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Everything posted by Clem

  1. Didn't the Scottish ones have them in BR days, or was it that they had kept the earlier Fowler chimneys instead of having Stanier replacements? (i'm no expert when it comes to 2Ps although I must have cabbed many of them as they joined the scrap lines in Nottingham Midland shed.) Talking of 16A, it was the first shed I bunked and that was when I was 7. To be repeated many times over the following 6 years.
  2. You mean a little bit like this? (below).. Unfortunately my available space limited me to just this. But making my own track work in the fiddle yard, has allowed me a bit more flexibility. But, if only I had 2-3 feet more in width... By the way, the double slip on the right with no track coming off is not a trap. I laid it to be able to use cassettes to bring on/take off stock from extra storage sidings underneath the layout not yet built. The cassette will bridge the line coming diagonally right to left across it and will only be present to load/unload. The (diagonal) line is the down goods/ slow which is used rather a lot. I did get a couple of the peco EM points (not used yet) out of curiosity. They are very good. I keep getting an itch to knock a hole for a tunnel in the wall on the left to make more sidings, but I wouldn't survive the fall out... Going back to your pictures Tony, your sidings display a stunning collection of locos/trains. It's only when you see them all together like this that we can see the sheer amount of work involved. We are all very lucky to have a hobby (obsession as Chris calls it ) like this.
  3. To put it in perspective, moments of reflection on decision to go EM are very rare and usually occur only at moments of diffuculty and/or self-doubt, usually when working on some project that is particularly awkward. I think most of us get that at some point.
  4. Yes that is a good dodge and it's pretty well invisible to the unknowing eye. It's one of the many things I have learned reading this thread. And yes, clearances can be a problem. I usually measure carefully the outer width of the front axle when fitted, over the crank pins and bushes, then measure the coupling rod widths, add a little extra for crankpin nuts and leeway and compare with the piston centre distance between the 2 cylinders. I have so far mostly not needed to use it but I did engineer an extra 0.5mm each side using your method on the recent WD. But then I did bring the cylinders in by probably the same amount after you tipped me off that they are slightly wide for that model. All in all that was a good result as the clearances remained the same but the cylinders looked much better. I couldn't have done it with Markits wheels but the Alan Gibson wheels I used for the WD were fortunately all very good. In defence of Alan Gibson wheels, they are much cheaper than either Markits or Ultrascale and they are mainly OK. I've not had the tyre problems with them and I haven't had one slip on the axle for many years. (tempting fate there!). It's the concentricity issue I find more worrying. You have said several times that you sometimes rue the fact that you didn't change to EM many years ago but the extra problems with such things as clearances can make fairly simple projects much more complicated, with time spent not only sorting out clearances, but also on trying to find the best solutions. Very (very!) occasionally, I admit that I do wonder whether it would have been a lot simpler to stick with OO, but it soon passes... And in any case, I'd never be able to build trackwork as good as Little Bytham, which to my mind, is so good that it could be taken for EM by anyone not in the know. At least I've sorted that wobbly tender out now. It is from a J39 proscale kit that I started probably 25 years ago. I got so far with it but I found the dimensions around the front end so far out that I gave up and ended up just finishing the tender. Shortly after, the Bachmann J39 came out and that was dimensionally so much closer to the prototype. Clem.
  5. Thanks Frank. I believe they do produce a 16 spoke, short crank throw 5'2" wheel suitable for both J39s and the GN 0-6-0s. I'll look into ordering some in as replacements for this one or to be used for the next one if I can cure this one satisfactorily with another Gibson.
  6. Hi Tony. It's hard not to agree, particularly at the moment. To be honest, I often wish ultra scale (which I've found to be very reliable) were more readily available, but they have a lead time of 6-12 months. I have a set of Romford 20mm drivers which I use when doing a chassis as a general set up test to test for height and clearance at an early stage. I have found that you seem to need a little more room between these type of wheels (including Markits) and when trying them in this case, with these frames being wider than I would like, I could get them on but they wouldn't tighten up, otherwise I'd be looking to replace them now. The other point is that you get less clearance for outside valve gear with Markits due to the slightly wider wheel and the crankpins base a little proud too. But I agree about the reliability, and they also have the added advantage that you can dismantle and reassemble much easier. It sometimes feels like I've been grizzling about wheels for the last 40 years! :-)
  7. And to add insult to injury, I've just noticed the tender has a wobble as well... (sigh!)
  8. Here's a very dark lockdown tale.... This is what I call frustrating. And I only have myself to blame. Closing in on completing a J39/1 with a Dave Bradwell chassis. It's quite an involved build and I find most of it fraught with possible pitfalls. But if it goes well, it can be a bit of a rolls royce of a chassis. It's designed for P4 really and in EM for a start it's a bit of a challenge getting the frames narrow enough using the technique in the instructions. Then there's the hornblocks. I find DB's hornblocks do work perfectly well but every time I've used them, I curse the fact that they're a bit of a nightmare to set up using the usual jig method. A dodge I've used is, for the setting up, turn them around in the horn. I did manage to it up on this chassis but retrieved it. Next you have the inside valve gear to manipulate. Again, achieved to my satisfaction. Finally the wheels added and tested for easy of motion. Motor and gearbox tested with rear wheel in... all appears OK. Finally I get to the stage of some trial running and here is the result.... As you can see, it has a distinct side to side 'waddle' (as I think Tony calls it). So is this the fault of the chassis or the springing? ..... No it's entirely my fault for not checking the concentricity of the rear wheels. grrrrr. I find nothing more annoying than to near the end of a project, only to find you have to go back a few steps. However it would have been much easier to remedy if the brakes hadn't been fitted already. As you can see (below) it's not a 5 minute chassis build and I do find it quite challenging. But then the thing you least expect comes up and bites you in the bum! Oh well. Only myself to blame!
  9. Hi Andrew, Very interesting information on the workings. A couple of points/questions. Attaching the fish vans to the 10-30pm Manchester-Marylebone - presumably that would restist the maximum speed of the express from then on? I can't remember max speed of fitted vans off hand. Second, I've seen several pictures of the fish south of Leicester with a GW 4-6-0 on it, so that didn't come as a surprise. In your period of modelling (1948-50? ), do you know if the fish trains were timed similar to later? First the Hull, then about 40mims later the Grimsby?
  10. Evening Andrew. I've seen a photo of a K3 on a fish at Lowestoft. It had set out from the main fish despatch sidings on the docks and was backing into another smaller set of sidings to add a few further fish vans on the back, behind the brake van. You could very well be right about the maximum 4 vans. I can't recall the brake van being more than a very small number of vans in front of the back of the train on the GC. I'll have a look around to see if I can find the K3 photo..... I may be gone some time.....
  11. I used to watch the daily Hull (first) and then the Grimsby fish trains every weekday evening in 1960 til about 1963 on the GC. In the vast majority of cases, the brake van had several vans behind it. I understand that this was where the main train was made up at one dock and these vans were added on at another dock/pick-up point. As the train was fully fitted, no time was wasted - or needed - shunting the train. I believe this happened at Lowestoft too.
  12. Wonderful film. Some of the hard working A2 and V2 shots... Papyrus which I saw at Carlisle Canal in 1961....The 2P on the freight at the beginning... but the final shot of Earl Marischal pulling a lovely selection of carriages behind with un-named D40 2269 giving it a push was the coup de grace! Thank you for sharing this.
  13. Been there... got the T-shirt. (too late 'Ah now I remember....' moments)
  14. Ha ha!! Come on Tony! You out-skill me by miles! :-) ... It's not skill it's what works for you. And I've seen your locos and also Tony G's engines at exhibitions and I totally agree with you. They all run beautifully. I think we all get there by our own preferences and devices.... And one thing is for certain: in the time it takes me to produce 1 loco you've done about 5. So yes, it does take more time to do sprung or compensated chassis (although I get too lazy and distracted sometimes and don't get on with things as I should). How does the saying go? .... You pays your money and makes your choice.... (is that right?)
  15. Just to add a post-script on Maygib hornblocks, Here is a K's O4 on a coal train. Scratch chassis using Maygib hornblocks, high level gearbox and mashima. This was one of my first EM conversions in 2001. I've never had a problem with the springing and it's performed faultlessly since.
  16. Yes Tony, I couldn't agree more. I think most people look for a way to get a good running chassis and stick to it when they feel they have found it. You stick by what works for you. On the Maygib hornblocks my reasoning was that if you glue and pin a skin on the inside of the chassis, there will be less likelihood of them coming adrift if they are welded on using Butatone (carefully not getting any near the inside of the guides). And where I employed that method, it has worked well. I would never contemplate glue individual hornblocks on to a brass or N/S set of frames. George must have had a foolproof method of fixing them if they were part of his main way of chassis building.
  17. That's a very good shout. I've just checked the OO ones and they are probably nearer the correct size in diameter (although they are twice as long... 2 springs for 1?). Definitely worth an experiment. Thanks Tony. I will pursue that line. I have used the maygib hornblocks on a number of locos and still have a small supply left. The down side of using them from my point of view is that I'd never trust a simple plastic-brass glue joint and where I have used them, I've skinned the whole inside of the frames with thin plasticard, screwed and glued and then welded the hornblocks plastic to plastic. But it's quite a long process and a bit of a ball-ache. Yes, that may be true but I've used this method on several locos, the first of which was built about 1989 and is now my only original P4 engine left. The others being converted to EM. The springs on that loco still work perfectly. Of course, although it employs a spring, it is not true springing as on a level surface, the hornblocks ride on the bottom of the screws which are adjusted through the top of the horn guide and only employ the springs when there is a dip or unevenness in the track. But for me, it's a simple way of getting better running. In any case, Chris Pendlenton's use of rubber sheet, although closer to true springing, will presumably be just as unreliable as the rubber deteriorates.
  18. I think I may have found my future method of (semi) springing my locos, using High Level hornblocks, a piece of 2mmx 1mm brass strip, a 14BA screw and a spring: Right. All I need now is either: a) a source for tiny springs that fit snugly over a 14BA screw, or b) The knowledge of how to make them (presumably out of 0.0013 steel guitar strings) - i.e. how to get them to retain the required shape. I have to admit to completely nicking the idea from Maygib hornblocks which however are plastic. But if this works, it will be a quick and simple way of achieving a chassis where all the driving wheels touch the rail for picking up current no matter how bad the trackwork is (within reason). It also improves the ride over point work.
  19. Yes, I've completely gone over to them too. They're not perfect - the tommy bar is fixed (I always make sure it hangs down!!) - but they are very robust and don't fall apart over the years like some of the others.
  20. Another example that it really does pay off if you work from photos. You just have to make sure it's the right loco, particularly where there are detail differences within a class. But that is what it is all about. Trying to get it as right as possible. That's why I'm in awe of so much of the work shown on this thread (and others).
  21. I agree, Andrew. I was frustrated to find that on mine, after I'd built the cab and put it in place, that I'd missed it off. I wasn't prepared to attempt to drill 4 tiny holes perfectly in line on the front of a cab already in situ. Seeing it on Michael's lovely rendition does give me a pang of regret. Being forewarned, my next one will include them. We live and learn.
  22. I knew someone would 'hi-jack' this thread eventually! Hi Frank, I hope you are well. Looking forward to seeing you and Clayton (eventually, when all this lockdown/virus episode is over).
  23. Hi Mike, Please count me in for one of the Comet* ones. It's not a loco I need particularly quickly so would be happy to be near the end of the queue and allow others whose need is greater first bite. BTW I think you've done a lovely job on it. It looks very good indeed. *Having read your reply to Andrew, I'll go with that and change to one of the Bachmann ones and do the mods myself for the Comet chassis a la Tony.
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