carlwebus

Many thanks Jason That's a great help.

Hi I just purchased a Kemilway PT1 pony truck brass etch off eBay. It came with no instructions. I've seen various references to pdfs of Kemilway instructions but have not actually found any! Being new to etched brass I'm hoping somebody will have the instructions or can point me to where I can download the relevant pdf....

Thank you Johnster (or should I say Hamlet) and frobisher. If only this chassis was like some others I have bought (J83 etc - but probably same) on which you could just unplug the chip and plug in a blanking plate! I'll look up the Wills bodyline/ Southeastern models options - 'cos it ain't going to cause me a loss of sleep - I just like making the things! To be fair to Johnnster he did say TTBOMK - which I think is internet slang for "Initialism to the best of my knowledge", indicating uncertainty in spite of having some knowledge on the subject. Returning to the "what wires to I connect together?" question , the wires shown in the picture I submitted connect like this: * white, purple, green and yellow : don't connect to anything : they are just cut off under the grey tape * grey wire comes from the bottom of the motor where it looks like its connected to the chassis (and presumabley from there to the lower motor feed)? * red wire is connected to the wheel pickups on the left side of the chassis * orange wire is connected to the top of the motor (presumably to the top motor feed *black wire, strangely, is connected to the wheel pickups on the right of the chassis - but not to anything else as it just ends in space! From that I am thinking that, perhaps, my original thought of grey to black and red to orange was correct?

Hi All Some time ago I bought off eBay a second hand red Hornby LMS Jinty 0-6-0T No.7414 - sold as taken from the Hornby Night Mail set and with the statement that it was DCC fitted with a chip that would, however, function on non-DCC track. I double checked and it seemed that the latest DCC as fitted to this model, would run DCC or analogue. The loco will run on my non-DCC rails - but only slowly and with much power on the controller. I attach a picture of the chip that is hard wired into the loco. 1) Can someone confirm that the chip is DCC (or that it is not)? 2) I propose to cut the chip off and reconnect the wiring without it. I think it will be grey to black and orange to red. Is that correct? 3) Can anybody suggest a kit, resin or 3D printed body that will fit on this chassis (I already have a Midland 2441, GW 97XX, Southern E2 and LNER N7)?

Hi Can anyone help me locate the place where the attached photograph was taken? Judging by the other photos with it, it is of an Irish WT 2-6-4T. Probably No.4. The date is 10/6/78 but the caption is not readable. See scans of front and rear of the photo.

Hi Does anyone know if/ how you can remove the weight from the boiler of the Bachmann N class 2-6-0? I have separated the boiler and cab etc from the footplate and the cylindrical weight in the boiler seems loose but I cannot see any way to get it out. (Another email string had the throw-away comment "can't be removed.")

Thanks Guys. Magnificent response!

Hi All Please see my photo of what looks like a pretty powerful German loco. The photo is marked "Cologne" on the rear BUT what is the loco/ class?

Hi All Please see my photo of 14XX 0-4-2T on a two coach train approaching a junction. It must be somewhere out west as the loco was shedded Taunton and Exeter for much of its later life (and now sits in Tiverton Museum as "The Tivvy Bumper".. BUT what is the location in the pic?

Thanks Guys. That's most helpful. Mike: it will move on DC but very sluggish. In any event, sometime ago I asked Hornby what the phrase "DCC fitted, analogue compatible" meant. They said "You cannot use a digital locomotive on analogue track and vice versa. The model you have mentioned is now 18 years old and as such if it has been fitted with DCC it will have been hardwired, but if this has been done it will not be compatible with analogue".

Hi All I just bought the Hornby (I think Railroad) Jinty in LMS red running number 7414. I think its R1144 taken from a freight set. Having googled the thing before I bought it second hand I was expecting it to be analogue (or at worst the standard 4 pin decoder that I could easlily replace with the standard 4 pin blanking plate. Having taken the body off it seems that it is wired to a DCC decoder - and not via the 4 pin connectors I had expected. Possibly someone else has done this to convert from analogue to DCC (as there is a lot of insulating tape wrapped round things). I want to convert it to analogue running but need a bit of advice re the connections. I attach two photos of the wiring. It seems to me that the red and the black wires are connected directly to the pick ups (one for each side - one being live and the other the return side) and the body / motor is directly connected to the grey and the orange wires. (The green, yellow, white and purple wires do nowhere). If it just picked up on one side I could easily work out what to connect to what but the way it is I'm not at all sure! So the question is: which wires should I connect to convert to analogue running? Help!

Hi All. I know there's always much debate about whether DCC fitted locos can/ should be run on analogue but the general opinion is that its best not to run a DCC fitted loco on analogue. Even those who say you can do so add provisos about the type of controller, Relco, pulse etc. But, having noticed that DCC fitted locos often cost less (on eBay etc) than straightforward analogue, I have begun to notice locos advertised as "DCC fitted, analogue compatible". Hattons have advised me that "in some cases, some models are completely fine to run on both as long as it says DCC fitted analogue compatible, it should run perfectly on both". Is that correct, and if so how does it work? I run DC using an old controller built for me by a long-gone friend. It is NOT feedback but does do inertia.

for a cheap and simple conversion the Golden Arrow Models resin bodies for Q and its tender are designed to fit on the Hornby 4F (and work for both the old tender d rive and the more modern loco drive. See my effort attached.

Hi All Having successfully completed Golden Arrow Models resin bodied 01 and Q kits I am now considering their LT&S 4-4-2T which I see sits on the Hornby Railroad County 4-4-0. This is an engine driven model but with the DCC blank etc in the tender body connected via a four wire strap. The tender will have to be disconnected from the loco and the wires re-connected to make the electrical c ircuit necessary to make the motor run. I have previously converted a Hornby J15 chassis (in which the loco was wired to the tender in the same way) to provide the power for a Southern R1 tank so I have disconnected this type of thing successfully before. But I'm wondering if any of you have any advice/ diagrams etc to guide the disconnection?

Thanks guys. Much appreciated!