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  1. As they have 'London Transport' and not the White roundel/bullseye they should be in tube red. Still not sure if the efe models are the correct colour but I plan eventually to get around to weathering mine - that'll cover a multitude!
  2. After 60 pints my track might wander....
  3. All (12x7 car sets) of my 1938 stock cars have diecast chassis but the bodies are plastic. It does take a bit of time to fit tenshodo motors, but the motorised cars need weighting. The sets won't run well unless you change all the other bogies and wheels to pinpoint. Plastic bodies are easy to drill for headcodes. Chassis a bit more difficult to drill for tail lights. The pics of the new models seem to have a painted centre 'light' in the headcode but the other four look clear to me. It is easy to print off different destination blinds and ts numbers. You can get decals to renumber individual cars. I'm ordering a set to compare!
  4. So they have finally announced a 4 car Northern line motorised set! Internal lighting,two motors each powering the two bogies in the DM's, nem pockets on DM's decoder sockets in DM's and space for a sugarcube speaker. Not bad for £349.99, considering the price of static sets these days. Let's hope they sell cars separately as well.
  5. if piano wire is under baseboard, simply fit a right angled crank to the wire connected to the points. The end not connected to the wire acts on the microswitch suitably mounted under baseboard next to points. Alternatively connect operating end of piano wire to the toggle of a DPDT switch.
  6. It did come in British Outline HO Lima trainsets mid to late 1970's. I Had one! Long since binned. Only real use for it would be accessories such as lighting.
  7. I had a similar problem with Tenshodo motors in my '38 ts. Check the back to back and adjust. Also add weight directly above the motor (I used some off cuts of lead flashing trimmed to fit) and check the pivot point is totally free as even the slightest tightness will cause problems. Clearance for the bogies under most tube stock is tight.
  8. C&L do Hi Ni which has higher nicklesilver content, it looks more like steel...
  9. If the actual led itself is not 'in view' sharpies work.
  10. I'm slightly surprised by the amount of bleed there, having seen several lit S stock models. Why not ask on the London underground forum. I have had problems with some (but not all) EFE 1938 stock and needed to paint the insides. Good luck.
  11. I saw a programme on telly South Devon Railway with views of both ends. You can probably find what you want on youtube typing in GWR auto trains. There are quite a few on there.
  12. I've been a bit distracted by a D.I.Y. job in the kitchen (some new shelves) but managed to get started. The domed front roof has been molded in milliput and thinned out by sanding the inside. With care, I have managed to do the rivet detail using my wife's lightbox, (I knew her crafting stuff would come in useful at some point) ! Although I have spare metro model bogies, as this model will be static I am using some old jouef HO bogies from bits box. They are the right size and with the shoebeam attached you won't see that they aren't the correct pattern. Currently can't upload photos but will do soon.
  13. It's a really long time ago, and slightly off topic but.... 'AC injection'.... What would be the effect on a coreless motor if you were to use a standard DC controller with a Relco track cleaner?
  14. L49 (Charlie)? Thanks for posting the pics and advice. I have a stock of Johns bogies and wheels and the brass pinpoint tophat bearings. Just a couple of quick questions, did you weight the chassis ? And what thickness plasticard did you use ? I was thinking of building it in thin sheet brass or possibly braced high density fibre board a, but I could use plasticard....
  15. Not meant to be unfair. Hoping it will relieve the boredom. I'm going to 'cheat' with the roof front by moulding it in either liquid plastic or using milliput.
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