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Rick-H

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  1. Forget about other power supplies, wire it as the standard Hornby turntable, as follows: Hope this helps Rick
  2. No I don't think a bridge rectifier will help. I think the problem is that the LED plus 1k resistor is causing too much voltage drop and is therefore not switching off the first transistor, hence only green LED on. What I think we need is a pnp transistor for the first stage. In effect swap tr1 position with r2 position and change tr1 to pnp type. Let me try some ideas. Rick
  3. 669cpb, Are you saying that the signal LED stays green whatsoever the position of the point, or it's green and should be red? If the first one, we have a problem. If the second option, move the input to 'E'. If the input is high or floating then green LED should light. If input low then red LED should light. It doesn't matter which side of the point you connect too, you just need the correct signal indication. I don't know the internals of the Seep switch, but assume it's a change over switch with 'F' being the common contact. So the input would see +12volts or close to zero depending on the switch position of the point. Hope it helps. Rick
  4. My pleasure. Keep the circuit in mind, it has so many uses. Rick
  5. 669cpb, The way the circuit should work is with the diode open circuit or connected to 12volts the red LED should be off and green on. Connect the diode to 0volts and they should swap i.e. green off and red on. I can not see what transistors you have used, so we may have a problem with base biasing. Please advise the transistors numbers, so I can check for you. Rick
  6. 669cpb, As promised, here is my circuit diagram. It does a lot more than you have asked, so I will go through the stages, just in case. I have shown both common anode and cathode panel LED's for you. I use the top one, ie common +12 volts, however the following circuit works with both. The next stage, diodes and TR1 act as a very high impedance input. This stops the panel LED glowing when the switch is not connected to that LED leg. You only need one diode for each point switch. This stage also works as an &Gate, so if you have say 3 points in a route that must be correctly set to clear the signal (light the green LED) then connect each point switch to a separate diode and it will work as follows: for green LED to light point A & point B & point C are high. If any input is low then the green LED will not light. This "Gate" circuit works as a switch. If any input is low transistor TR1 will not switch on. So TR2 will see 12 volts, and switch on lighting the RED signal LED. This in turn will switch off TR3, so no GREEN LED. When all inputs to the Gate are high TR1 switches on, TR2 = off and TR3 = on, so GREEN signal LED is lit. One last thing, if your signal comes with a fitted resistor in the common anode wire you do not need R5 in my circuit. However if the LED's are too bright you can add an additional resistor in R5's position. You will need to play with its value to get the brightness you want. I have given a component list, however most NPN transistors and diodes will work. In fact I source my components from defective garden solar lights. In most cases its the solar panel that fails and they are un-repairable, however they all come with a transistor, a couple of resistors and a diode. A great source. Hope this helps. Any questions please come back to me. Rick
  7. 669club, I will post a diagram tomorrow when I am on my laptop. Rick
  8. Deltanw12, Here is a picture of my wiring for point indication. As you can see I use only one LED, which lights to indicate the direction the point is set. I am also using a 15Kohm resistor to reduce the LED brightness to an acceptable level for me. I only bother fitting one point switch to a crossover. If you want the AD / BC indication all you need to do is put another LED & resistor in parallel on each leg of the switch. Don't worry about the two "A" wires, these are for signalling using the one point switch. Hope this helps. Rick
  9. I have exactly the same set up. I fitted one point switch, which I supplied the common with 0volts. Then a wire from each of the other two contacts back to the control panel. In the panel I connected a LED and a 15k resistor in series to each wire (x 2) to the +12volts. This gave me the AD and B.C. indication. If you would like a circuit diagram let me know.
  10. You do not need to change a thing. If you have point indicators wired one way and signals wired the other all you need is a simple diode / transistor interface to convert one to the other. I have used them on my layout with no problem at all. If you would like a circuit diagram please let me know.
  11. I use the grey cardboard from cornflakes package. Cut to a rectangle larger than the hole. With small holes cut out for the securing tabs and the actuation pin. Then fit it between the point and motor (can be fitted after the point is laid but before fitting the motor). No sag and takes glue for ballast very well. Rick
  12. As I live in France I have been subscribing to the electronic magazine for a number of years. Today I received an email from BRM offering a free copy of the May issue, which I already have through my subscription. Assuming that this email is a general one to all, this means that I will be paying the full 12 issue price for only 11 issues. Hopefully BRM will extend my subscription by one month before they automatically renew it! Anyone else see this as a problem? Rick
  13. Tony, Like Harold, I have a large number of PL13's fixed to Hornby point motors over the last 5 years with no problems with switching. However, I did not glue the PL13 to the motor. I thought it may give me alignment issues. What I use is the ties that the Wife gets with her freezer bags. I rap one each end of the switch around the motor housing. This secures the switch, however leaves enough slack so that the switch does not affect the motor and enables easy dismantling if required. Hope it helps Rick
  14. I am getting fed up with Pocketmags.com’s inability to provide a digital copy of BRM through a consistent medium. I admit I am still on Vista, however when I took out my subscription Vista was supported by Pocketmags and they have never told me that has changed (Customer Service?). Now it seems that only Windows 8.1 & 10 are supported. With the October issue of BRM Silverlight reader does not work at all and the new HTML 5 reader does not provide any content, so I am left with Flash reader online and a beta off-line reader, none of which will allow me to print a page. When my subscription is finished in March next year I do not intend to renew the digital subscription. A good friend of mine has a printed subscription and he will let me read his copy and should I wish to make a copy of any pages I will put them in my scanner. I do not want to go down this route, so hopefully you can do something about the problem.
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