I'm using Tortoise with stiffer wire). My query is, is this the best way to do the blades or is it better to leave them all in one piece and rely on springing for the movement (as I do with a standard turnout)? Or do folk manufacture some sort of pivot? Also, with the method I've used, there's the question of where to fit bonding wires for power from the stock rail. Many thanks. Cheers … Alan
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.