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Chris Higgs

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  1. Once you have the loco in motion you will soon notice if they are centered or not. Chris
  2. I'll give it a go. I have a large number of the sides so can afford to experiment. My rolling mill which does nickel silver sides a treat, failed to induce even the slightest sign of a curve in the stainless ones. Chris
  3. How did you curve the stainless roof overlay on the Baby Deltic? I have still got nowhere trying to curve my Bulleid coach overlays made of the same material. Chris
  4. Back in the day, when you had to kitbuild to do the L&B, I produced this. Never got as far as the paint job, or the chassis come to that. Perhaps they came in plain black at some point. It seems I used to be able to solder whitemetal kits, with nothing more than a 12V soldering iron run off an H&M Duette to reduce the temperature. Not sure where that skill disappeared to. If I was tempted to do something 4mm on 8mm track, I think it would be Darjeeling Himalaya. Or perhaps SAR 2' gauge Beyer-Garratts... Chris
  5. The problem with the L&B is that with Peco and Heljan weighing in, every man and his dog is modelling it now. Chris
  6. Surely windows will be too fragile in use, even if you can print them? I have a children's dolls house ruined by plastic paned windows which broke all over the place, meaning it ended up looking like a derelict ruin. A case of needing "right material, right place" (to misquote a well-known gardening program) Chris
  7. http://www.gwr.org.uk/nowagonbrakes.html is a good place to look, nice clear diagram. Go to the section on Morton Brakes. If you want to get the levers on the correct side of the wagon, the Morton one goes on the side where the rods to the brakes slope in the same direction as the rod. Chris
  8. I normally do this over a piece of scrap etch or similar to create the gap. Chris
  9. If doing it yourself, it is key when you push the axle into the wheel to do it in a way that does not damage the pinpoint. Best way is a hole in a block of metal smaller than the axle diameter, then the pressure on the axle is applied on the shoulders of the pinpoint, not on the point itself. Chris
  10. I got some coaches out and the de-powered 121 was happy pushing eight coaches on the straight and level. It would not push them around the Fleischmann train-set curves (9" radius) on my N gauge test track but when I tried pushing said coaches with my finger I could see why - the friction is incrediable. I think I begin to understand why Dapol consider it necessary to have eight wheel drive. As I don't intend to use it in such an environment it is going to be more than adequete for the maximum I have in mind, which is a 4-car Class 115 DMU. Chris
  11. Pin-point collection. No problems with the power on this one, after all it only has to pull itself. I expect all diesels would run smoother if only powering one bogie. They just wouldn't pull as much. Chris
  12. You can tell the one on ebay does not have two powered units are there would be a massive grey block in the passeneger area, but you can see right through!
  13. Only that parcels unit as far as I know. It had two driving motor brakes (DMBS) and so they put in two powered ones! Most Class 101s have a DMBS and a DMS. Class 121 chassis only can be had for just under 80 pounds at DCC supplies: https://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-114279/n-gauge-121-complete-chassis-2d-009-006.htm. I actually bought a powered Grade 1 used Class 121 for 70 from them. I am thinking of doing the same trick in 4mm and Hattons have 4mm Class 121s at £79. Chris
  14. Class 121s are standard BR long wheelbase units, so 46'6" centres and 8'6" wheelbase. Chris
  15. I did get my powered 121 back together eventaully, a lot of faff with all the wiring. In the end I discovered all I needed to do was to pull out the drive shaft from one end - which you can do without taking the body apart! And replace that bogie with one from the dummy unit. Runs better now with only one bogie powered, which is what I have seen reported for the 4mm versions too. The motor is also partially below the solebar, but is a narrower design and so the underframe detailing looks acceptable as the box to contain the motor is narrower. The bogies on the other hand are horribly wide and if it could be done, would greatly benefit from etched sideframe replacements. Chris
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