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Everything posted by Bulleidboy100

  1. Some aspects of ordering from Modelmaster are very efficient??? I ordered some nameplates on the 18th August 2021. Very quick reply emails: 18/8/2021 Order successfully received 18/8/2021 Payment accepted 18/8/2021 Order confirmed 19/8/2021 Processing in progress 03/9/2021 Order shipped. The order has still to arrive!!!!!!!!! I should add that over a number of years and orders the service has been fine.
  2. I also received an email from Hornby yesterday saying "only a few left" of Elders Fyffes and City of Leicester. Both are now showing "Out of Stock" on the Hornby site.
  3. This is R3443 - which I think is the latest Hornby Flying Scotsman - DCC Ready, with, I assume, everything in the tender - so plenty of room for decoder and speaker of choice. IMG_0747 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr
  4. N Class about to leave Wykeham shed. IMG_0918 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr
  5. I see one seller on Ebay is "hoping" to make a profit? He has both of the Hornby Dublo Merchant Navy Class at £525 each. I'm "watching" just to see if they sell.
  6. It arrived safely via Hermes today. My first Hornby Dublo loco since the 1950's. IMG_1004 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr
  7. While I agree with your comment about the TTS sound, it can be improved (slightly) by replacing the speaker with a bass enhanced one. I replaced one of mine with a round (28mm) speaker from Youchoos and it was better.
  8. That's the worry. I had a "shipment" email from Hornby on Thursday (26th) and according to the Hermes tracker they are still awaiting the parcel - I assume at the local distribution depot?
  9. Model Railways Direct have City of Leicester at £262 - that's a good price.
  10. Have just received an email from Hornby to say that M/N General Steam Navigation is in the warehouse and will be delivered in a few days. Just received a further email (5pm) saying they had arrived and available to order now - limited to 500 each model - no mention of being "sold-out" - yet!
  11. The new models that are currently in the pipeline are limited to 500 of each model. Most retailers have "sold-out" and even Hornby only have General Steam Navigation available to pre-order - Elders Fyffes in SR livery - sold out.
  12. I ordered the Collectors Club model when it was announced - and have an email from Hornby confirming the order. It is strange that it no longer shows anywhere.
  13. I suppose that is possible, but why completely remove something that had been advertised as being available later in the year. Hornby have for years been criticised for saying an item will arrive in, for example March, and it arrives in December. To me this is not a problem, as Hornby do not take payment until they are about to post the item to you. As I've told members on the Hornby Forum many times "it will arrive when it arrives" - some get quite paranoid if it's a day late. Just a few more words on the Hornby site would satisfy everyone (well most!).
  14. It might be worth a phone call to Customer Services? The Collectors Club R3837 BR Standard 2MT 78022 just disappeared. It is no longer listed anywhere - it doesn't even say "Unavailable". I ordered mine on the 10th February 2021.
  15. I think it could be stated a little clearer, for example - "Pre-order allocation sold-out" - just "Unavailable" prompts the question "why".
  16. I think given the situation at the time with Capt. Tom - the Hornby Class 66 was a one-off occurrence - they sold 3500 models in four days - an event that will probably never ever be repeated.
  17. I could not see any mention of this in previous threads, but has anyone noticed that a number of still to be released loco's in the Hornby catalogue are now showing as "Unavailable". As far as I can see the models are: R3836 Standard 2MT R3837 Standard 2MT - Hornby Collector Club Special - no longer mentioned or shown. I ordered this on announcement and have received emailed confirmation of the order. R3988 9F Evening Star - Ordered on announcement and received emailed confirmation of the order. R3991 Flying Scotsman May be the full allocation has been pre-ordered and they don't want to disappoint people?
  18. Wykeham (my layout) is a fictitious station somewhere in the Hampshire/Dorset area. The line to Portsmouth was electrified in 1937, but Southampton/Bournemouth was not until 1967. Wykeham is probably more to the west of Portsmouth, even west of Southampton. I think Rule 1 applies here.
  19. I took my 21C7 out of the box today. "That Lance Corporal Jones is a Merchant Navy Class Locomotive". Not sure about the third rail in 1942 IMG_0965 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr
  20. Hi Budgie The lamps are the Ratio SR Concrete Lamp Posts. The Southern Railway produced their concrete at Exmouth Junction Concrete Works from the 1920’s to the 1950s. They made concrete bridges, concrete platform fences, concrete sleepers, and concrete lamp posts. You will require: A pack of Ratio 454 SR Concrete Platform Lamps – this makes four double lamps. (Price £5 from Hattons – but check ebay – I bought for the same price as Hattons, but with free postage). A 4.5mm drill bit – preferably one with a flat cutting edge, but with a sharp point in the middle. A 0.05mm drill bit. A pack (20?) Multi-colour T0402 pre-soldered micro SMD LED’s – Bulb size 1mm x 0.5mm – Choose warm white. These are usually priced at about £5-£7 a pack. IMG_0734 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr This is not a difficult job but does requires a degree of patience. Start by drilling out the lamp shade, I used a Bosch drill/driver with variable speed. I had a piece of 12mm plywood in which I drilled a small (2-3mm) hole, in which I placed the lampshade – bottom up – and held it in place with a pair of pliers while I drilled. The shades do have a central “dimple” which does help in placing the “point” of the 4.5mm drill bit – with the drill turning slowly, you will see white shards of plastic curl up. The hole does not need to be deep – 2mm max. With this job done, you should have a shade which now looks like a proper lamp shade rather than a blob of white plastic. As the drill bit had a fine sharp point, it left a small “dimple” in the bottom of the hole you have just drilled. Using that as a guide, use the .05mm drill bit, drill up through the top of the lamp. I found this was a little “hit and miss” – sometimes the hole was perfectly central, another time the drill bit came out through the side – this does not matter too much as the wires from the LED are so fine a dab of paint will hide the hole. Another way of improving the centralisation of this small hole is to place a tube (metal tube – brass?) that is just long enough to cover the top of the shade, it needs to be a tight fit - and drill down from the top – if nothing else, it helps keep the plastic together when drilling. Thread the wires (two) up through the lamp shade and secure with a dab of glue – I have used all types (Superglue, PVA, Liquid Poly)– it just needs to hold the bulb in place at the bottom of the 2mm hole you drilled. The shades in real-life (see Corfe Castle Station) are opaque glass – so no need to paint, but you should paint the bulb-holder(?) – I painted mine SR Chrome Green (Precision Paints). Now attach the lamp shade to the lamp post. I used a minute spot of Superglue (Wilco – eight tubes for a £2 – may even have been £1?). Try to position the shade so that the wires can be glued along the arm of the post. Carefully glue the wires along the arm as far as the central post. When this is dry, run a bead of glue down the post – if you look very carefully you will see the very slightest indentation running down the length of the post – use that side for the wires – try to keep the wires taught while the glue sets. If building a “twin” lamp post repeat the above procedure – trying not to have the wires crossing each other too much. Hopefully, you will now have a finished lamp – a couple of coats of Railmatch Concrete paint will hide the wires running along the arms and down the post. The bulbs operate from a 12v supply with resistor to each bulb. I run the power supply through an on/off voltage regulator (dimmer switch??) – about £2 from ebay. The cost worked out at about £1.50 per lamp. Another picture: IMG_0636 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr Sorry Mods - I should have posted this elsewhere - It is a Dapol Signal thread not platform lamps.
  21. Very well deserved - Steve and Martin are a great team. I bought my boards from them and visited the shop to pick the boards up. Very friendly and helpful. They spent three days at a friends house building his custom built boards. Great result.
  22. Conclusion: Have reversed the polarity on the signal that had lantern light out - and now both lights are working. Also reverted to 6v DC 300mA power supply - this is operating both signals. All well - many thanks.
  23. I have upped the power supply to 9v DC and reversed the polarity. Both signals operating, but lantern on fiddle yard signal now "out" and platform lantern "on". I have changed the "overall" polarity, rather than the supply to each individual signal - just need to find the connection under the boards for the fiddle yard signal and reverse the polarity and I think all will be ok - may try changing PSU back to 6v. May be polarity was the problem all along - platform signal still operates when power is first applied. Thamks for the help Suzie - I'll get ther in the end.
  24. I have a Dapol Home signal at the exit of my fiddle yard. It operates perfectly on 6v DC and is switched via a DCC Cobalt iP point motor. When I switch the power on, the signal motor operates, but the arm does not move. After which it operates as it should with every movement of the point. IMG_0949 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr I also have a Dapol Platform Starter Signal mounted on the branchline platform. This operates from the same 6v power source as the fiddle yard exit signal and is switched via another Cobalt iP point motor. However, the lantern does not work, and when power is first applied, the signal actually operates, putting it out of sync with the point (easily rectified - but a nuisance). IMG_0905 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr I was interested to read Suzie's comment about the correct polarity for the lantern to work, Also the voltage for the light to work - I have both signals operating from the same 6v supply - one light works the other does not - should I up the power supply? The fiddle yard signal worked perfectly straight out of the box, the platform starter does not. It would be easy to swap the power polarity to this signal to see if the lantern then works. Another job on the "to do" list.
  25. My 21C7 arrived today from Model Railways Direct this morning - lovely looking loco - needs etched plates.
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